Good Job!

I wish my misfire problems were this easy...

 

Congrats............ but those are the the major misfire problems ignition,FUEL,compression, timing........... im sure people will learn from this. =)

 

Very...i am so shocked at what happened today...

BlackBirdVQ told me last night to examine everything inside the fuel tank just to make sure....u don't wanna dish out another $250 for a fuel pump to only find out something is disconnected...well today I took apart everything right down to the fuel pump/fuel filter/tank housing....everything was apart....nothing was out of place or disconnected...I cleaned her up and put everything back on...and to my suprise...I was able to rev her freely in neutral....this never happened before...so I took her for a spin and I was ......wtf!?! all my HP came back!

Anyway I am absolutely stunned at what just happened....all I did was disconnect every fuel component in the fuel tank...reconnect everything back together and dropped her back in....nothing was abnormally wrong....oh my...headers are awesome...I took her for a few WOT runs...my God this thing is fast....my exhaust tone does sound somewhat ricey becuz I do have a budget test pipe...but overall I am very satisfied at how I can make a very loud POP noise when i let off the throttle at 7k....

 

So make me some exhaust clips now then, bish....



Glad to hear things are good again....

 

sorry for bumping an old post...but after a few WOT runs...i get the SES flashing at me for the same 0300 misfire code...I don't know what it could be? I have a 51psi fuel pressure rating & brand new coils+sparks....

everytime the SES flashes at me I pick up my OBD scanner and clear it....and usually it doesn't come back until the "next" trip when I start off my car....any clues? If I just let it flash at me and wait for it to turn off itself....the SES light stays solid and it bugs me becuz I have to erase it

 

Try to see at what point in the rpm band the light starts blinking or just stays on. It now sounds like the problem HNDA ETR and I have...

 

it could be the EGI harness. Try resetting the codes, then wiggle the egi harness on the left side of the engine going to the firewall while it is idling. See if the code(s) come back.

 

Steven- if you where to tell me that you did the fuel filter before I woulda told you to check the connections in the tank right away. It seems like you forgot to mention that, but when you told me you have 21psi of fuel pressure that just seemed like the pressure was bleeding off inside the tank from a improper fuel line installs. I'm glad that it worked out for ya, now give me some rep pointz bizznatch :P

As for the buzzy exhaust, I have Warpspeed test pipe with HS headers and Stromung exhaust (cattman) and the exhaust is nowhere ricey or buzzy. It sounds down right sexy and exotic.

As for the missfire codes, Nissan has had a batch of wire harness' be less shielded than others. The wires that need to be shielded get exposed over time and EMI throws off the ECU. I would wiggle the harness around like foobeca said and see if the engine changes in the way it runs- like if the RPMs dip or one cylinder stats to miss. Nissan says it happens after the intake manifold has been pulled off too, so all of you seem to have a common problem with the wireing.

 

You might wanna check all the wireing going to your fuel pump, or the harness look for any exposed wire, which causes a short, just my .02.

 

After checking the wiring to the fuel pump, you might wanna look up the TSB about the EGI harness wire breakage.

 

Thanks for the tips...

I will check out the EGI harness and wiggle it around during idle....oh and my car doesn't apply for the TSB on EGI harness...that was for 00-01....besides I have no warranty...

when my SES flashes at me I don't feel any power loss? but it does misfire somewhat during start-up cuz I can hear the exhaust rattling around everywhere...not as badly as before...but noticeable....anyway I resetted my ecu and did the idle air volume reset thru the gas pedal...then immdiately shut her off and disconnected the battery....you think leaving it off for over 24hrs might help? i'll keep ya'll posted

 

Roy - How long have u had this misfiring issue? I think mine is starting to act the same as your's and Adam's....here are my conditions...

-Slight misfiring at initial start-up...I can easily tell by looking at the engine bay and watching the whole engine vibrate slowly....my exhaust system also bangs against those under-car braces becuz it's vibrating with the engine as it misfires...no blinking SES but a stored code in the ECM when i pull it manually thru the obdii scanner...

-Blinking SES during daily driving...won't go away until 15-30 seconds later...no matter what RPM you are in/what gear you are in...it still blinks

-Solid SES light if the misfiring code is stored more than 2 times in the ECM....I notice it doesn't blink anymore and just stays solid if my ECM picks up too many misfiring codes..

 

Hey is your ecu functioning normally, i was just wondering maybe your ecu fried one of its circuits, if you could try checking it, maybe take it out, take it apart see if its ok, just throwing out some ideas.

 

Rob01ski...i'm pretty damn sure my ECU is working fine.....

I would also like to note...I can now experience the slight pinging that vq35s have at low RPM....like at around 1800 is when it pings...goes away at around 2100-2200....when I first got this car at 24k miles...it's treated me well with no pinging or hesitation at any RPM...now after the headers+fixing my fuel problem...I get the slight ping...could this be related to the misfiring by any chance? in other words...if i can clear the misfiring issue on my car, then pinging should go away?

For those of you who threw out the suggestion of EGI harness...do I just wiggle the harness near the passenger side while it's idling and only that area? if I do find a change in idle...what should I do? shield it even more with some electrical tape or something?

 

bump...still crawling

 

After looking through the tsb's again I found this:
FC9002981

Service Information: If a 2002 Maxima/I35 or a 2002 Altima w/V6 engine should develop the following symptoms; - DTC with P0011 or P0021 with a possible P0300 stored (with possible misfire) The cause may be the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid. If the Intake V.T.C. sprocket is not in the correct position at the correct time because of Solenoid malfunction, incorrect valve timing could occur, causing the symptom. Service Procedure: Look for a cylinder misfire that is isolated to only one bank of cylinders. Once the bank is isolated, check the function of the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid for that bank. Source: Robert Beattie, Nissan North America

As mentioned in this thread.

I have not had either of the P00x1 codes just the 0300.
Than and the car doesn't go into limp mode but it does seem to idle slightly rough from time to time. At start up I don't have any of steven88's symptoms.

Is it possible to have this problem after the recall work for the Crank&Cam PS has been done and not get any of the other codes?

 

Just for kicks...i decided to seafoam my car yesterday....did half a bottle thru the brake booster and half a bottle into the gas tank....man alot of white smoke came out...after everything cleared I got the 0300 again...it's coo becuz I read that everybody gets this code after a seafoam...i cleared it and took her for a drive...seems to pick up better off the line but no gains in the mid-high range....

I thought my misfire problems were cured after the seafoam...then later at night when I took the car out...started to misfire again

 

Don't feel bad. I'm joining the club now also. Same freakin' code. Can't someone help us?

 

I think steven88 fixed his car, PM him

 

wow my thread has been revived...

Tony, what seems to be the problem? Do you have an OBDII scanner on hand? If so, I suggest you carry it with you and keep clearing the 0300 codes everytime it pops up...just keep doing it and see if it helps...I know for me, I drove around and kept clearing it once I see it...it just eventually went away....any drivability symptoms?

 

It's been coming off and on since my header install months ago. I've cleared it lots of times and it goes off for awhile and comes back on later. I've pretty much gotten use to it, however, it's a pain in the ***. I don't like the "unattractive" SES light on in my dash. No driveability symptoms at all.

 

You know what...i believe extending the primary o2 sensor wires make the o2's act haywire at times...cuz I do get the codes once in awhile...and no drivability problems....i'm sure you extended your primary o2 wires right? Cuz I know I did cuz theres no way the stock wire length would reach the cattman bung...

 

Yup...they're extended. I still have my O2 simulator that I have not hooked up but I don't think that will make my misfire code go away.

 

yeah it won't go away...o2 simulator only taps into the secondary o2s....I read in the FSM that primary o2s can cause 0300 codes...and i believe extending the wires can lead to abnormal functions of the o2 causing it to misfire sometimes....i just wish nissan had made the factory o2 wires a little longer so they would reach the cattman bungs....

wait hold on...you said u dont have yer simulator hooked up? if thats the case, aren't you throwing an SES already for not having that simulator? Or yer secondaries are plugged behind your main cat?

 

You could lengthen the O2 wires by using larger gauge wire. That would have the same resistance as a smaller gauge wire that's a shorter distance.

I don't see how extending the wires would lead to abnormal function, unless you significantely lengthen the wires. It certainly wouldn't cause a misfire unless it were to register a voltage so low so as to cause it to run super lean.

 

I would lead to believe this as well....but ionno ....it does misfire occassionally...like i said earlier, it doesn't affect drivability...i only "feel" it sometimes when the idle dips low...so its like an ON & OFF thing...it doesn't stay for a long period of time

 

Yes, you are correct. I do not have an O2 simulator hooked up at all. I have my O2 sensors on the pre-fab bungs that comes with the Cattman Headers. It is located after the main cat, however, I have removed my cat and have a straight pipe in it's place.

 

this is a very long thread and i haven't got the time to check all that, so sorry if this is a repost. to test cylinders 1 and 3, disconnect the power to the fuel injectors. if the idle is still the same misfire iwth no change, your problem is there.

-edit: also, on cold-start, o2 sensors are ignored until the engine is at operating temperature, so i dont know what everyone is talking about, because u say this occurs while start up as well.

 

o2 sensors are ignored initially, but not for long. The o2 sensors in the maxima are heated and start working much sooner than the time the engine is at operating temp.