This morning when I started my car....it exhibited a very rough start then finally cranked over after 3 seconds later.....as I started to drive it i can feel a SEVERE power loss (30whp or more).....no CEL's or weird noises...oh yeah I can freely go to 5k RPMs.....

About 7 months ago..I had my Camshaft position sensor crap out on me (even AFTER the recall)...and I had to end up buying a new one..but during the time I was running on a broken one, my car was in LIMP MODE...it also threw a CEL unlike my CURRENT limp mode problem....it throws no CEL so i have no idea what the problem is and where to start...

Right now my car is in the EXACT same limp mode as it was when i had a broken camshaft position sensor....the thing is...i ran a a search and found out a bad MAF will not allow u to rev past 2500...but i can run it to redline if i wanted to....its just the darn thing is in limp mode...i tried resetting the ECU...cleaned the MAF with brake cleaner....still no go....what do u guys think it is?

Symptoms of current limp mode
1. Very hard start (3 seconds to start car)
2. A severe power lost in any RPM
3. Lets me rev freely even passed 2500
4. 600-650rpm idle....doesn't jump up & down...stays pretty steady

THANKS

 

bumpity bump bump

 

try doing the reset...http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ecu.asp
Hope this helps.

 

haha thats wut i did when i first experienced the problem yesterday morning....no codes....then got OBDII scanner...no codes either....damn wtf....i'm thinking its a dead MAF....i'm gonna try replacing it with a 2k1 MAF and transferring the air temp sensor....heard 2k1 MAFs were the strongest out of the 4yrs of MAFs

oh yeah do i NEED to get my ecu reflashed once i pop this new MAF in? i ran a search and heard many are doing fine without it....i plan on going TS ECU down the road....if my car does need it...u think the TS ECU reflash will cure the problem?

 

oh yeah I am out of warranty....that is why i question the ecu reflash at the stealership....i don't wanna pay $85 just to run daignosis test...then another X amount to flash the ecu....BS IMO....so who out there hasn't had a problem without the re-flash? and does anyone know if TS ECU fix it somewhat?

 

I saw a thread recently where the guy said ya don't really need the reflash... but don't quote me on it... I know for a fact that most who have done the 2k1 MAF with IAT thermistor haven't had to reflash and they run fine... if I had more time I'd dig up the threads, but not now...

Btw, there are some who claim that if your MAF is going bad, you can still rev over 2500... I guess there is a partial limp mode?

Sorry, for the uncertain answers... its just what I've seen over the past few months from people with MAF issues...

All the best man, hope ya get it worked out...

 

just got back from the parts department....i bought the 22680-2y001 MAF which comes from a 2k-2k1 i believe....copped it for only $80 bucks....immediately went home and swapped out the 2k2 MAF.....IAT thermistor was also taken from my 2k2 MAF and swapped onto the new MAF....everything is good to go and i bolted everything up.....I resetted the ecu once again by using the gas pedal method....then i fired her up....still rough start

took her for a test drive....still lack of HP....but not as much as before....for sure my low end came back...but my top end is definitely not there....my engine would be screaming after VI opens but i'm not going anywhere....

i really don't know what to do....i am confused, stuck, angry.....however there is one more thing i can do before i can say that i'm stuck....is to get the re-flash done at the stealership....man i don't want to pay them so much....anybody in SO CAL have a hookup at service?

 

oh yeah i also want to confirm with you guys....a 2k-2k1 MAF will work on a 2k2-2k3.....if you own a 2k2-2k3 you have to swap out this sensor inside your maf onto the new 2k-2k1 MAF...other than that...it bolts right up.....

but one question i need to know....i have a 2k2 with a 2k MAF....do u think nissan might bi+ch at me and say they won't do the reflash since its not the correct part? i am not going to tell them that i have an older MAF...i'mma just say I bought the correct everything + installed it...and all I want them to do is hook up the Consult II and hurry up....cuz i know it doesn't take long to upload new software into the ecu....

any ideas? puppetmaster?

 

Sorry dude, I have no idea how a dealership would/should deal with that (although I have a feeling they'd have no idea, but then again, I don't know how the Consult II works and if there's any way to tell from the software).... plus I'm sure it varies from place to place... if ya do try it, let us know how it goes, I'm sure people, including myself, would be interested in knowing for future reference....

 

What intake do you have dude because im experienceing the same problem. I hope everything turns out cool man. best of luck

 

I think he has a Berk with Apexi, but it really doesn't matter... when a MAF is ready to die, it will die, regardless of intake.... although, under certain conditions, an aftermarket intake will catalyze that....

FYI, I've had a Berk with K&N for about 8K miles now with no MAF issues... had a K&N drop-in for 32K miles before that too.... its still the original MAF that came with my 2002. I'm telling ya, its almost random...

 

I have a 2000 and i feel the same problems that he is. Now i had cheged the sensori in the maf (becuase i didnt wanna take out evrything again and do it all over) and had experienced the same proble,m. So now what do you tink it is. MAF?? i dont wanna burn 100 dollars over just a guess ya know.

 

Nocturnal....so you have experienced a severe power loss....then swapped it for a brand new MAF....regained some power but still experience rough starts+power loss? Also with NO CEL?

 

Okay so i've driven the car for a few days in this damn limp mode....but heres the update so far...

Friday May 6th...the car had absolutely no power....a SEVERE limp mode just to break it down for u....symptoms are at the top of the page....Saturday May 7th I bought a brand new 2k-2k1 MAF...btw I have a 2k2

Car has a little bit more power after the 22680-2y001 2k-2k1 MAF install.....and what i've noticed is....at 25% throttle or below(1k-3k RPMs)...the car performs quite well...almost feels "normal" before I got this stupid limp mode...haven't tried doing 25% throttle above 3k....BUT what I have noticed is above 25% throttle...the car literally stumbles and picks up in power VERY slowly....so slowly that it never reaches good HP....My VIAS is working becuz I can hear it open at 4k....it sucks cuz I sound like a civic (makes alot of noise but goes nowhere)....

oh yes..i still exhibit the rough start still....it's so embarassing trying to start up your car in the parking lot when people are around....i even had a guy walk over and ask me if i needed any help cuz he thought my starter was gone

 

oh yeah I forgot to ask this. I'm sure its lurking somewhere in the forums but I just want to double check......is the 22680-2Y001 the exact same thing as a 22680-Am600 once the IAT thermistor is transferred? I know they are different MAFs indicating they should not be the same. But I know Nissan plays money games with us consumers and try to jack our money....AM600 costs $400 while 2Y001 costs $100....

so is it really the same? can 2Y001 work "correctly" for my 2k2? I was reading a few TSBs on studman's website and it would say for 2k2s and above...replace with AM600 and nothing else....

 

bump.......

 

ummm....from what i know the MAF will ONLY fit certain 2k2 max...and not 2k3(bummer - $390)....really bad

 

I'm not sure about that... have you actually tried it? I don't see why it would be that different...

 

I'm led to think that because the TSBs are written for the Nissan techs, they have to be told that. Its more money for them putting in an AM600 and its less time and less trouble throwing in a MAF that's a direct swap as opposed to fooling around with a little thermistor, which also leads to more money for them since they'll have more time to work on other cars. Besides, it prevents not-so-alert techs from putting in the 2Y001 and forgetting the IAT... throwing a CEL...

Just pure speculation on my part here...

 

good point...i totally feel u on this one.....damn nissan

i hope you are wrong though joel....becuz i seriously can't afford a stupid am600....just to get this car up and running normally for $400 + consult II reflash? jeez that is gay....

oh yeah just out of curiosity....how would the IAT throw a CEL? it looks like a piece of wire to me....plus when i transferred it...it doesn't plug into anything....its just held on by those clips.....how would the MAF know if one is there or not if the IAT isn't even plugged in by wire?

 

I actually meant it'll throw a CEL w/o the IAT thermistor.... you can use the 2Y001 MAF w/o the IAT but to make the CEL go away ya need the thermistor in there.

Btw, aren't those clips metallic? I think there is still current going through there...

Did ya ever get the FSM ya wanted?

 

naw i didn't....you gave me the link but i tried dling the FSM from that website...and it said access denied...members only....or something like dat....joel can u send it to me through AiM? i'll be on later tonight....so i'll hit u up

 

OK guys, I'm new here, so maybe this suggestion is ignorant, but if you look at it from a Non-Maxima only standpoint, it almost sounds like clogged/bad injectors or another fuel issue. Higher revs means it needs more fuel quicker. The car being normal at low end when the engine is using less fuel would fit what seems to be happening. He has hard starts, low end runs normal, mid-high he has power loss.

If the injectors are just clogged, i wouldnt expect to get a CEL. A bad injector should throw a CEL, but i've seen it not give one in other types of cars. That would also explain the hard starts... it may be something worth looking into.

 

will do jared...thanks for the info....i'm planning to just go the CONSULT II route and have the computer look into whats wrong with my car...

 

I know nothing about consult II, but I'm not sure if low pressure at the injectors, or a low current situation at the injector (which would in turn slow the injector pulse rate, or give incorrect pressure/flow from the injector) would show via a computer diagnostic. You might actually need to actually manually test the fuel pressure in the lines, and the injectors individually.

 

UPDATE - okay back from the stealership....I ended up talking to another service rep and told him I need new software for my ECU becuz of my new MAF....he says "that will be $85"...and i'm like "wtf? I talked to Fred yesterday and he quoted me only $42"....so he walks over and brings Fred....and he informs me that the MAF indeed is $85 to fix becuz its an hour labor....he just made a mistake on the phone yesterday .....

anyway he felt bad for me and said he'll do everything for $70...i said cool u better fix it....so then after an hr later...i get my car keys back and fire her up...still a rough start...but when i took it on the streets...a noticeable power gain....it seems to pick up fairly well now....but i do experience a big loss in the mid-range and high-end....so i'm going to conclude its my exhaust manifolds.....but it sux though...i gotta drive like this for awhile until me and my friends can go install it

thanks for the help Joel....i appreciate it....and to anyone else out there who has a similiar problem like mine....don't jump to conclusions yet...such as MAF, coils, etc etc.....it could be your exhaust manifolds....and it won't throw a CEL either so watch out...

 

No problem man... although I didn't help that much... I think E55AMG is the one who set ya straight, I was just adding to the confusion since I thought it was the MAF or injectors or something. Anyways, I guess you'll find out for sure once ya either gut those pre-cats or put in headers...

All the best...