NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

well this thread is pretty long so hopefully I get a responds because I dont want to open a new thread ...

I recently Brought the BBK from a ChrisMax and After a Few Errrors in Shipping I finally Got the Rotors and he forgot to shipped the PADS...

anyways would you guys Choose EBC pads or Hawks ? thanks
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pe...art_brand=hawk

Maxima-Ness

Well, if I had only the two to choose from, Id do the hawks.

NISMAX03

iTrader: (4)

I installed Brembo D/S rotors after noticing vibrations when braking at high speeds. The difference was amazing even with stock brake pads.

bvenvert

You should switch up to the Ceramic pads. If you like the Brembo D/S on your Max, you will love them even more with ceramic pads. I put the Axxis Ultimate Ceramic pads on all four corners, along with the same Brembo rotors, and about 25K miles later, I still love the way my vehicle stops. The Ceramic pads create a lot less dust and dissapate heat much more easily. They help keep the heat down during normal or even heavy braking so they are less likely to warp your rotors. They are less abrasive so the rotors will wear longer and the pads will produce much lower levels of dust.

You know, they use ceramic tiles on the exterior or the space shuttle, there must be a reason!

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Let me know when you re-enter the atmosphere. j/k

MaxTooNice

iTrader: (5)

Hey, I need to replace my brake pads, and I am going to go with the axxis ultimate ceramic pads. Well I was ordering online and there are 2 separate pads for 2000 Maximas; before 10/2000 and after 10/2000. This might be a stupid question but where can I find out when it was made?

On another note, I was thinking about changing my rotors since I'm gonna do the brakes, but I'm a little tight on money and might just do that a little further down the road. I'm at 64k and haven't had any problems with them yet. Well I heard the rotors can last a long time (well on most cars), but how long can I expect them to last since I don't drive that agressively?

Any help is appreciated. thanks

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

If your brakes aren't vibrating, I wouldn't worry about changing the rotor. Having the rotors turned though it a waste of money when you can buy new for the same price.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

That's most solid piece of wisdom I've seen on the brake rotor thread yet.
ESPECIALY if you're planning on getting ripped-off at the stealer.

gr

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

A33B rotors are 295x24mm

A33 Rotors are 280x24mm

Rotors can and do warp to some degree, this is called runout. Metal can be distorted from being (unevenly) quickly heated and quickly cooled. Many shops that do brakes will check the runout with a dial guage to see if the runout is within spec. If the runout is out of spec you can feel it in the steering wheel as a shimmy.


I personally just installed a set of Hawk pads and Frozen Powerslot rotors. I got a better than normal deal on mine but this setup may be more expensive than some wish to spend. Thus far I am exremely impressed with the way this combo is working out. The Hawk pads do need to be slightly heated up to work to their potential. The first few cold stops feel like OEM brakes but after that the initial bite is awesome and they don't seem to fade at all. Even from 140-50mph stabs. These brakes actually have more than enough bite to lock the tires at those speeds if enough pedal pressure is applied. I remember the OE brakes NEVER had enough bite and too much fade to do such a thing.
However I am one of the few who managed to get my original pads and rotors to last 51k miles. I knew OE Nissan brakes couldn't stand much abuse so I treated them accordingly.
My next add ons will be goodridge SS lines and the rear Hawk pads. I have noticed that my brake bias is now more front weighted than it was before. If I get the rear Hawk pads it should restore the correct bias.


So for any of you who wish to get a great cost effective 'Sport' braking package I would highly recommend getting the Hawk,Frozen Powerslot combo with ATE blue or equivelint brake fluid.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

On modern vehicles it's just about stupid to turn/machine old brake rotors. They're really no longer manufactured with enough meat in them to do this. If they got excessive runout once they'll just go out of spec even sooner once machined down. Save yourself the hassle of being cheap and buy a nice set of rotors that you can actually depend on.

screamindman

Noela, those brembos should go right on with no problem. They are supposed to be factory size. They should work with no other modifications. Just replace the pads with something decent. I can't remember what the fifth gen rotor size is. I know someone was asking that question.

Max_Gator

I see the frozen rotors run about 100 each.

I'd like to replace my front rotors since they need to be turned again. However, I'm not sure I want to replace all 4 rotors.

It seems to me that changing just the front may cause some problems because the front will be doing more of the braking.

Also, I'm thinking of going with ceramic pads. Same question there about just changing the front.

Any thoughts?

screamindman

The raceconcepts rotors are a direct fit for whatever year that you order. I've had them for a while and they definately outperform the factory discs. I use Hawk pads, and I do not get any weird noises. I love them. For $150, you get 4 cross drilled/slotted rotors, after shipping it was $186. The pads were $120 shipped.

spiromax

The Frozen Powerslot rotors with Hawk pads combo is nice, but like SR20 said, it can get expensive. I replaced my OEM rotors and pads with RTP rotors and Axxis/PBR Ultimate pads from the group deal going on right now. You can contact Automax_95 here on Maxima.org for details on what kind of deal you can get. You can get the RTP rotors slotted or drilled, but I bought blanks. It's cheaper, and I felt that it was a better choice than the slotted or drilled options.

Cross drilling the rotors is supposed to allow for better cooling, and it is also supposed to help vent any gas buildup that occurs between the pads and rotors under heavy braking. I avoided the drilled rotors, because cross drilling CAN weaken the rotors, and that wasn't a chance that I wanted to take.

Slotting the rotors doesn't really weaken them, but slotted rotors don't offer the same rapid cooling characteristics as drilled rotors. Slotting is quite effective for venting any gas buildup between the rotors and pads under heavy braking, though. I didn't really feel like it was worth the extra money to get slotted rotors, since good pads like the Hawks or the Axxis/PBR Ultimates are able to withstand heavier braking than OEM pads, and they generally don't gas that much.

speye022

I ordered Brembo rotors (no holes, not slots) and Axxis Ultimate Ceramic Pads. The combination was recommend by my tech. They will be installed next weekend.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Where'd you order these from???

I need to replace mine soon -- tax dollars BEGGING to be spent b-4 I **** it away on worthless mods and motorcycle goodies!!!

gr

spiromax

I have the same setup as him, except my rotors are the zinc plated RTP rotors, not the Brembos.

Zinc plated RTP blanks
2002-2003 F/R - $166

Axxis Ultimate/PBR ultimate pads
2002-2003 F/R - $100

Shipping - $45

Total - $311

That's $311.00 for new rotors and pads for all four wheels, shipped to your door. I'm not sure if Automax_95 is still offering that price, but he should be able to get you some good parts at a better price than most other places.

S00NR1

iTrader: (3)

$100 for Front 2k4 rotors Rtp zinc plated
$98 for Rear brembo zinc plated slotted 2k1 rotors
$45 for Rear Ultiamte pads
$45 for shipping
your grand total is $288 shipped

That's a great deal if you ask me and the brake setup should be here on Thursday.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I dunno how many times I posted this, I acutally got quite a bit of racing in my Maxima done and I know what stops and works. OEM rotors with Hawk pads rock, if you bead them in correctly, you will not only have long lasting pads, but they will not squeal (which is caused by vibration of the pads not beaded in right) and performance will be light years ahead of the OEM pads. I have done quite a bit of HIGH speed road racing on diff tracks, I can tell you that I was on a track for 120 min at one point- 6 20 min sessions with alot of high speed braking- never have I warped my rotors. You need to understand- rotor doesn't warp that EASSY. One way you can avoid warping your rotors is throwing you POS pads into the garbage, and getting quality pads like Hawk, etc. I have gotten my car up to 125MPH on the straights and it requires a stop to bout 50MPH and then go up to around 70 and make a hard stop to bout 40 again all within a second or 2. I guarantee that OEM pads woulda made my car shake like I had just lost all my lug nuts and my wheels where just wobbln on the studs.

I'm going to say this one more time, don't waste your money on expenssive rotors, get OEM rotors and GOOD pads like Hawk HPS- only like 60 bux from TireRack. I have gotten bout 34K miles out of each set. I'm not too impressed with Axxis. IRotors for the 04 Max suck, they are too soft and tend to expand unevenly and create brake judder. Take it from someone that doesn't DRAG race, but just drives the wheels off his car day in and day out, let it be on a track, autoX or my way to work.

sipock97

I have had frozen rotors on the front for about 10k miles. I run performance friction pads and havent had a problem. My backs were fine and since the fronts get the brunt of the braking thats what I changed.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Blackbird --

I am going to take your advice on the pads - and if I can get front rotors at the stealer for $70 ea. (as Courtesy has them listed) I will likely do this as well.

Also, I'm going to leave my stock rear rotors in place, and get hawk pads back there too.
hopefully, this will solve my issues for many miles to come.

Great advice. Thank you.

gr

Y2K2Driver

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure that I'll use frozenrotors when I replace the front brakes early next month. However, I'm still undecided on the pads. From what I've read here, the Hawk, Performance Friction, and Porterfield RS4s all seem like good bets. The question is, what's best for me. I've been told that I'm hard on the brakes, but I'm not racing anyone and don't intend to. My commute is short and all highway. Can someone point me in the right direction here? Thanks

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Well - I went back to my original plan and got the Frozen Rotors instead of the OEMs.
Local dealer wanted $100 ea. for OEms, and I decided that $15 more per rotor was worth the Cryo treatment and insurance of more life on the ole' iron was a good investment.
I also got Hawk pads fr/rr to complete the set.
I hope the install is as easy as it should be -- FINALLY new brakes!!!

gr

Someting to note on these cheaper brake rotors: If you know the WEIGHT of the rotor, then you KNOW what you're buying. Our rotors should weigh something like 16-18 lbs. each. If they're lighter, they're forged with inferior materials.
Quality is in the density of the IRON in these rotors. Some of these cheaper brands that claim to be Brembos may not be.....buyer beware.