New MAF new car WOW
06-09-2005, 07:52 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
New MAF new car WOW
Just installed my MAF and removed the TB and cleaned it. The car runs like a champ now haven't driven it yet (on road) gotta paint it probably this weekend and wait for the title work from NY. Thanks for everyones input help to my previous post.. 
06-26-2005, 09:32 AM
#6
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 12
I replaced the faulty MAF on my 00 a year ago and experienced the following results:
- runs like a champ
- no change in gas mileage
- $200 in my pocket that would not be there if I believed the dealer (or most of the posts on this topic)
- runs like a champ
- no change in gas mileage
- $200 in my pocket that would not be there if I believed the dealer (or most of the posts on this topic)
06-27-2005, 08:06 AM
#7
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 51
Originally Posted by darrick04
I have often wondered too so I called DAVE B. from southpoint nissan and he said that it's not absolutely neccesary but if u want to avoid throwing o2 sensor codes then u should...
06-27-2005, 10:37 AM
#9
Originally Posted by martinezmark
What is an MAF?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....74#post1116874
06-27-2005, 11:07 AM
#11
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Add me to the "replaced MAF and drastically improved performance" list... my 2000 GLE runs like it did when I got it 2 years ago. Also replaced the sparkplugs and it appeared the plugs had been in for the entire 68k on my odometer as they were quite worn...
Used the old housing w/the new MAF (P/N: 22680-2Y001) as only difference I saw was a green dot on the new housing, plus it was a lot easier than taking apart the intake. Had taken the entire intake apart over the weekend and cleaned all the junk out of it. Attempted to clean the MAF and failed, as I was at the SES / hit accellerator prior to warmup and stall stage, so the MAF was probably on it last legs as well as being dirty... I knew the MAF was toast after cleaning when the car would stall/run chunky with the cleaned MAF connected... and sound good but not excede 2.5k rpms with it disconnected.
Dropped in the new MAF, runs like a champ, SES light went off. Will probably do the ECU reprogram eventually as well, since it is recommended and may get better gas mileage as a result...
According to the part box, MAF = "Meter-Air Flow", also heard "Mass-Air Flow" used...
Used the old housing w/the new MAF (P/N: 22680-2Y001) as only difference I saw was a green dot on the new housing, plus it was a lot easier than taking apart the intake. Had taken the entire intake apart over the weekend and cleaned all the junk out of it. Attempted to clean the MAF and failed, as I was at the SES / hit accellerator prior to warmup and stall stage, so the MAF was probably on it last legs as well as being dirty... I knew the MAF was toast after cleaning when the car would stall/run chunky with the cleaned MAF connected... and sound good but not excede 2.5k rpms with it disconnected.
Dropped in the new MAF, runs like a champ, SES light went off. Will probably do the ECU reprogram eventually as well, since it is recommended and may get better gas mileage as a result...
According to the part box, MAF = "Meter-Air Flow", also heard "Mass-Air Flow" used...
06-27-2005, 02:00 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
Any writeups/how-tos on installing a new MAF. Its in my Haynes book for my manual is for a 95-2001 maxima and EVERY damn thing ive ever done,using that book, has been different from what they say to do/pictures they use. I couldnt find one in the stickies, if one doesnt exist i'll figure it out.
06-27-2005, 02:50 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Yeah, I purchased the Haynes book prior to doing this and it was really only useful for the diagrams of what is what. Their MAF housing replacement instructions don't mention that it is a PITA to remove the MAF without also removing the airbox...
Here's a simple writeup on how I did it in my 2000 GLE.
Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic, I had no clue as to what I was doing, It took me like 5 hours to take the intake apart, clean it, and put it back in... So, I'm probably wrong and it's not my fault if you toast your intake, engine, or neighbor's dog by following this writeup. Keep track of your screws as well as what you have disconnected and it should all go back together fine.
Replace the MAF and not the housing (5-10 minutes):
1. Disconnect battery negative (Need to reset ECU anyways)
2. Disconnect power connector on MAF (Push the green thing on the connector down all the way vertically into housing and lock, at which point you can remove the connector easily... if you are worried about breaking it, just push down with your thumb)
3. Remove the two security screws on the old MAF. (I used the pliers method which resulted in lots of metal shavings and profanity)
4. Remove the old MAF by pulling it straight out
- There is an O-ring seal on it, so may need a little force to get it out
- I rotated it about 15 degrees so that I could get a more firm grip on it to remove it
5. Remove the non-security screws on the new part (I used to redesigned 2001 one 22680-2Y001)
6. Remove new MAF from housing (It is slightly longer than previous version) as done in step 4 for the existing one.
7. Insert new MAF with proper alignment, the top should align like the existing one.
8. Put screws back in from new part (Non-security)
9. Attach power to MAF
10. Wait 1-2 hrs, reconnect battery negative, start, good to go
Replace housing (30min-10hours):
1. Remove battery (Easier this way)
2. Disconnect power connector on MAF
3. Remove all of the bolts holding the airbox in.
4. Unscrew metal O-Ring clamp on the backend of the MAF (The round metal thing with the screw on it that unscrewing loosens the pressure of the clamp)
5. Remove airbox and MAF assembly as one piece (MAF slides out of the large rubber piece that sits inside the plasitc thing right before the accordian type throttle body piece)
6. Remove MAF assembly from airbox by removing the bolts (I removed the bolts from the airbox prior to removing the assembly which is a PITA, so just remove the airbox/MAF as one piece, it will be 100x easier)
7. Bolt new MAF assembly onto airbox
8. Put the MAF/airbox assembly back into the car, tighten that O-ring clamp, bolt airbox back in.
9. Connect power connector to MAF
10. Put battery back in, connect positive.
11. Wait 1-2 hrs, reconnect battery negative, start, good to go
Here's a simple writeup on how I did it in my 2000 GLE.
Standard disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic, I had no clue as to what I was doing, It took me like 5 hours to take the intake apart, clean it, and put it back in... So, I'm probably wrong and it's not my fault if you toast your intake, engine, or neighbor's dog by following this writeup. Keep track of your screws as well as what you have disconnected and it should all go back together fine.
Replace the MAF and not the housing (5-10 minutes):
1. Disconnect battery negative (Need to reset ECU anyways)
2. Disconnect power connector on MAF (Push the green thing on the connector down all the way vertically into housing and lock, at which point you can remove the connector easily... if you are worried about breaking it, just push down with your thumb)
3. Remove the two security screws on the old MAF. (I used the pliers method which resulted in lots of metal shavings and profanity)
4. Remove the old MAF by pulling it straight out
- There is an O-ring seal on it, so may need a little force to get it out
- I rotated it about 15 degrees so that I could get a more firm grip on it to remove it
5. Remove the non-security screws on the new part (I used to redesigned 2001 one 22680-2Y001)
6. Remove new MAF from housing (It is slightly longer than previous version) as done in step 4 for the existing one.
7. Insert new MAF with proper alignment, the top should align like the existing one.
8. Put screws back in from new part (Non-security)
9. Attach power to MAF
10. Wait 1-2 hrs, reconnect battery negative, start, good to go
Replace housing (30min-10hours):
1. Remove battery (Easier this way)
2. Disconnect power connector on MAF
3. Remove all of the bolts holding the airbox in.
4. Unscrew metal O-Ring clamp on the backend of the MAF (The round metal thing with the screw on it that unscrewing loosens the pressure of the clamp)
5. Remove airbox and MAF assembly as one piece (MAF slides out of the large rubber piece that sits inside the plasitc thing right before the accordian type throttle body piece)
6. Remove MAF assembly from airbox by removing the bolts (I removed the bolts from the airbox prior to removing the assembly which is a PITA, so just remove the airbox/MAF as one piece, it will be 100x easier)
7. Bolt new MAF assembly onto airbox
8. Put the MAF/airbox assembly back into the car, tighten that O-ring clamp, bolt airbox back in.
9. Connect power connector to MAF
10. Put battery back in, connect positive.
11. Wait 1-2 hrs, reconnect battery negative, start, good to go
06-27-2005, 03:03 PM
#14
Nice write-up... if ya need pictures of the MAF and pieces around it, there are some good ones in Audtatious' intake write-up:
http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html
http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html
06-27-2005, 03:47 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
well, i got the new housing w/ the green dot. is this all i need to put in, in place of the old housing im going to remove?
it doesnt look like theres a small wire running throught the middle of this housing.
So when you say you can replace just the maf,or the housing also,i thought they were one in the same
edit for clarity: So im not just taking out the old,putting in the new? I have to remove the actual sensor wire from the old one, and put it into the new housing w/ the green dot. I have a 2001 btw. Guavo thanks for that writeup
it doesnt look like theres a small wire running throught the middle of this housing.
So when you say you can replace just the maf,or the housing also,i thought they were one in the same
edit for clarity: So im not just taking out the old,putting in the new? I have to remove the actual sensor wire from the old one, and put it into the new housing w/ the green dot. I have a 2001 btw. Guavo thanks for that writeup
06-27-2005, 04:54 PM
#16
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Sorry about that, I was using MAF when I should have been using "MAF sensor" as "MAF sensor" + "MAF housing" = "MAF Nissan Part"
Not really sure on the new design with the wire, didn't look very closely... just wanted to swap it in and get back to driving...
The nissan recommended way is to swap the entire assembly housing and all... but since the housing's are basically identical, I just swapped the MAF sensor, since it is a less involved but more risky process... (The MAF sensor is a fairly sensitive/expensive piece of electronics, so swapping the entire assembly is safer than swapping just the sensor, plus they can charge more to replace it at the dealership
)
Not really sure on the new design with the wire, didn't look very closely... just wanted to swap it in and get back to driving...
The nissan recommended way is to swap the entire assembly housing and all... but since the housing's are basically identical, I just swapped the MAF sensor, since it is a less involved but more risky process... (The MAF sensor is a fairly sensitive/expensive piece of electronics, so swapping the entire assembly is safer than swapping just the sensor, plus they can charge more to replace it at the dealership
)
06-28-2005, 01:18 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
did you get yours from courtesynissan? and its the $79 part correct?
Im thinking ive seen pics of the maf housing with the wire element running through the middle inside of it....this part i got does not have this wire,its just the housing. I have a 2001 and understand this is what i need, not the 400 dollar joint.
Pics coming soon
Im thinking ive seen pics of the maf housing with the wire element running through the middle inside of it....this part i got does not have this wire,its just the housing. I have a 2001 and understand this is what i need, not the 400 dollar joint.
Pics coming soon
06-28-2005, 01:31 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Nice write-up... if ya need pictures of the MAF and pieces around it, there are some good ones in Audtatious' intake write-up:
http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html
http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html
06-28-2005, 03:51 AM
#19
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 1,097
Mine got fried, took it to Nissan and they reset my ECU so my car started to stall. Then I picked up a use MAF that someone had and was working fine. I dropped it in and she ran like a champ, a few days after a code is being thrown and car is running sluggish again.
Could this be due to the fact this used MAF was just lying around? Or something else?
Could this be due to the fact this used MAF was just lying around? Or something else?
06-28-2005, 06:20 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
Originally Posted by TDotMax
Mine got fried, took it to Nissan and they reset my ECU so my car started to stall. Then I picked up a use MAF that someone had and was working fine. I dropped it in and she ran like a champ, a few days after a code is being thrown and car is running sluggish again.
Could this be due to the fact this used MAF was just lying around? Or something else?
Could this be due to the fact this used MAF was just lying around? Or something else?
06-28-2005, 06:23 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
Oh, almost forgot to post what i came here for...... After many maf posts, i believe i answered my own question. My $79 courtesynissan maf (the housing/the whole thing) needs to be installed in place of my current garbage maf. The wire element i was asking about is not inside the maf for a 2001 max, so im not missing something and i dont need to start mixing and matching parts from old and new mafs. sounds right??????
06-28-2005, 06:49 AM
#22
Originally Posted by sooner02r1
Man, I've got a 2002 and my MAF blew, bought a new 2001 MAF from DaveB, no ECU flash, no nothing, and it runs like a champ. DaveB said to not worry about the remap or anything like that. Enjoy.
Good to hear.
06-28-2005, 07:56 AM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
They did redesign the MAF, I think the wire is in the new MAF sensor, it's a little more protected. (The new one was substantially longer and had a grey piece on the end which may have been to protect the wire)... I was just saying that it is easier to swap sensors since the housing is identical for both parts... but if you haven't cleaned your airbox recently, may as well take that out and shake it out... then swap the whole MAF assembly.
I actually purcahsed my part from the local stealership for $131 (which includes a 10% discount) + tax... Ordered from an online place and after a week they had not shipped it, so I just decided to go and get one yesterday... (I tried unsuccessfully to clean it on saturday). Car running > $50 saved and no car for a few days....
To truely diagnose the problem of it being the MAF, disconnect power from the MAF sensor and start the engine... The engine should sound good, but should not be able to go past 2.5k. If the engine sounds like crap with the MAF disconnected from power, it is probably something else that is wrong with it. With most of the bad MAF sensors, I think that they aren't fried, just passing really bad data to the ECU, and 30 or so seconds after crank the ECU just ignores the MAF.
I actually purcahsed my part from the local stealership for $131 (which includes a 10% discount) + tax... Ordered from an online place and after a week they had not shipped it, so I just decided to go and get one yesterday... (I tried unsuccessfully to clean it on saturday). Car running > $50 saved and no car for a few days....
To truely diagnose the problem of it being the MAF, disconnect power from the MAF sensor and start the engine... The engine should sound good, but should not be able to go past 2.5k. If the engine sounds like crap with the MAF disconnected from power, it is probably something else that is wrong with it. With most of the bad MAF sensors, I think that they aren't fried, just passing really bad data to the ECU, and 30 or so seconds after crank the ECU just ignores the MAF.
06-28-2005, 08:05 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
my whole concern was do i need to take out something from the old one and put it inthe new one? I didnt want to do this whole process and miss that step, but i dont have to apparently,so im good hopefully.
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
06-28-2005, 09:20 AM
#25
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Originally Posted by instil
my whole concern was do i need to take out something from the old one and put it inthe new one? I didnt want to do this whole process and miss that step, but i dont have to apparently,so im good hopefully.
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
The first method I described involves removing the old MAF sensor (The piece that sticks into the plastic tube) from the car without disassembling the intake and just putting the new MAF sensor in place of the old one. It's more or less like replacing an air filter... pull the old one out, put the new one in. 5-10 minute job...
The second method involves removing the whole old MAF assembly (Sensor + Housing) out of the car and putting the entire new MAF assembly in it's place.
The second method is the nissan recommended method and haynes described, but the second method is much more involved in terms of time... (Especially if you do it the easier but more time consuming way involving removing the airbox)
06-28-2005, 09:48 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 460
yea i got that part. What confused me was when i saw a picture of someones maf, it mustve been for a 2k maybe because i could see the sensor element in the middle of the maf housing. So when i got my new maf, im looking for this wie in the middle and dont see it. I thought i got the wrong thing,or would have to put the sensor in my new one. I have a 2001, so i dont have that wire....thats where my confusion was. Im gonna take out the airbox and replace the whole maf housing wit my new one and clean out the airbox (if my incabin filter had bugs and leaves, you know that airbox is grimy)
10-10-2005, 12:50 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 497
Originally Posted by guavo
Replace the MAF and not the housing (5-10 minutes):
2. Disconnect power connector on MAF (Push the green thing on the connector down all the way vertically into housing and lock, at which point you can remove the connector easily... if you are worried about breaking it, just push down with your thumb)
3. Remove the two security screws on the old MAF. (I used the pliers method which resulted in lots of metal shavings and profanity)
4. Remove the old MAF by pulling it straight out
- There is an O-ring seal on it, so may need a little force to get it out
- I rotated it about 15 degrees so that I could get a more firm grip on it to remove it
Anybody else had similar problem?
Otherwise, I will have to follow the next way of removing the airbox and MAF tube altogether. I counted 5 bolts to the airbox assembly. Are there more? Is battery removal strictly necessary? I see that there is about an inch of room between the battery and the airbox. Is that enough?
I am surprised that factory manual has NO instructions on how to replace the MAF sensor or the tube. Shouldn't there be procedure and assigned standard labor hoursfor that repair?
Any help or encouragement would be appreciated!
- Vikas
10-10-2005, 01:47 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Birmingham,AL (Roebuck)
Posts: 130
What are the simptoms of a bad MAF (or one that's gone bad). My 2000 se is not stalling, but it does shutter when coming to a stop or taking off from a stop. Also what is the cost for a new one.
10-10-2005, 03:59 PM
#29
Originally Posted by instil
my whole concern was do i need to take out something from the old one and put it inthe new one? I didnt want to do this whole process and miss that step, but i dont have to apparently,so im good hopefully.
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
thanks a lot guavo for all the answers;now thats how you cop some reputation points
07-09-2006, 05:54 AM
#32
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 25
I just started the MAF replacement
Hey guys, just started my MAF replacement, just looking for some tips on the install... 01 Maxima SE
I just unhooked my battery so the car will completely be dead in like another 20 mins. Any help on this would greatly be appreciated, becuase I need the car later today:
1- unhook car battery and let car die
2- Start on 4 bolts and harness around MAF
3- Pull off MAF sensor cable on top of MAF
4- Take out old MAF
5- Reverse install new MAF
6- Hook all wires into MAF
7- Tighten Bolts
8- Plug in battery after 2 hours
9- Hopefully enjoy better performing Maxima...
This is pretty much it? Any steps that I might be forgetting...
I don't plan to flash ECU or anything, just replace the part with the car not seeing it (no battery hooked up)... So it should run fine?
I'm also planning on getting to the TB and cleaning it while I'm under the hood...
Any help would seriously be helpful
-Thanks
I just unhooked my battery so the car will completely be dead in like another 20 mins. Any help on this would greatly be appreciated, becuase I need the car later today:
1- unhook car battery and let car die
2- Start on 4 bolts and harness around MAF
3- Pull off MAF sensor cable on top of MAF
4- Take out old MAF
5- Reverse install new MAF
6- Hook all wires into MAF
7- Tighten Bolts
8- Plug in battery after 2 hours
9- Hopefully enjoy better performing Maxima...
This is pretty much it? Any steps that I might be forgetting...
I don't plan to flash ECU or anything, just replace the part with the car not seeing it (no battery hooked up)... So it should run fine?
I'm also planning on getting to the TB and cleaning it while I'm under the hood...
Any help would seriously be helpful
-Thanks
07-09-2006, 08:19 AM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 25
MAF install procedure w/ Pics
Hey guys, just finished under the hood of my Max w/ my camera....
Got some questions about specific install...
I tried to get to the MAF today, and found out that to get the 4th bolt on the MAF I would have to take the whole assembly (Air Filter + more) to get to the bolt.... Is there a tool to get that last bolt? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and remove the whole assembly? If that's the case, then I need help from others that have done it... What's the least amount of cables I need to unclamp or unplug, and where are all the bolts?
Here are pics
These are the 4 bolts to start with...
And the 5th 10mm bolt to get this whole assembly piece off...
Do I need to undo this Blue connector? It looks like I should, but if I don't, then I don't want to unplug more than I should...
And then push in to release the MAF sensor plug right? And I don't have to unscrew these Torx, becuase I bought a new MAF w/ sensor already in it...
I unplugged my battery 1 hour prior to starting to mess w/ anything... but am I going overboard?? Should I just unplug negative terminal and work on car w/ the positive still connected... I figured better safe than sorry...
Let me know if this is what you guys did... I've searched and searched for Maxima MAF install guides, and nothing is really step by step... I've found a link for an 00 MAF install but... I just get 1 still picture with a bunch of arrows and then pages of text telling me what to do... but no step by step pictures...
Any help would be great
Thanks
Got some questions about specific install...
I tried to get to the MAF today, and found out that to get the 4th bolt on the MAF I would have to take the whole assembly (Air Filter + more) to get to the bolt.... Is there a tool to get that last bolt? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and remove the whole assembly? If that's the case, then I need help from others that have done it... What's the least amount of cables I need to unclamp or unplug, and where are all the bolts?
Here are pics
These are the 4 bolts to start with...
And the 5th 10mm bolt to get this whole assembly piece off...
Do I need to undo this Blue connector? It looks like I should, but if I don't, then I don't want to unplug more than I should...
And then push in to release the MAF sensor plug right? And I don't have to unscrew these Torx, becuase I bought a new MAF w/ sensor already in it...
I unplugged my battery 1 hour prior to starting to mess w/ anything... but am I going overboard?? Should I just unplug negative terminal and work on car w/ the positive still connected... I figured better safe than sorry...
Let me know if this is what you guys did... I've searched and searched for Maxima MAF install guides, and nothing is really step by step... I've found a link for an 00 MAF install but... I just get 1 still picture with a bunch of arrows and then pages of text telling me what to do... but no step by step pictures...
Any help would be great
Thanks
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
10
06-16-2019 01:35 AM
kjlouis
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
11
11-24-2018 06:09 AM