Broken Bolt
Broken Bolt
Hi,
was trying to do my premier brake job - I was trying to remove the caliper bolts, and lo and behold, I ended up breaking them....... they were really tight and I found myself using a lot of force to loosen them...in the end, I probably snapped them off...
what options do i have.....a PepBoys service person told me I may need to replace the caliper - others told me they can be drilled out - which way is the best to go?
I have to move the car from the roadside where I was working to the garage..is it safe to move / drive it?
cheers - N
was trying to do my premier brake job - I was trying to remove the caliper bolts, and lo and behold, I ended up breaking them....... they were really tight and I found myself using a lot of force to loosen them...in the end, I probably snapped them off...
what options do i have.....a PepBoys service person told me I may need to replace the caliper - others told me they can be drilled out - which way is the best to go?
I have to move the car from the roadside where I was working to the garage..is it safe to move / drive it?
cheers - N
Did you break both on one side or just one on each side? If one on each side you can put it back togeather using one bolt just to get it into the garage but be ever so light on them. but if both are broke then i dont know what to tell you about moving it because as soon as you step on the brakes without the rotor in between the pads the piston will probably come completly out requiring a new caliper. As for to replace or drill out i dont know what i would do. to drill out you would almost have to remove the caliper from the car to a work bench to drill so thats your call you will also need to die set to clean the threads after you drill it out if thats what you do.
The bolts can fuse to the threads at high operating temps (if anti-sieze was not applied). I know this from experience. Most of the time, they will just replace the calipers because its alot easier...but they can be drilled out.
I broke both on the left side....This is really ****ed up...I was thinking of replacing the caliper, but I'm not sure if that would help, because the broken piece is still attached to the pin boot (the little rubber spindle) that is connected to torque member.
what options do i have - replace the torque member?
cheers - N
what options do i have - replace the torque member?
cheers - N
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
The bolts can fuse to the threads at high operating temps (if anti-sieze was not applied). I know this from experience. Most of the time, they will just replace the calipers because its alot easier...but they can be drilled out.
is this a dealer item or i can get aftermarket?
cheers - N
Go to www.car-parts.com . A junk yard in your area might have a good one in stock. Not worth paying a brand new caliper from the dealer.
Nissan sells caliper slider (pins) separately, go ask for 4 new pins- I dunno if your passanger side ones came apart ez or not. Ask for new pins and bolts 4 of each and you will be set. There was a set of 02 Calipers on Ebay for 50 bux, SET. I know cause I'm looking for a new set of rear calipers since it looks like one of my rear ones is seized up and its not wearing the pads even with the other side. 120K miles will do that to the caliper, and I can't complain.
Bolt remover
I've had the same problem, something similar with my rear calipers.
You can buy tools at lowes or home depo that can be used to remove the bolt. You drill a guiding hole in, then use a special "screw remover" to get them out. I havent had much luck and I'm going to try again in a few weeks. They're just in there so dang tough its hard to do. On another note my plan B is to drill it out and re-tread it. Again going to be another week or 2 but the bits and such only cost maybe 5-10 bucks and the replacement studs etc you can but that work. I'm trying to avoid the dealership obviously or any other place that charges an hour or 2 of labor for such a job.
Just my 2 cents good luck buddy.
You can buy tools at lowes or home depo that can be used to remove the bolt. You drill a guiding hole in, then use a special "screw remover" to get them out. I havent had much luck and I'm going to try again in a few weeks. They're just in there so dang tough its hard to do. On another note my plan B is to drill it out and re-tread it. Again going to be another week or 2 but the bits and such only cost maybe 5-10 bucks and the replacement studs etc you can but that work. I'm trying to avoid the dealership obviously or any other place that charges an hour or 2 of labor for such a job.
Just my 2 cents good luck buddy.
i have ordered the pins and bolts from DaveB....quite cheap (bolts, $4 compared to $8-10 at local dealers; pins $7 compared to 13-16 at local dealers) +5 shipping...
Now, my difficulty is in getting the bolts out of the torque member on the left while so I can insert the pins; and to remove the right caliper bolts....WD40 and Liquid Wrench have not helped....I might end up taking it to a shop for them to remove them, and then do the install myself...
I'm not sure if these brakes have ever been worked on or if an anti-seize has ever been applied, but men, those bolts are stubborn ! Once they are removed, I will apply anti-seize on them before putting them back on !
cheers and good luck.. Noela.
Now, my difficulty is in getting the bolts out of the torque member on the left while so I can insert the pins; and to remove the right caliper bolts....WD40 and Liquid Wrench have not helped....I might end up taking it to a shop for them to remove them, and then do the install myself...
I'm not sure if these brakes have ever been worked on or if an anti-seize has ever been applied, but men, those bolts are stubborn ! Once they are removed, I will apply anti-seize on them before putting them back on !
cheers and good luck.. Noela.
Originally Posted by Noela
Now, my difficulty is in getting the bolts out of the torque member on the left while so I can insert the pins; and to remove the right caliper bolts....WD40 and Liquid Wrench have not helped....I might end up taking it to a shop for them to remove them, and then do the install myself...
Just get a long breaker bar, or put a piece of pipe over your breaker bar or ratchet to get more leverage and it should break loose.
yeah, thanks for the tip..i realized my rachet was too small...., i probably need to get something a bit bigger and approach the bolt from under the car, instead of kneeling outside and attempting to reach behind the rotors and turn the bolts...would getting under the car flat be the way to do it this with more leverage?
cheers - Noela
cheers - Noela
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