2k2. 61k miles..

Car has a distinct rough idle, sort of "misfire" feel to it. Cleaned T/B, replaced plugs with new NGK's. MAF replaced and ECU reprogrammed less than a year ago. 2 O2 sensors replaced. Trans (a/t) replaced 8k miles ago. K&N drop-in, not over-oiled.

Also, when you first tip into the gas, there is a bit of hesitation and a noticeable drop in RPMs before it picks up and gets going, and it doesn't seem to pull as hard from 2-4k as it used to. Once it gets above 4k, it pulls like a demon all the way to 6600. Tach does seem a bit jumpy from 2-3k. There's also a very distinct hesitation if you are cruising down the highway and punch the throttle wide open.


Ideas?

 

I had a similar problem with my 2k. It turned out to be a bad coil. But I thought it was a problem for 2k's not 2k2. Good luck.

 

Maybe your pre-cats are starting to go? Clogged? Just taking a wild guess. Haven't had that problem yet.

 

HEY HEY I have this similar problem but I also hear an occasional ticking sound when it idles....and also when its on drive and im stoped....its a sort of ticking like a spark is missing or something..anyway do you hear ticking and rough idle at the same time?

Also I was going 70+ on WOT on my max along side with my friends TSX 4 Cyl, man what is this....BAD COIL? uhh weiiiiirdnessss

 

sounds like bad coil or MAF sensor

 

I had the same problem with my Y2K Max. Turned out to be the number 4 coil. Replaced it and haven't looked back since.

 

same exact problem with my 2k2 with 53k miles. havent gotten it checked out yet tho.

 

Sounds like a bad MAF sensor. Many 2k2's had a problem where the MAF would partly burn out and result in a loss of power and created a very rough idle. Nissan has a published TSB for this issue. The TSB will allow Nissan to replace the MAF and upgrade the ECM software to resolve the problem. This worked wonders for me in 2003 (identical symptoms) and I haven't had the issue since the TSB was applied. NOTE: Some dealers never liked doing the TSB and will tell you they can't replicate the problem - this is BS. Just find a dealer who will execute on the TSB and you should be good.

You can find the TSB here:

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/

 

i had this EXACT problem (at very similay mileage) plus i would stall when coming to a stop if i let it dip below idle before clutching. i turned out to be a MAF sensor problem, they replaced it and all is good

 

ABS -- as stated above, MAF has already been replaced under this TSB (twice, actually).

 

i have this same problem and just my MAF replaced with ECU update. haven't changed my coils and i'm at 60k. my car is WEAK right now.

 

sounds like bad coils. I would have them checked.

 

It could also be that you need to reset the throttle position and the idle air adjustment. If the procedure was done improperly it could cause a loss of power and a low/high and/or rough idle.

 

I'll try the reset procedures. Thanks for the info!

 

sounds like the coils...

 

How are you guys checking your coils?

 

usually the SES will throw a code to indicate the coil pack failure

 

My car never threw a code, i took it to the stealership and they hooked it up to some computer and it showed the lag in the coil pack.

 

From the symptoms you state about the rough idle and the car stumbling when accelerating could be a lack of fuel pressure or clogged injectors. A malfunctioning throttle position sensor could also affect the two.

I would test your MAF (including IAT) and TPS. If you're over 60K you're due for a new fuel filter so you might as well get that changed. When is the last time you've cleaned your injectors? I would go get a can of BG44K from the dealer to clean out your fuel delivery system.

I hope I helped a little.

 

Injector flush with BG44k at 43k miles at 61k now.
Fuel filter on my car is not replaceable.

Will try another flush, see if that helps

 

ever since I bought my car i have notice a little bit of a rough idle but as soon as its WOT it seems to run just fine... The only think I can think is im just used to the smooth running BMW engines after driving them all day???

 

Thanks for the feed back Army.

I was kinda looking to see if there is a way to test the coils with a Multimeter using a particular procedure. I currently believe my forth gen has a bad coil. The way Nissan has trouble with its coils I want to be ready to check them.

Also, has anyone tried using coils other then Nissan factory coils. Like replacement coils from Autozone and NAPA or Aftermarket like MSD or Crane???

Gears

 

same problem. when u press the gas pedal all the way in it takes a min to acclerate. I have ALMOST 60k miles and the SES light is on... So take it to a Nissan Dealership or what? Can they clean/replace the MAF? Is that what I understand? What is the typical cost?

 

went to the dealership today about the service engine soon light and they hooked it up and that cost $88.70 for that (including labor). After that they told me I would need to upgrade the ECU and replace an O2 sensor all that would cost a RIDICULOUS $475. The guy told me "you can't just upgrade the ECU without replacing the sensors," I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THIS!!! I then proceeded to tell them about the slowness in accelaration and they agreed it could be the coils. But all in all, after the service was complete the SES light went off, WITHOUT spending $475. What else could be the problem? And if I do upgrade that ECU how much should it REALLY COST??

 

There was a thread about this, with the solution a few days ago. Please no more repeat threads.