siren001

recently my 01 has started to jerk when the engine is cold and you try to go before its at normal operating temp, once its in the normal range i drives normal.

any ideas?

MaxBlu5

It could be something in your fuel system that is causing it. My car also does it, but its been doing it since I bought the car in April so I always just assumed it was normal, until now after reading your post. Maybe a fuel system cleaner will work?

Rob01ski

Are you auto or manual, could be tranny if auto same thing is happening to me, and i have auto, how many miles you got on the car?

siren001

auto, I have 65,000 miles on it.

siren001

but why would it only do it when the engine is cold until it warms up? MAF? you think the dealership could tell you what the matter or not enough time to diag. before warms up.

NYPD-Arnold

iTrader: (8)

This most certainly has nothing to do with the MAF.

siren001

tranny going out? battery not enough juice

paralyse

Coolant temp. sensor or IACV.
If no codes are stored, start looking at your coils.

siren001

there is no code's no SES light, the only occassional light is P140,
how do you check ignition coils? Sorry that might be a dummy question.

siren001

Any how-to's on changing them? or at least pictures.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

really easy to do.. try some seafoam in the tank and see what happens.. then go after the coils...take the engine cover.. the one that reads V6 etc.. and see if the coils has a grey dot.. if not you know you are using the old version of them.....

Rob01ski

i think its tranny cause if it was coils hed have it all the time not just when the car is cold, i have the same problem, does your shift hard at first then when it warms up its normal?

Cavez

Our VQ30 Maximas do that. Like my step moms does that during the winter when its really cold. itll jerk and stall unless you let it warm up for a minute. When I had my max, it did the same thing. It actually pissed me off caus the grand am I had before wouldn't do that. It's just a lil tempermental, that's all. My dads VQ35 doesn't do that though...strange.

Rob01ski

Huh since when mine never did that since i had it for four years until now AND ITS SUMMER, so im sure its the tranny, cause wellits taken alot of beating and is staring to go,

NYPD-Arnold

iTrader: (8)

No...they actually don't.

Cavez

We have had three....and when its 10 below outside....yes they do.

siren001

how could you be able to tell if its the tranny or not, you think changing the fluid would make a difference, i got a 100k mile bumper to bumper warranty on the car so i want to know what i am talking about if its gonna be covered if not covered ill do it myself.

instil

Mine does it too in the winter,but im in NJ. This guy is in Hawaii,how cold can it be?

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

There are A LOT of 5th gen w/ this problem including mine. I've read plenty of threads on this topic as well. I wouldn't worry about it.

BewstAdd1ct

sounds to me like an atomization issue. why dont you try a carbon blast for starters. its free and likely the cause. carbon on the back of intake valves to a good job of soakingup fuel, which means its getting into the cyliner in bigger drops, if it makes it there at all. obviously we need to run a litle rich for cold start...

just a thought, might give a try before you go throwing money at something that may not be causing the problem

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Does it go into the fast idle? So it just runs crappy until it warms up?

I don't think it's the tranny or fuel injectors. Problems with these will occur when cold also. Same with the maf.

igzy

iTrader: (18)

I had this happen to me too during winter. I would just take it easy until tranny warmed up and no probs later. I have not had probs like this in the summer...

Also, have you ever changed your tranny oil?

BewstAdd1ct

a trans can have a low fluid level and then have just enough to perform fine when its warm, but this is of course assuming that hes checked all the basics.

and not so much a fuel injector problem, but a fuel 'in general' problem

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

How do you know the tranny temps rise at the exact same rate as the engine?

If it was fuel problem in "general", then generally he would have problems all the time, no?

rule da road

wow, it would be a shame if it was the same problem i had and u focused on the tranny. Same exact thing used to happen to me, it wuold jerk once maybe twice before getting warm. I repaired what was causing a P1130 code and problem hasnot happend since. Dealership spend about 1/2 hr rerouting my intake hoses. I would do it again and so should you. Get the code taken care of completely.

BewstAdd1ct

who said anything about rate of increase

all i said was the level of the trans fluid increases with temperature

not necessarily. did you read my earlier post?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Because the poster said all if fine the minute the car reaches operating temp. aka moves into closed loop mode. Now if it's the tranny temp, what are the chances that the tranny just happens to warm up the exact time time the engine moves into closed loop?

Please explain how a general fuel problem cold would not exhibit itself when warm? Especially when you don't want to attribute it to a cold start/ecu/sensor problem?

BewstAdd1ct

so, how long does an 02-03 maxima stay in closed loop under normal operating conditions? now, since hes checked all the basics like trans level and fluid condition (right?), we dont have to worry about it... its a moot point

but since you suggested that it might be a loop status issue, i dont really need to answer the following, you already did


but just do you know, i already did explain this. i can elaborate if you didnt get it

siren001

Where did they re-route your hoses?
I checked the tranny fluid both cold and hot, and its within and close to the highest fullest safe level.
But no more code is store in the computer. just the occasionall P0140 for o2 sensor 2nd bank.
Cleaned carbon inside throttle body last week but car has been doing this way before that.
Just trying everything I can think of to diagnose the problem.

pocyrus

Sounds like my symptoms. My 00SE (105k) started acting the same way over the winter. I thought it was the cold weather, but it continued (and worsened )the last two months. Now the car has all the signs of a bad MAF. It loses power @ 3-3500 rpm, or if I am travelling uphill. Actually, any time I try to push it, the power drops out from under my foot.

I thought it might be the tranny because the 1-2 shift is pretty rough, and sometimes it hesitates before downshifting on the highway. But when I popped the hood and opened the throttle by hand, I saw that the choke was opening wide stalling the engine. I was able to hold the choke closed while manually operating the throttle and it accelerated smooth as silk.

I am betting the MAF is bad, and will be ordering an '01 model this week. I would bet that you will find the same.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Yeah, carbon on the valves. Put it this way, does the carbon suddenly disappear when the car warms up??

BewstAdd1ct

ah, at least youre paying attention.


no, the carbon doesnt dissapear. two things happen.

one, once the car is warmed up, there is no need for cold start enrichment. a slight shortage in fuel can be corrected for by increasing fuel trim. when its cold, however, fuel is more likely to puddle, and adding to the already-fat fuel trim only worsens the problem.

and two, once the engine is warmed up, the valve and port area are much hotter. when fuel hits these areas, it doesnt tend to puddle. the metals are hot enough to keep the fuel from building up.


but to answer your question, no the carbon doesnt suddenly dissapear. and then, of course, reappear after it cools down again.


then again, his issue could be something completely different like a mapping issue or a stuck ECT

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

If it's puddling, it's not getting into the cylinder. And since the open loop doesn't add more fuel how could it be richer? If it's not getting into the cylinder, it's leaner correct?

waytoostock00

my car has been doing the same thing for a couple of weeks now, since it only happens when it's cold i was thinkin of changing the fuel filter, this is something i had already planned on doing eventually now ill just do it a little sooner. i also plan on changin the plugs now that i have more than 100,000 miles and my gas millage sucks. just thought i'd give some input . good luck with the problem

BewstAdd1ct

no sir, incorrect. if its puddling from being absorbed, then part of the fuel is making it into the engine in larger droplets. larger droplets dont mix with the air too well and cause the rough running and incomplete burn. in the exhaust, we have a bit of raw fuel (wihch will show up on a sniffer as HCs) and some oxygen that hasnt mated with said fuel. this excess in oxygen causes an inaccurate o2 reading.


...enjoy

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Open loop uses the 02 sensor? Enjoy

BewstAdd1ct

newer cars only stay in open loop for like 30 seconds or so in normal weather....


im led to believe that the problem is lasting longer than the first 30s-1m of startup...

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

So you have confirmed this with your obdII scanner/sensor monitor correct?

30 seconds is way to short of a time for an engine to warmed up enough. But with the advent of pre-cats maybe that's true. So let's say "yes" for now.

But the person said "once it's warmed up it's okay". So whatever time that is, it drives okay when it's warm. BUT engines typically don't enter closed loop until the engine is warm enough to run the closed loop 02 programs.

So if that is the case, you would be correct in the sense that the 02 is in the picture. But you would be INCORRECT in the sense that the engine would be still cold and this wondrous "puddling" problem would be the problem. Because the engine would no longer be cold correct? Enjoy

BewstAdd1ct

correct.

its enough to light off the catalyst and get the o2s up to temp. the EPA wont let a vehicle mfg write an OBDII program that keeps dumping fuel into the exhaust longer than necessary.

the temperature of the o2 sensor is the only thing that dictates when the sensor is ready to provide an accurate reading. yes, your 92 and my 91 stay in open loop a bit longer, its a different tune with newer vehicles.


engine can still be cold, and run with a closed loop strategy. different map adjustments for different ECT inputs


...enjoy

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Cool which obdII scanner do you have?

Here is a description of a maxima 02 sensor. Should be an obdII description.
In order to test it's function, it instructs the user to wait until the engine is at operating temp, not the 02 sensor. If the sensor is heated and ready before the engine is warmed up, no need to wait for the engine to reach operating temp. Because as you say, it should be able to run a closed loop program before the engine is warmed up 100%
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f4e84.jsp

Another issue is if this particular 5-gen uses a narrow or wideband 02 sensor. If the engine is too cold, the a/f ratios might be out of the normal operating range of a narrow band 2 sensor.