For anyone interested in purchasing Cattman's groupdeal on the ES Rear Trailing Arm bushing for their car, here is a link to the how-to that I've written found at Polo's site:

http://polo.lxanyc.com/2002MaximaSE/...ngArmBushings/

Hopefully it should be detailed enough. My suggestion is to read the entire how-to first before endeavoring in installing the bushings. I would also like to thank Polo for hosting the instruction for us.


steve...

 

is there an updated link for this?

 

what does that bushing do?

 

Improves handling response and suspension control a bit. Increases NVH just a touch too I assume.

 

here you go: http://www.digitalpolo.com/2002Maxim...ngArmBushings/

I don't like the idea of using torch though...

 

That's what I used for my LCA bushings Just a little propane torch, no biggie.

thanks for the link.

 

seems like thats a lot of work just for what seems a simple bushing replacement. im ordering everything i can es for my car, seems these are the only thing for the rears, is there anything else out there. might as well attack it all at once if i can.

u notice much of a difference with just these. im going from al stock bushing to all es at the same time, hopefully the mm's too but thatll prob be way b4 that, hopefully. hopefully ill get a lil needed agility.

 

There's a possibility that the B15 Sentra shares some rear bushings with the Maxima. Specifically the 2 in the lateral link and single control rod ones. I haven't had access to a Sentra to measure though.

You could try ordering the Nismo #55000-RRB50 kit and see.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...de=55000-RRB50

Here's the install & writeup from NPM
http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/...mo_suspension/

 

bump this thread a lil bit....



Does anyone here know if we can get these bushings separately from the whole bushing kit ? I already have all the ES bushings but this might actually add alot more to the "feel" of the rear. I haven't had the chance to touch the rear yet, but I got all the parts and I figure why not do it all ?

I also did all of ColdSHOs bushings but the trailing arms- doing those this week. He can tell ya all how much of a diff the bushing work made to his car.

 

I just had these done after they had been sitting in the box for months! it does increase feeling in the rear...definitely less sloppy...slightly harsher ride back there...feels as if spring rate was increased...definitely less understeer...noticeable and I wasn't even pushing it to the limit.

let me put it this away about the entire job...this would be easy if the trailing arms where removeable and you could take them to a press but they are welded to the beam...best bet it not to take off beam if you have the means of doing it on a lift and you can undo all the bolts to the beam except a few of them and the beam will hang a lot and you can rotate the beam so the trailing arms are pointing away from the body...then you have to use a torch...drill holes in them first and squeeze them with a large set of pliers to release the liquid otherwise the torch can make them spray it all over the place...also, torch the trailing arm eyes to expand them slightly...then with a huge set of pliers pull or push them out into a pan while they are still hot...that is the easy part...getting the other crap out is hard after that...

let me put it this way...job is extremely hard if you don't have proper tools, patience, help from a buddy, and persistance...but it's not as hard as many shops will claim or quote so don't let them rip you off if you have them do it...but it will take about 2-3 or 4 hours on a lift with all proper tools, good lighting, and a skilled mechanic...or about 8 hours if done on jack stand in the dark lighting of your garage with no help and minimal tools.

 

looking forward to reviewing mine.

michaelnyden, u say understeer seems to be reduced, i seem to be a lil more rear happy than id like already. but i guess ill find out shortly how everything works together.

 

sick stuff.....

 

more rear happy than you like already? you have to look at what you are doing or how you are driving...cause I find the maxima to never be to rear happy...it understeers like a pig in most cases...

try adjusting your tire pressures or adjusting your rear sway bar to stabilize the rear a bit...

the trailing arm bushings give much more feel to the rear end I find, so if you have more feel, you will be able to better interpret what the rear is doing and it has less of a chance to catch you off guard so to speak.

 

Put some stiffer rear springs in the rear and watch out for some major oversteer... thats the reason I run wider rear wheels. I will see what I can do bout SFCs this week. I never have time for anything cause I always got some Maxima in the shop needing work.

I got access to a shop, where a guy who used to work for a WRC team does welding stuff etc.

 

Feel free to use my pics and info for reference. Use DOM mild steel tubing. I have all the wall thickness and other mild steel tubing information in my SFC post but if you have any specific questions just ask me. If your getting a setup similar to mine the material shouldent cost more than 150$ and they really shouldent charge you more than 300$ in labor, So figure 375-500$ is a good estimate. I say this because different shops will give you vastly different prices. I got quotes from 300 - 1200$


BTW could a large press be used for any of the bushings? I have a buddy with a press and if I can press out the rear trailing arm bushings instead of cutting/burning them out I will be pretty happy.

 

I used dom mild steel as well...best choice...as for thickness and diameter....you should use thicker stronger for the ones that line the frame rails, and you can use thinner/smaller lighter tubing for the x bracing since it is going to be shorter and that way you can save some weight...