This has happened a couple of different times. Last year my car would stall out when coming to stops, and shortly after i threw codes to have an ignition coil replaced. So I replaced them which helped for a bit, and then it started stalling again with no codes being thrown. I had my mechanic clean the TB and MAF, and haven't had any problems until a couple of months ago when it started again but very sporadically. I again got the codes for the ignition coils so I replaced all of the other ones. Now it seems that I'm stalling out even more than I was before I had them replaced. Has anyone else had this problem before or after replacing coils. Should I clean the TB again / or the MAF. Thanks to all for your help.

 

This happened to me have u checked your spark plugs? i replaced my coils and the spark plug burned out. Did u replace the coils with the UPDATED ones?

 

I replaced all coils with the updated ones as well as replaced all of the spark plugs. i thought and was hoping that my problem would be solved.

 

MAF?

Mine stalls once in a long while when I come to a stop, and a little more frequently right after startup. The dealer replaced all my ignition coils less than a year ago (Im at 71k miles now), and I did the spark plugs a few weeks ago. Last time I was at the dealer a few weeks ago, I told them about the stalling and they reset the base idle and it hasnt stalled yet but it still doesnt idle right. Now it seems like it just catches itself before its about to stall, and raises up from a couple hundred back to normal idle. Im hoping a new MAF from DaveB will fix it, and even more hopeful that my max will feel new again with a new MAF, as many have said it will. Im guessing that, yes, cleaning the tb, and the MAF, will pretty much solve it.

 

maybe ur MAF is bad i dunno ??

 

This is a shot in the dark: IACV - do you try cleaning or replacing the idle air control valve. That could cause the same symptoms and likely no codes...

 

I spoke too soon. As I was pulling up to a red light about 5 min ago, pushed the clutch and was going to stop using only the brake, not downshifting, next thing i know i look down and im at 0 rpms. Ill post back when I get the MAF soon and let you know if thet did it.

 

Does it only stall when you take you're foot off the throttle?

If so, could be a bad IACV as mentioned above. The valve could be stuck so that no air gets to the engine when the throttle is closed, causing it to stall out.

 

It's just as the guy described above. If i stop without down shifting, just in neutral with the brake is when it occurs. It doesn't happen all of the time, just randomly. This makes it hard to diagnose. Thanks again.

 

Mine, and I think most everyone elses, happens when coming to a stop, when off the throttle. Mine also happens at startup sometimes, when I also don't have my foot on the throttle, and occasionally for mine, if it starts to happen at start up and I see it happening, I give the throttle a slight tap and it settles back to idle.

 

hey KPR10is, have you got your new MAF in yet? If so, any changes or still stalling? Let me know b/c i'm trying to figure out what to do... Thanks again.

 

My car was dropping idle too far and would stutter and stall out. It turns out I had the weak MAF and replaced it with a new one and I even paid the $100 for the dealer to update the computer for the new MAF unit. I've not had the problem since.
DaveB can get you an MAF really cheap ($85ish), and I got mine from a dealership in Arizona. Great guys.

Good Luck

 

This happens to me about every 6 months. Clean your throtle body. It works for me eveytime.

 

My car is now displaying these symptoms, stalling intermittently or almost stalling in park. It will also intermittently stall when I put it in drive. Did the new MAF fix the stalling issues you guys had (kpr10is, 2248)?

 

sounds a bit more IAC-ish to me. especially if it isnt accompanied by a power loss.

try a test drive with the MAF unplugged and see if it still stalls.

 

Does the car even run with the MAF unplugged? How is it meant to calculate the mixtures without the MAF data?

 

it uses pre programmed 'defaults'... the ECM knows when something is wrong, so rather than rely on a signal it knows is false, it goes into FMEM and uses a guesstimated airflow based on TP, RPM, ECT, IAT, etc....

basically, youre forcing the ECM to use a 'correct' airflow rather than a faulty one. throttle response will be horrible, but if the MAF is failed, it wont stall. if it still stalls, look elsewhere (i.e., the IAC )

 

what year is your car? if its a 2k it could be the coils

 

without any other driveability issues?

 

What is the price of that IACV and how difficult is it to change? I have similar problems when coming to a stop my car will almost always stall out or drop very close to 0 rpms then catch itself. If I throw it in neutral without brakes way before I come to a stop then the idle will drop normally and stop around 550-600rpms. I have a new MAF and Coil packs

 

This sounds like what my mechanic friend has told me.

I start the car, it idles erratically, then dies, and doesn't acknowledge the gas pedal the entire time.

-then-

I had unplugged the MAF sensor, and the results are the same.

Dealership says the problem is my MAF. Are they right?

TIA!

 

Same problem here - however i also have po420 po430 codes in my ecu... working on getting a new cat (rear) and a y-pipe that eliminates one of the front cats (i hear they are bad for the environment anyway ) also ordered a new MAF , an intake - and i'm gonna throw some new plugs in her -- IM at 150k 150,000 miles >.< its a 2000 cali spec btw..

oh - the car also doesnt seem to want to die when the AC is turned on - guess thats normal ?

UPDATE:
Just cleaned my throttle body and ran some Seafoam in it... OK I ran SEAfoam first - car idled muich better than it ever has. ... then i opened up the intake and got at the throttle body to clean her up... done -- NOW however - it still kinda wants to die when i rev it and let the RPMs drop - not all the time - occasionally it will catch and go to normal idle ... throttle response seems better and power seems nice - it doesnt die all of a sudden anymore when idleing - however it will if i rev and let it drop.

one thing i noticed when playing with her - is that if i hold the RPMs at 1500-2000 range - it will repeatadly rev like my old 92 GSX used to pulsating every second or so if i go up to 2000 rpms... it seems to climb RPM without any more throttle.. wierd... i have ordered a new MAF hopefully that might solve it --- i would have tested with the MAF unplugged - BUT - I CANT GET THE FREAKIN PLUG OFF ? anyone have a strategy (lol) for this???

Everyone talks about the IACV - I can't find it at all - i can find the TPS (between TB and Firewall in obvious location) i can find the MAF , but for the life of me i can't locate the IACV

A friend told me that these year's ECUs burn out the IACV all the time...

/cry

 

My car wont die with the AC on either, but sure as hell will cut off when its hot outside at a stop sign in the middle of the ghetto.

 

bumpity bump

 

hard to say, there maybe two issues. if you disconnect the maf, the car should start and hold an idle if the maf is your only problem.

if you crack the throttle, (about ¼ or so) and then start the car, will it run fine?

 

Same problems here, I'm thinking of cleaning the TB again and the MAF for that matter. A while ago I cleaned the TB and it Ran like a champ, for a time that is. Now it's stalling all over again + now the idle fluctuates. I wonder if I can hit the MAF with some brake clean (uninstalled of course), doesn’t leave any residue, do u guys think it would damage the MAF???


P.S. A flat head skrew driver, push down on the tab with the little arrow until it is completely depressed, the plug will pop right off.

 

i wouldnt spray ANYTHING on the maf

it cleans itself by going through a burn cycle after you shut the key off.

 

I disconnected the maf after the car shut off on the freeway and it didn't seem to change the problem at all. I can't get the car to hold an idle no matter what I do.

That's what really concerns me about the results of the diagnosis the dealership performed. I had them perform the crank and cam sensor recall, but they say it's the MAF causing me problems.

I'm going to tow the Max back to my house today because, even if it is the MAF that's bad, I should be able to fix it for much cheaper than the $800 the dealership wants to charge me.

Once I get it back, I'll try the 1/4 throttle start.

Thanks,

 

cool, let us know what you find.

 

Ok, I went to the dealership at 3:30 pm, they close at 4:00 pm. The service advisor was rude when I told him I wanted to see my car, but grudgingly consented to my request.

I started it, and voila!, it idles a lot better than before the sensor recall, contrary to ALL my phone conversations with the service advisor.

The car is definitely in "limp mode" and is sitting in my driveway with the negative battery cable disconnected.

Quick question though. Do I just have to wait a couple hours, then reconnect to clear the code? A co-worker of mine told me I should disconnect the cables for a while, then touch them together to clear the memory.

PS This is why I hate dealerships.

Much thanks to the org!

 

UPDATE - Tried the Unplugging MAF sensor trick - Car holds Idle perfectly - MAF is on it's way I'll let you all know if that helps me or not - Question for anyone watching the thread - Will a Bad MAF throw Tuning off enough to burn out a Cat ? maybe it's just the 150k miles - or maybe it was the MAF - either way it's all gettin fixed soon - I'll keep it updated...

thanks for all the help guyz





Cute and effective :
http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/posting.php

 

reset the PCM as specified in the FAQ/How-tos.

 

Do you mean Reset the PCM after installing the new MAF ? or just try resetting the pcm ?

thanks bewst

 

that was directed towards Warder, sorry i didnt specify

 

OK- Got the NEW MAF in place - holds idle, accelerates, decelerates like a champ - if it starts acting up again i'm blowing it up. Ok now for some beer.

w00t

 

Ok, I ordered and received the 2k1 MAF sensor from Dave B. Transferred the thermister, installed it, reset the ECU, and the car runs good as new again!

Thanks again to the .org and specifically to BewstAdd1ct for all your help.

I saved over $700 on this one.

 

no problem

 

You know, I just got a 2K Maxima the other day and I experienced the same problem. I put it into neutral and coast to a stop on red lights and my engine stalls. Also, when I'm parked and I rev my engine (to say 3-4000 RPM) and I let go of the throttle immediately it usually drops down to 3-400 RPM and saves itself and idles at 650-700 RPM. But my old man decided to clean the throttle body. He took off the hose that links the intake box to the motor and sprayed Valvoline throttle body cleaner into it (a lot of the stuff) then he took out the air filter and sprayed it into the intake (crap, he even sprayed the MAF without knowing it!) now the engine does not even idle right. the MAF is probably shot. It stalls A LOT now. I dunno what to do. Should I get a new MAF? I don't even know if the intake and the engine are ok anymore!

Please HELP!!!

 

Oh, how do you reset the ECU?

 

where do you go to check for codes?