dvanorder

Anyone ideas why I would still get this? It's no different than before I replaced the coils. Plugs looked OK when I pulled them. Car seems to run fine, it never stumbled like the classic coil failure symptom. The car may go for hundreds of miles before SES pops up again. I took care of the updated MAF/PCM flash a few months ago.

During the spring I was getting O2 sensor P1034 during extended cruise. I figured it was a lazy sensor and would have Nissan replace it before 100K EW. 1034 has stopped, replaced with 1320. I use Chevron 93 religiously.

Gotta wonder if I have a sensor causing a false rich/lean condition. Crap.

Thanks--

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

P1320 is the ignition failure code right?

Did you replace the coils with updated coils (they should (unless something has changed) have a grey dot on the top of the coil packs) ?

You reset the ECU after replacing the coils?

Are there driveability issues or just the CEL is set?

dvanorder

Yup--coils from Dave B. have the gray dot. The SES light was out before I replaced the coils, it came on about 200 miles later. Car seems to drive just fine.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Try resetting the ECU and see if the light comes back.... you may want to follow up on that o2 sensor that posted a code before - perhaps there is a fuel mixture issue (as you suggest).

smaxut

Hello all, first off, thanks for these boards. I have been reading posts on here for the last year and the information has been great. I had the p1320 code along with p0302, so I decided to just replace all the coils instead of replacing them one at time when I see a misfire code. I also recently replaced the MAF. Before I replaced the MAF and the coils, my max was running erratically (low idle, misfire, ****ty gas mileage etc..) After replacing these parts and using OBD reader to clear my ECU, the P1320 came back on shortly after (about 3 days). Looking through the forums, I saw that the air intake temperature sensor may also be a cause for the P1320. I have replaced the IAT and continue to receive the code, with the addition of the p0420 now as well. The car itself is running great, if the SEL wasn't on, I would think everything is ok. Problem is, I need to get this SEL light off so I can pass emissions. Any ideas on the cause/resolution of this would be great. I am dreading taking this to a dealer to get resolved. Thanks

thefritz1

TTT I have the EXACT same problem.

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

Well if you wanna pass emissions have someone delete the check engine light or ses light right before you go into emissions lol i did it right infront of the place and the obd scanner was in the glove box hehehe

Love_00_Max

Unhook the battery all night. If it comes back then the wiring from the coil to the ECM has nicked somewhere -- be nice to the connectors, there is no second chance.

bwinter7

Really? I though that if you reset your ECU right before you go to pass smog, that when the guy reads your computer for the inspection station that it'll say "Not Ready" or something to that effect and fail you?

thefritz1

I have heard this as well...any other input guys? I have the exact same problem...did all plugs and coils and STILL getting the 1320 but no symptoms at ALL.

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

I'm throwing the P1320... well i was for about 3 days. The car ran great still, even with the SES light on. About 4 days ago, the SES light turned off. The car still runs the exact same way as before, no problems Any help would be appreciated

thefritz1

TTT if you

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

umm....... what was that?

Staticxout2

Can anyone help my coil packs are fudged i'm looking on the forum to find the best replacements. I went to autozone, autozone has them for 71.99 a piece...best price i've found so far, and the brand is duralast...don't know if i should get them or not what do you think?

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

Dave Burnett
Southpoint Nissan
1-888-254-6060
daveb@adpub.com

I think you can get them cheaper from him.

Staticxout2

thanks man much appreciated!

psmith08

I replaced my coils through Dave B - very happy with the service. Not happy with my car though. 2000 SE, 148K

Initial problem was P1320 code. Misfire on Cylinder #3. The car would hesitate badly on acceleration. The problem came and went intermittently. I had the tranny checked because it would sometimes thud into drive hard. The guy said it was fine. I had the fuel filter changed, nothing improved.

I researched the coil issues and since the symptoms were so exact to what I experienced I finally got around to ordering the coils. I replaced them all and also replaced the plugs. Nothing changed. I only disconnected the battery though to try to clear the ECU, wondering if I need to go somewhere to have it done or if I totally misdiagnosed this.

evi1maxima

iTrader: (1)

I also just started getting the 1320 ses light on my 2k maxima. well ive had this code on my 95 gst well after parts swapping on my dsm i replaced both o2 sensors and problem was solved so i would try the o2 sensors first. also another thing is that when the temps are in the 90-110 out side and my car warms up it runs fine which is telling me that the o2 sensor is prob the problem when its cold out it idles horrible which means the o2 sensor is out of range and when its hot outside then the extra heat is helping the o2 sensor get in the correct heat range to operate normally hope this helps out I'll post back after i install all new o2 sensors on my maxima

NJGSX96

Bringing this back from the dead since I cannot make posts of my own. I am having the same issue and searching through the posts seem to show no conclusion. What did you guys do to solve these issues? My girl has a 2000 Maxima. Got the SES for 1320, replaced the coils. Stumble went away but the SES didn't. Ended up geting a couple O2 sensor codes so I replaced those, still SES light for 1320. I checked voltage, resistance and current in the coils and wiring and all is in spec. I shook and bent the harnesses and no stumble. Car runs like a dream other then the SES light. What I have found is I can clear the code and drive the car all over and no SES. Turn it off and leave it off for 30 seconds. As soon as I start it, the light comes on. I can clear it, drive all over and again once I start her up a second time, SES. Any other ideas?

Of course inspection is due now so I am going to go fail tomorrow to buy some more time but I would love to fix this/solve this on my own and don't want to go to the dealer but I guess if I have to I will. Any ideas, help or other things to check would be greatly appreciated.

00MaximaGXE

Did you replace the Plugs too when you did the coils seems almost pointless to do one and not the other for me at least might as well since you have the coil out right?, even tho the #3 cyl was misfiring doesn't mean that the coil was the cause. What was the o2 sensor code? Maybe If I knew the code I could help you...Been there done that. Actually In MA if you delete the codes and go for an inspection, They pass you, a dealer screwed me over thats How I know..

NJGSX96

Yes, plugs were replaced with the coils, along with all the belts. O2 sensor codes were 0133 and 0140. At 120K miles I figure I may as well replace them all so have. As far as I know, in NJ the ECU has to be ready to pass.

NJGSX96

So I had the car today to bring to inspection. Figure I will give it an italian tune-up to dust off the cobwebs. Part throttle the car moves nice. I do anything more and it begins to stumble, almost likle fuel cut. I got WOT and it bogs down hard and goes nowhere, like a have a semi truck infront of me pushing it back. Now a buddy at work had the same trouble with his truck and it turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter. Could that be the issue? Could that throw a primary ignition signal SES light? Others are saying it could be injectors need replacing. Anyone else have some insight? Heard of the cat or injectors or anything else causing these symptoms or throwing a 1320 code?

P. Samson

Did you check out the condenser? The resistance should be over 1M ohms. I would also remove the crank position sensor (REF) (the one under the crankshaft accessory drive pulley), check it for damage/cracks and clean off the business end.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Lies, all lies.

jdm01se

Catalytic converter.

Trust me, I've been through that code inside and out like a **** with an **** fetish.
It's the funny looking converter right after your exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the car. It almost looks like a pimp cup.
For a small piece, it's pretty expensive.

NJGSX96

of course. it would be too easy if it was the catalytic converter downstream. it has to be the one off of the manifold. Is it part of the manifold or is it a seperate piece off the bottom of the manifold?

What about the MAF? I had someone with a Maxima tell me it might be that too. Seems they are common to replace but are these some of the symptoms? I'll have to do a search on them too.

On the bright side, when the car is driven like a sissy, how my girlfriend drives, it is fine. I'll have to let her borrow one of my cars so I can tear into her car this weekend or the next.

Thanks guys!

NJGSX96

Figured I would update this thread. I headed up to inspection today with my waiver. All it had to do was pass emissions. Of course it didn't. HC should have been 220 and it got a 296. CO% should have been 1.20 and it got a 3.83. He mentioned the higher HC could be something stupid like EGR but the CO% is most likely the cats. So I am going to clean up the MAT sensor, check out the EGR and crank sensor and place an order for the cat and pre-cat.

evi1maxima

iTrader: (1)

one of the cats is probably clogged, what I also would try and do is seafoam your car, helps with my random 1320 cel that I get every few months. and I've replaced almost everything but the cats.

NJGSX96

Well the other night I replaced the pre-cat and with it the 4th O2 sensor. Took it for a spin and the hesitation was worse with WOT. The light didn't come on though. I turned the car off and on 2 or 3 times on my 20 mile drive and nothing. I get home, check the computer, all good. Start the car to move it in to the garage and get the SES light. Sweet!

Tonight I cleaned the MAF with the CRC MAF cleaner and replaced the air filter. Go for a test drive and the car is much better on WOT now. It did a quick sputter on the first romp but was silky smooth the rest of the drive. Of course, still have the SES light. I also put in a can of the "guaranteed to pass" stuff. Figured it couldn't hurt.

I still have the rear cat to install. I didn't bother to attempt it since the bolts are rusted real nice. Then again, if I feel up to it, I may just slice them off and install it tomorrow night.

So my thinking is that with the brand new pre-cat, clean MAF sensor and air filter and overall better running car, coupled with the guaranteed to pass crap, I am hoping the sum of the parts is enough to get me through emissions. If I get to the rear cat, even better. I am keeping my fingers crossed.

I hate cars.

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

id say the old cats is what ****ing it up should of tried replacing the cat with a strait pipe first they're like 30 bucks of ebay

NJGSX96

To close this sucker out, the good news it that it passed emissions!!!!! YES!!!!! The combination of the MAF cleaning, pre-cat replacement and "guaranteed to pass" garbage worked. Standard HC is is 220, I previously failed with a 296 and this time passed with a 45. Standard CO% is 1.20, I previously failed with a 3.83 and this time passed with a 0.24. Looks like I can return the rear cat-con I bought and get some money back. The car drives worlds better too. Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and help.

Unfortunately, most good news comes with some bad and it looks like the car is leaking clutch fluid. I replaced the clutch slave cylinder since the old one was shot and it slowed the leak but it is still there. The clutch master looks ok visually but I will check out the whole system this week, see what is up.

VQpwrdSpeC

kind of a random question but will the 350z coil packs work on a 02 maxima 3.5? The part numbers are different but the pictures look the same.

lavoiest

NJGSX96 or anyone out there.

I have the same issue and I am starting down the same road as NJGSX96 or anyone else that has had this issue.

I have replaced coils and plugs same 1320. i also have the big bog when i try and get past 3500RPM. Should I just replace the CATS and O2's or should I do the MAF?

Help!!!! Thanks Everyone Gotta love the forums!!!!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would do MAF first, wow, this is an old thread

lavoiest

Yes, Old Thread but this issue keeps coming back to kick in people in the A**.

I just created an account and cannot make a new thread so I had to attach to this one. Also, this is exactly what I am having for an issue but the thread gets me real close to the finsh line but it ends without a full ending of what was the real issue.

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh............................. ..

Thanks..

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I would still say MAF.

Kyle00

iTrader: (5)

call up Dave Burnett and get yourself a MAF

lavoiest

MAF it is.

I hope this is it! I am getting pretty frustrated with this issue. As most of you probably already know how I feel!

Thanks again everyone.

jdm01se

/thread

lavoiest

?? what do you mean??

me no understand