i need some help
05-10-2005, 01:23 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 195
i need some help
so...my car will not go above 1500rpm...it's just going to sit there even with full throttle....i can't drive it, even to dealership to get it fixed....following the instructions that u guys provided i got 2 codes back from the ses light
P1126 - (2002-2003) Throttle Control Motor Relay Circuit Open
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
i had the car at the dealership about 3 months ago for the same problem and they replaced (at least they say they did) the throttle chamber....my first tought was that my MAF is dead...but i dunno....btw
it's a 03 max with 35k(warranty almost up)
thanks
P1126 - (2002-2003) Throttle Control Motor Relay Circuit Open
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
i had the car at the dealership about 3 months ago for the same problem and they replaced (at least they say they did) the throttle chamber....my first tought was that my MAF is dead...but i dunno....btw
it's a 03 max with 35k(warranty almost up)
thanks
05-10-2005, 01:29 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 195
i tried getting the maf replaced but the dealer is arguing that maf is fine....that its something at my fault...he said that because my electrical box(the one on the bottom of the batterie) is loose that all that is happening is caused by that.....
05-10-2005, 01:39 PM
#4
Maxima Pilot
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 1,467
This is the biggest bullsh!it I've ever seen.....some of the dealers, I tell ya....they ought to be taken to court
Please advise the dealer that you are familiar with Moss-Magnuson and other vehicle warranty acts enacted to prevent customers such as yourself by being screwed by unscrupulous dealers, said acts essentially stating that it must be conclusively proven that mods, changes, prior repairs, etc must be found to directly cause the new failure for warranty to be denied.
In other words, the dealer has to conclusively prove that the loose stuff under the battery box caused the MAF failures, highly doubtful give the history of MAF failures in a myriad of Maximas. Please advise that you like to have a three-way conversation on that subject with the dealer's service manager and a Nissan USA Customer Service rep and see what they say....
Please advise the dealer that you are familiar with Moss-Magnuson and other vehicle warranty acts enacted to prevent customers such as yourself by being screwed by unscrupulous dealers, said acts essentially stating that it must be conclusively proven that mods, changes, prior repairs, etc must be found to directly cause the new failure for warranty to be denied.
In other words, the dealer has to conclusively prove that the loose stuff under the battery box caused the MAF failures, highly doubtful give the history of MAF failures in a myriad of Maximas. Please advise that you like to have a three-way conversation on that subject with the dealer's service manager and a Nissan USA Customer Service rep and see what they say....
05-10-2005, 03:10 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 195
from what u guys r saying it has to be the MAF - i tried disconnecting it so i could get the car into the "limp" mode ( go up to 2500rpm) but that doesn't even help now...i`m getting the car towed to another dealership tommorow...we'll see what's going to happen
btw i called nissan and set up what they call a file/case or something like that
btw i called nissan and set up what they call a file/case or something like that
05-10-2005, 06:37 PM
#8
Originally Posted by yogi
One more thing...when i mentioned that MAF were prone to failure he said taht he did not hear about anything like that happening....it's all bull****......and the name of the dealer is BILL KAY NISSAN
05-11-2005, 12:38 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 195
just off the phone with the dealer.....there pulling the codes right now...it will be fixed under warranty (nice)...also there thinking about replacing my tranny....they said that the AT light flashes from time to time....
05-14-2005, 06:01 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 195
little update:
I have to pay for the fix....the car has been at the stealer since wed. it's saturday and they still cannot figure out what's going on....so far my bill is at $300(that sucks)
The Stealer is saying that it's something electrical, but for some reason i cannot belive that....(thay are telling me that somebody messed around with the wires in that car) i`m the second owner of that car...bought it with 15k and it drove fine until 28-29k when it started breaking...
any thought of accually what that may be??? i want my car back ASAP...
oooo and one more....they offered an extended warranty for 5yrs and 100k with $50 deductible for $989 - do think that it's worjht buying...???
I have to pay for the fix....the car has been at the stealer since wed. it's saturday and they still cannot figure out what's going on....so far my bill is at $300(that sucks)
The Stealer is saying that it's something electrical, but for some reason i cannot belive that....(thay are telling me that somebody messed around with the wires in that car) i`m the second owner of that car...bought it with 15k and it drove fine until 28-29k when it started breaking...
any thought of accually what that may be??? i want my car back ASAP...
oooo and one more....they offered an extended warranty for 5yrs and 100k with $50 deductible for $989 - do think that it's worjht buying...???
05-14-2005, 06:35 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 882
Lol..ask them what good comes from spending $1000 and getting the same crappy warranty dealership service?! The nerve of some dealers is amazing!
$1000 isn't bad considering upto 100k mi. but only drop the $$ if you find a good dealer in the area who will actually tell you something other than (a) it's your fault or (b) "cannot duplicate". Even then, haggle them some more on the price of the wtty, b/c they make good margins on them.
$1000 isn't bad considering upto 100k mi. but only drop the $$ if you find a good dealer in the area who will actually tell you something other than (a) it's your fault or (b) "cannot duplicate". Even then, haggle them some more on the price of the wtty, b/c they make good margins on them.
05-15-2005, 09:14 AM
#13
yogi... get the warranty (it pays for itself, especially when a coil pack goes bad, etc)... and go to WOODFIELD NISSAN. Ask for Pauly (in the afternoon)... I guarantee you'll be taken care of just fine.
05-16-2005, 09:03 AM
#15
God I cannot STAND hearing these stories of this kind of b.s. from stealerships!!!!
The warranty is only good if the dealership will honor it and acutally SERVICE the car.
If you can find a trustworthy and reputable dealer, that it could be worth it.
$1000 is pricey for that warranty.
I bought one a few years back for $500. There IS alot of room to deal on these things, because the dealer KNOWS you will be back to have the service done at their shop....
BEAT 'em down.
gr
The warranty is only good if the dealership will honor it and acutally SERVICE the car.
If you can find a trustworthy and reputable dealer, that it could be worth it.
$1000 is pricey for that warranty.
I bought one a few years back for $500. There IS alot of room to deal on these things, because the dealer KNOWS you will be back to have the service done at their shop....
BEAT 'em down.
gr