Brake gurus, need some guidance
#1
Brake gurus, need some guidance
I posted a thread a while back where my driverside rear brake mysteriously finished from approx 30 percent material left, in one night of heavy driving.
So, I changed out the pads and everything has been fine. Yesterday after a 1 hour plus drive, including braking from almost triple digits, I arrive at my destination and notice the rear driverside brake was superhot, compared to other sides (even the rim was uncomfortable to touch).
This is what I did to troubleshoot and want advice on change caliper/ not caliper/other option.
With the wheel off and can turn the rotor, I step on the brake then release and then cannot turn the rotor as easy. The brake seem still engaged. I tried this a few times and after turning the rotor back and forth after a step on the brake I would be able to turn the rotor normally again.
Would you guys agree that the caliper needs replacing?
Can I get some advice from people that have replaced their calipers before? I've never bled brakes before but have an idea?
Is there anything I can try to un-seize the caliper?
sorry for the lenghty post
thanks
So, I changed out the pads and everything has been fine. Yesterday after a 1 hour plus drive, including braking from almost triple digits, I arrive at my destination and notice the rear driverside brake was superhot, compared to other sides (even the rim was uncomfortable to touch).
This is what I did to troubleshoot and want advice on change caliper/ not caliper/other option.
With the wheel off and can turn the rotor, I step on the brake then release and then cannot turn the rotor as easy. The brake seem still engaged. I tried this a few times and after turning the rotor back and forth after a step on the brake I would be able to turn the rotor normally again.
Would you guys agree that the caliper needs replacing?
Can I get some advice from people that have replaced their calipers before? I've never bled brakes before but have an idea?
Is there anything I can try to un-seize the caliper?
sorry for the lenghty post
thanks
#2
You need to replace that rear caliper. Nothing complicated - just remove the caliper pins and the banjo bolt that holds the brake hose to the caliper (you might want to break that free before taking the caliper off the car). The new caliper (rebuilt) will include a new washer for the banjo bolt (if it doesn't, make sure you buy one).
Rebuilt calipers (rear) will run you 70-100 bucks.
Just as an FYI: I have read that you should replace the calipers in pairs (i.e. replace both rears). I am not sure why - as long as the other caliper is not binding.. but perhaps there is some merit to replacing both - even braking, etc.
You might need to replace the pads again - depending on how badly they have been worn because of the binding caliper. Also check the rotors.
Cheers.
Rebuilt calipers (rear) will run you 70-100 bucks.
Just as an FYI: I have read that you should replace the calipers in pairs (i.e. replace both rears). I am not sure why - as long as the other caliper is not binding.. but perhaps there is some merit to replacing both - even braking, etc.
You might need to replace the pads again - depending on how badly they have been worn because of the binding caliper. Also check the rotors.
Cheers.
#4
Originally Posted by woosh
njmodi,
The cheapest I've been quoted for a remanufactured caliper is $268 (DaveB)
Where can I get it for $70 - 100? Are you talking from junk yard?
The cheapest I've been quoted for a remanufactured caliper is $268 (DaveB)
Where can I get it for $70 - 100? Are you talking from junk yard?
#5
I had two rear brake calipers installed two months ago, because the right rear seized as a result of me not using the parking brake for years. Use of the parking brake forces the caliper piston in further. I was advised by a number of brake shops to replace both calipers to ensure even braking. Replace the brake pads while you are at it and remember to use the parking brake.
When you buy rebuilt calipers, you return your old calipers for a credit - don't keep them.
When you buy rebuilt calipers, you return your old calipers for a credit - don't keep them.
#6
Murdoch,
I'm guessing you went with a non-nissan brand on the replacement? Do you know which brand you got? Were there any fitment issues?
njmodi,
Which brand did you get from partsamerica?
cardone, bendix, ???
thanks
I'm guessing you went with a non-nissan brand on the replacement? Do you know which brand you got? Were there any fitment issues?
njmodi,
Which brand did you get from partsamerica?
cardone, bendix, ???
thanks
#7
Originally Posted by woosh
Murdoch,
I'm guessing you went with a non-nissan brand on the replacement? Do you know which brand you got? Were there any fitment issues?
njmodi,
Which brand did you get from partsamerica?
cardone, bendix, ???
thanks
I'm guessing you went with a non-nissan brand on the replacement? Do you know which brand you got? Were there any fitment issues?
njmodi,
Which brand did you get from partsamerica?
cardone, bendix, ???
thanks
#8
njmodi,
Thanks for the info so far. One more question.
Is the cardone the exact physical dimension as the one replaced? I'm planning to change only one side and don't want the left and right to be visibly different.
thanks
Thanks for the info so far. One more question.
Is the cardone the exact physical dimension as the one replaced? I'm planning to change only one side and don't want the left and right to be visibly different.
thanks
#9
As I had suggested - you might want to consider replacing both - to make sure you get even braking. In the event you choose to replace only one, the calipers dimensions are the same, but the cardone ones (that I purchased for my 96) came in a black finish, as opposed to the silver finish on the original calipers that I replaced.
#10
You may not have to replace the caliper. Your slider (holds the outside pad) may just be sticking and needs to be re-greased. Unbolt the caliper and pull the slider off. The slider pins should have rubber boots over them and plenty of grease inside. I had a problem where one of my boots was torn and allowed one of the pins to rust. I hope this description is adequate.
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