Does the max require super?

Some people said yes, others no..
whats the official word?

 

I think I remember reading in the owners manual that we need to use at least 89 octane. Correct me if I'm wrong. I've been using 93 but I don't think it's necessary. On my last refill I switched to 89 and didn't notice anything significant. Plus it's cheaper.

 

The manual at least recommends premium, can't remember if it requires it. Regardless, most of us run premium and see the best performance from it (especially with summer coming up). Others have run 89 and report no change... Note that if you advance the timing, premium is mandatory.

Would recommend running premium to you, the car will retard the timing if it starts pinging under load with lower octane gas (and won't advance it later). So you'll have a "permanent" performance limiter on your car unless you have it changed back. And let's face it, if you're looking for fuel economy, you shouldn't have bought a max (believe me! )

Peace

 

The Max only requires 89 octane. I normally use 93 because I notice a huge difference in performance between premium and regular. I don't think it's just my butt dyno either.

 

My wifes 97 max hated anything other than premium (91 here in Missouri). My 02 6 speed liked anything but I feed it 91 but from what I understand the 3.5 won't ping like the 3.0 did. The 3.5 will adjust itself to the lower grade of fuel but it isn't favorable to you other than you don't hear it ping. I just bought a 2000 and the jury is still out on what it will like.

Bottom line is there is no "rule" or requirement other than Unleaded Gasoline but to get the most from your car 91 or better seems the way to go.

 

Owners Manual for our cars simply states "91 Octane recommended". "Use of an octane rating less 91 may result in less than max. performance". Or something to that affect. There is also a label on your fuel door that states the same thing. The PCM will retard timing ONLY WHILE the knock sensor is subjected to vibration caused by detonation. It ain't a permanent change in timing. But anyone using less than 91 is less than wise, particularly with a MT and in warmer climes. Pinging can occur and not be heard by the driver particularly when it is of short duration, and with the quick response of the PCM in cutting back the timing attempting to eliminate the ping. Obviously this action of the PCM being forced to cut back the timing advance for a period of time will result in loss of performance.

 

Don't think that's correct - once the timing is retarded (idle timing), it will not be adusted back. So while you're correct that knock does it, the effect is permanent until externally changed.

 

Got proof ....

 

No more than you do - but others have stated it this way before.

 

http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350370

 

Sounds like bs to me.

 

......

 

93,93,93,93,93 for me.

 

I was responding to Maximax 2. When I refreshed my screen I saw your post, NmexMax, which makes sense to me.

 

Wow, that's your "proof" - one thread which doesn't address the specific question? Okay big guy, why don't you scan through a few of these (interestingly, you appear to contradict yourself in the first one...):

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=timing

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=timing

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ghlight=timing

Hey listen, I could be wrong; so we should probably wait from an answer from someone who actually knows, which means not you and not me. Some of the threads discuss cars that have been found with timing at 14 degrees, below "normal" of 15 - however, that could've been a factory setting change. So who knows. Anyone, I've spent more time than it's worth on the topic, so I'm out.

rmurdoch - thanks for the input...

 

The owners manual specs "91 RON" which is equivalent to a US pump rating of 87 , however my 00 seems to like 89 better - I had experienced a little "pinging" on 87

 

I respect BlackBIRD a lot more than 80% of the other members on this board, and you should too. The thread is 7 posts long... read it, you might learn something ... it's not that hard to see. He even gives dyno results.
http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350370
I really don't care and am sorry to get your underwear in a ruffle. I was just trying to help and stop the spread of misinformation on here by quoting a respectful member that the only way to bring back the timing is to use a consult II, it's been stated time and time again ...

I've had mine done and it's stayed so ... sorry once again ...

 

My car's (2000 GXE) manual says that the gas to be used in the car should an octane rating of 87 or above. It means that ANY gas can be used, as long as its octane rating is not below 87. No matter what everyone says.

For your own piece of mind, do not run on 87 100% of time. If you really have to do it, try mixing the grades, or alternate. Running a lower octane gas increases the possibility of the engine to start pinging, which may lead to major breakdowns. It is up to you to calculate the likelyhood of that to occur, and it is your vallet that will pay.

 

You know what? Having spent a little more time on this, it looks like I'm wrong and you're right.

It appears that the ECU will retard the timing only while it detects pinging (i.e. tank of low-octane or bad gas); once the detonation problem goes away, base timing will resume. And the 14 degree BTDC Maximas look like they were set that way from the factory.

My bad

Thanks for helping me learn something new!

 

manual recommends 91, if you run lower and car detects knocking, then it will retard timing which usually translates to a small loss in power.