HELP!!!! car broke down
HELP!!!! car broke down
so i was driving home and i floored it. once it hit 5 rpm's i heard a loud "thump/cunk" noise and then the car just shut off. wat could be wrong? i am thinking that it is a blown maf? maybe the timing belt? and the only mod i have is an intake
will it restart ? try UNPLUGING the MAF, does it start now ? if neighter one does the trick, maybe your throttle body took a dump, or something like maybe your camshaft position sensor went bad ? Try the MAF- unplug it, if the car runs but won't go over 2400RPM, you need a new MAF, its 500 bux new.
the car is not at home but i will try that once i leave the house...any other things that i can try?
and when i try to turn the car back on...it turns on but once i turn it on the rpms start to die down and then goes to 0
and when i try to turn the car back on...it turns on but once i turn it on the rpms start to die down and then goes to 0
I blew 5 MAFs myself, on the 6th one now- I think I know what a bad MAF does. Unplug it, see if its going to run any better. It should run but not allow you to go more than 15% throttle or past 2400RPM. ECU goes into limp home mode. I once drove home from Chicago- 25 miles on I90 doing exacly 2350 all the way home- which is 59MPH. Longest drive home ever for me, I got a new MAF and was good to go, now I carry one with me in case.
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I blew 5 MAFs myself, on the 6th one now- I think I know what a bad MAF does. Unplug it, see if its going to run any better. It should run but not allow you to go more than 15% throttle or past 2400RPM. ECU goes into limp home mode. I once drove home from Chicago- 25 miles on I90 doing exacly 2350 all the way home- which is 59MPH. Longest drive home ever for me, I got a new MAF and was good to go, now I carry one with me in case.
MAF sensor is flimsy, the hot wire breaks off inside the sensor- there are 2 of them. Once one goes the vehicle behaves very weird, and will not wanna run good. All the other cases come from high resistance inside the MAF due to oil or what not that contaminated the hot wire itself. VW/Audi MAFs are even worse than ours. I recall paying like 46 bux for the MAF element itself, or 76 bux for the whole assembly. 3.0L MAFs are dime a dozzen
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
MAF sensor is flimsy, the hot wire breaks off inside the sensor- there are 2 of them. Once one goes the vehicle behaves very weird, and will not wanna run good. All the other cases come from high resistance inside the MAF due to oil or what not that contaminated the hot wire itself. VW/Audi MAFs are even worse than ours. I recall paying like 46 bux for the MAF element itself, or 76 bux for the whole assembly. 3.0L MAFs are dime a dozzen 

what should i do about my intake when i take it to the dealership. i believe i'm under warranty until 75k miles or 6 years. is sumthing like this not usually under warranty or do i need to put the stock one back on before i take it back?
Originally Posted by Mizike
have you read the thread about modifying a 3.0L MAF for around $100, saving $400?...check the past few days, I know I saw it in there.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=thermistor
maximillus, if money is a concern, just do this. You can get a MAF from DaveB for $90.... his phone number is in the FAQs... everyone here uses him to get OEM parts....
is wat goes bad the maf, the maf sensor, or both? if its just the maf i'm thinking i don't need to take it to the dealer and just buy the maf from somewhere either if i do the 02 maf or the 00-01 maf.
Originally Posted by maximillus
is wat goes bad the maf, the maf sensor, or both? if its just the maf i'm thinking i don't need to take it to the dealer and just buy the maf from somewhere either if i do the 02 maf or the 00-01 maf.
Originally Posted by maximillus
oh ok...thanks for clearing that up. is the sensor something that i can change or should i leave that to the dealer?
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