Hey guys, just thought I'd let you know how the max is doing since I rarely post anymore, school has been crazy lately!

Anyway, the auto tranny on my 2k2 is on its last legs of its short, sad life. I currently have 88,300km's which is about 55,000 miles. The transmission slips through every gear and at a stand still, to get the car going, it bangs into gear, jolting the car forward.

I've been using Royal Purple MaxATF synthetic oil b/c I get it dirt cheap at work, and have been using it since the car had between 40-50,000km's on it. I had tried the drop resistor mod a year ago for about 1 month but had since hooked it back to stock. I'm pretty surprised that the tranny went so soon as it has been babied its entire life, and never taken to the track.

Luckily, I was able to find a really nice dealer that is ordering me a new tranny, as well as a new MAF sensor b/c of stalling issues at start-up. I also was able to get two free 02 sensors under a tsb and a reprogrammed ecu upgrade. Thank goodness the powertrain warranty goes up to 130k or 5 years, that I bought the ASP warranty, and that I was able to find a dealer that finally is able to solve my issues.

I should have the new tranny in a week or two so I'll update everyone then.

 

Seems pretty early in the tranny's life for a complete failure.Again, seems to be the weakest link on any autotragic nissan. I just finished paying for a partial rebuild on my 93se (Valve body, 1st & 2nd clutches, seals). Anyway, I just picked up a used 2k2 auto with 58k miles, good thing I picked up the ASP thru 2008, 100k miles. Let us know how it works out.

 

Yeah I'll definetly let you guys know what Nissan gives me, as far as getting a new or rebuilt unit and any things I run into.

As far as fluid, I'm going to start using Amsoil ATF, as I do not trust Royal Purple fluid after what just happened.

 

I'm surprised that your transmission is on its last legs. Maybe its because of your driving habit? i.e. slipping the gear into Drive while your car still hasn't come to a complete stop while backing up? That could be one of the cause that your gears are slipping.

 

Geez Nathan thats not good. I beat the bejeezus out of mine and its still going strong. I did 135 runs at the track last year and a number of 1.7 60' times with the slicks and nitrous. I have had the drop resistor mod since I got it on a WOT switch along with a cooler and Mobil 1.

This year I have about a 20+ race season coming up so I hope it holds up until the lease is up.

 

Lol! You installed on a leased car? I love it . You are truly Nissan canada's worst nightmare!

 

Lucky yours died very close to the end of warranty. I had mine replaced at 36k mi. and, call me crazy, but I'm sorta hoping for the tranny to die again before 60k is up :| Yeh, as you can see, I have no faith in these trans. I'd hate to have to deal w/that out of warranty..

 

Hey, don't be too quick to replace your tranny. I spent 15yrs rebuilding them and owned a couple of trans shops and I can tell you that lots of the time, the problem you're describing is not the trans itself. The electronics on the late model cars have LOTS to do with the way the trans works......or not. If your description of the problem is accurate, it very well may NOT be the trans itself. See if you can find someone in the trans business that has a really sharp electronics guy. If they don't, keep on going. If you're in the DFW area, I can steer you to the right guy. Probably 75% of the people that come in that they they have a trans problem end up NOT needing one. Course, that doesn't stop people from "selling" you one that you don't need.

I'm especially suspicious due to the low miles. Like everyone else is saying, these trans usually last a lot longer than yours.

Best of luck to you!

 

Exactly what i was thinking,

I think its either the TCM or the Soelinoids in the valve body. Check that first. My car is a daily driver and is not exactly stock and i don't have any problems (knock on wood)

 

Good advice guys. I'll get those things checked out while I await word from my dealer.

As for my driving habits, I had babied the tranny since I got it and I always come to a complete stop before I throw her into drive. I have 2 other maxima's (4th gens, all auto) and never had tranny issues with them.

 

Very unusual for a car with that kind of mileage. I have 40k miles on the clock and no signs of tranny issues. As long as you keep your regular maintence on the car especially attention to when the Tranny fluid needs to be changed.

 

I think it's a common problem with the 02's. I have 35K on mine and just got a new transmission from nissan because mine was also slipping.

 

There are a lot of ppl on here which had the auto trans. replaced relatively early in the car's life. IMO they're weak, I also babied the trans, replaced tranny fluid at the proper interval etc. but to no avail. Btw. if you do get the trans. replaced, you better make sure the dealer will give you a loaner car. When mine was replaced, the trans. was on backorder and it took the dealer 5 weeks to get the car back to me w/the new trans.

 

my car only has 41,000 miles and it has been slipping for the past 6 months, and i am not going to lie, i rip on the trans alot. i brought it to the dealer and they said that i completely burned all the trans fluid in the trans and there was a tiny left and what was left was clear not red.

But like it was said earlier i also think the intial problem was the electronics that control the trans, B/C the trans only slipped after it was told to downshift. It wouldnt go back into first or second gear properly......never slipped during upshifting.
-J

 

MY 2k2 is at 87k and i have the 1 st to 2 nd slip from time to time how can that be fixed?

 

my 2k3 has 26000 and i am starting to feel the slip between 2 and 3rd. the tranny doesnt feel the same. gonna take it to the dealer.. i am shocked since my car only has 26000 on it.

 

Actually, the first sign that I had that there was something wrong with the tranny was the 2nd to 3rd slippage. Than it began to slip into every wear and now it sometimes doesn't want to shift at all.

Get that checked out before it becomes worse like how mine is.

 

I've always thought mine slipped from 2nd-3rd, but I'm not exactly sure what a slip is. Could you guys describe it? My tranny kinda takes 1 or 1.5 seconds to shift from 2nd to 3rd, and while it's doing it, it feels like it's trying to catch but it can't. Then of course it finally does.

 

i've inadvertently tricked my trans into slipping once or twice but so far it hasn't done it on it's own. by tricking i mean anticipating when the car is about to shift and suddenly giving more throttle than immediately before the shift. when this happens the tranny will sometimes delay engagement of any gear for a sec or two and finally lurch into gear. this probably could be replicated in any gear but why try. knowing that auto transmissions aren't that smart i usually try to give steady input during gear changes as to not confuse it. ...even if that means every now and then putting my foot to the floor and leaving it there until the smoke clears.

 

damn.. i am taking it to the dealer this week.

 

I don't know about the Max but the I30s (I believe both use the RE4F04B-standard diff or RE4F04W-limited slip diff) have a TSB on the shift solenoids.

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../ITB00-028.htm

You can check if the solenoids (5 in all) are defective yourself by measuring their resistance at the connector (located at the back-left of the trans near the shift selector linkage). Although, I'd have the dealer do this if the trans is still under warranty. Here are the values straight from a 01 infiniti service manual if you or others in the forum are interested:

Connector view (measure from the connector terminals on the trans to ground)
____[ ]_____
-------------
-[1][2][3][4]-
-[5][6][7][8]-
-------------

1) Shift valve B sol - 5 to 20 ohms
2) Shift valve A sol - 20 to 30 ohms
3) Overrun clutch sol - 20 to 30 ohms
4) Line pressure sol - 2.5 to 5 ohms
5) Torque converter sol - 5 to 20 ohms

If you apply 12 volts to pins 1-5 the corresponding solenoid should click. If it doesn't it might be defective even if the resistance is in spec. I should also mention that the valve bodies on the RE4F04B/W trans suffer from a sticking accum valve. I found this out from the instruction sheet that came with my TransGo shift kit. Hope this info helps!

 

Mine went out at 53k, started with 2-3 slip then sticking in 2nd gear at a stop (would start in 2nd then bang down into 1st and jerk the car.) Trans replaced under 5/60 with new unit, no probs since then. Fluid was nice and burnt.

Supposedly there is a TSB out now on valve body replacement which will fix this issue and not require r&r of the entire transaxle assy.

 

My symptoms are almost identical to yours. What tranny fluid were you using?

As it stands today, the tranny will not go past 2nd gear. I will be towing it to the dealer Sunday since my dealer is 35 miles away. The new tranny and MAF sensor will be going in Monday or Tuesday.

 

Dexron ATF3.
Changed at 30,000 miles.

 

It was unreal how dirty my trans fluid was in my 01 I30 with only 27k . Even after draining and refilling with new trans fluid the fluid was still dirty. Boy this nissan trans sure knows how to muck up the trans fluid.

 

Use Amsoil ATF...enough said.

 

That's exactly what I'll be using on the new tranny.

 

Quick question:

So the transmission fluid should be a translucent red color? I've checked mine once or twice since I've had the car, and it's more like a translucent brown. Would that explain my tranny's poor performance? (I suppose it could just be going bad.) My car is at 52k miles now, was at 48k when I got it in October. I keep saying I'm going to bring it to the dealer, but I'd like to try to change the obviously burnt fluid first and see if that makes any difference. Thanks.

 

Yo Natedog,

Saw your car at Dermac. LOL... My car died too.. MAF failure!! WTF..

Anyhow, last i heard your tranny is in.. GOOD LUCK MAN.. And forget swapping my 6spped for your auto!!