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MAF Sensor Installation

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Old 05-10-2005, 07:12 PM
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MAF Sensor Installation

I've checked the FAQ's and Installation guides, unless I have missed something I can't find this Topic, does anyone have any advice on doing the swap? Is it best done at a dealership? or is it a DIY project?
I am also doing the coils and they seem very easy.
My car is a 2000 SE 5 spd.


Any input would be great,
Markus.
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:27 PM
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Take a peek at it. It is about as self explanitory as it gets. As for the coils, look for a spark plug diy.
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:51 PM
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do not bring it to the dealer! it is DIY i just dont have the writeup but many people do. it was shown to me when i did mine and it was not hard. you just remove the airbox and remove the bolts holding the MAF. give it a few more hours for the diagram
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Old 05-10-2005, 07:53 PM
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DIY...

Here's a picture from the driver's side of the car... the wire harness to the MAF has already been disconnected... and this is a 2002, but it should be similar.



Here's a pic with the accordion hose, MAF housing, and airbox removed. You should be able to replace it pretty simply. Its probably easiest if ya pulled the whole thing out like this.



Credit goes to Audtatious for the pics from his intake install. (http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html)
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:34 PM
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Why take the entire housing out when you can just replace the sensor unit? Takes about 10 minutes once you have the right tool.
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Old 05-15-2005, 03:44 PM
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And what Tool would that be?

Nextly, How the hell does everyone Run an Intake?
I have been told numerous times that so much as an
aftermarket filter will blow the MAF or at least cause degraded performance
due to getting dirty.
Should I just leave the intake side alone and do the Y+B?
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Old 05-15-2005, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by London SE
And what Tool would that be?

Nextly, How the hell does everyone Run an Intake?
I have been told numerous times that so much as an
aftermarket filter will blow the MAF or at least cause degraded performance
due to getting dirty.
Should I just leave the intake side alone and do the Y+B?

torx t-20
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Old 05-15-2005, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cabernet
Why take the entire housing out when you can just replace the sensor unit? Takes about 10 minutes once you have the right tool.

thats why Nissan changed the bulletin--we use to have to take all that crap off and replace the whole unit--(we never really did this) they finally figured out that the screen reall isnt the problem--you really can't ruin the screen unless theres holes in it--and the new sensors come with standard torx bolts--most of them have the torx heads with the pin in the middle--
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:25 AM
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so would it be best for me to take apart the whole unit including the air filter box or to only replace the sensor?
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:34 AM
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Thread Resurected from the dead....

I would just remove the sensor from the tube, but I haven't thought about this in about 7 years.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mitch09
so would it be best for me to take apart the whole unit including the air filter box or to only replace the sensor?
Remove the sensor from the tube.

Unplug harness, two torx screws, twist sensor and pull. Reinsert new one, two torx screws, one harness to connect and done.

It takes longer to fill a tank of gas in the Maxima than it does swapping out a MAF sensor.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TallTom
Remove the sensor from the tube.

Unplug harness, two torx screws, twist sensor and pull. Reinsert new one, two torx screws, one harness to connect and done.

It takes longer to fill a tank of gas in the Maxima than it does swapping out a MAF sensor.
this ^. u may have tamper proof torx in it though, if u do, by a five dollar torx t20 with the tamperproof slot.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by user name001
this ^. u may have tamper proof torx in it though, if u do, by a five dollar torx t20 with the tamperproof slot.
I think your right about the security torx, tho I think you can get them out with a small phillips screwdriver.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:36 PM
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its not the filter allowing it to get dirty, more that cheap cone filters are covered with oil that coats the maf, buy a quality filter that hasnt been oiled to s***t and you should be fine.
Originally Posted by London SE
And what Tool would that be?

Nextly, How the hell does everyone Run an Intake?
I have been told numerous times that so much as an
aftermarket filter will blow the MAF or at least cause degraded performance
due to getting dirty.
Should I just leave the intake side alone and do the Y+B?
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:57 PM
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By the way, the biggest problem that you will have is in the removal of that electrical connector. I always end up struggling with it for a long time before it snaps off. I have done this few times and it was always a pain. If there is a trick, I have yet to learn it.

Get the security torx bit set. Most stores such as NAPA carry them in stock.

If yours is a 2000, the chances are it was replaced at least once in its lifetime and the new screws may NOT be the security torx
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:07 PM
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push green tab towards base, squeeze and pull the harness off. thats it.
Originally Posted by sontakke
By the way, the biggest problem that you will have is in the removal of that electrical connector. I always end up struggling with it for a long time before it snaps off. I have done this few times and it was always a pain. If there is a trick, I have yet to learn it.

Get the security torx bit set. Most stores such as NAPA carry them in stock.

If yours is a 2000, the chances are it was replaced at least once in its lifetime and the new screws may NOT be the security torx
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:09 PM
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Thanks for the quick replies! I'm hoping a new maf will solve my problems. My car wants to stall when the engine is warm. When it's warm it idles at 600rpm and dips down to 100 and goes up and down up and down. Occasionally stalls. When the engines cold it idles at about 1k. Had the code p0171 system too lean but I cleare it and it hasn't come back. Yet...
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:20 AM
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If I am not mistaken, the pushing on the tab and pulling off the connector is counter intuitive because the tab is on the connector itself! So you are simultaneously trying to push and pull on the same stupid connector!
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sontakke
If I am not mistaken, the pushing on the tab and pulling off the connector is counter intuitive because the tab is on the connector itself! So you are simultaneously trying to push and pull on the same stupid connector!
The tab is on the side of the connector, not the top. You squeeze the tab and pull up. If its a bit snug, squeeze and wiggle while pulling.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:37 AM
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Hello again! so I installed the new maf + housing and that seemed to clear up the idling/stalling issues I was having but after driving for about 45 minutes the CEL came on again with p0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). Could this be due to not re-programming the ECU with nissan? any ideas? I've been reading about pre-cats, cat, y-pipe and o2 sensors related to this code.. I'm a little lost. my car seems to run alright (2001 maxima SE)
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mitch09
Hello again! so I installed the new maf + housing and that seemed to clear up the idling/stalling issues I was having but after driving for about 45 minutes the CEL came on again with p0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 1). Could this be due to not re-programming the ECU with nissan? any ideas? I've been reading about pre-cats, cat, y-pipe and o2 sensors related to this code.. I'm a little lost. my car seems to run alright (2001 maxima SE)
Reset your ECU. It will return to "factory settings".

How to do the reset:
- Disconnect the NEGATIVE wire in your battery before you go to sleep and reconnect it again in the morning.
- Use a OBDII scan tool for doing the reset.

And for your p0420 code check this page: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0420

Sheers!
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:12 AM
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the green tab has a locking feature, its not the same ordinary push/pull tab, its spring loaded so you have to squeeze the green tab, push down till u feel a click and pull the whole harness up.

when disconnecting the bat, afterwords cycle the key a few times, or pump the breaks to remove any current left over, or simply disconnect the POS and NEG terminal and hold the cables together for 10 seconds.
Originally Posted by TallTom
The tab is on the side of the connector, not the top. You squeeze the tab and pull up. If its a bit snug, squeeze and wiggle while pulling.
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