when people get new engines free of charge, they dont complain.

also, a new complete engine doesnt come with an intake pipe, it would have to be inspected. if that were the case, then theyd KNOW where the oil was coming from

 

1) Modern engines are broken in from the factory so the piston rings are already seated. Unless something went wrong when Nissan broke it in.

2) Get a new one via the LEMON LAW - this may apply to you case, or it may not. This engines are bulletproof and if they burn oil it isn't normal

 

All those that responded with "no burning here", does that mean that when you change the oil and drop what remains in the oil filter in the drain pan, that you get almost 4.20 quarts out? Over 6000 miles I burn maybe a quart of oil. IMO, that is not a problem.

 

I just changed mine last week and I was only able to get 3qts out. Mobil 1 5w30 at almost 5k miles. I think I will be changing at 3k for now on.

 

lemon law doesnt work like that.

not in any state ive lived in, though it varies.

dealers are allowed a certain number of repair attempts, usually 3 or 4, for the same problem. if the car isnt fixed int hose attempts, then you can lemon law, or if the car is down for repairs for a certain time (usually 2 weeks or 20 days, etc.) for a single repair, or for a total of 30 days (usually)for multiple repairs, then you can lemon law it. it varies in each state, and some states only let you lemon law in the first 12mo/12K...

NY is 2yrs 18K


either way, if you have documented oil burning issues, theyll fix it under warranty, eith by replacing a faulty part, or replacing the engine. youd have to give them three attempts (or more) to fix the problem.


i remember a lady came into the dealer complaining that her boxster caught on fire, and she was going to lemon law her car, and she was a lawyer etc, etc... the shop foreman was saying that if shes a lawyer, then she knows her car has to catch on fire 2 more times before she can lemon law it (rofl)...

anyway... yeah. usually they can measure the oil or get some sign of consumption and get the repair taken care of no problem.

 

Hello guys,
I had doubts about the way I fixed my Nissan Pathfinder 2002 with VQ35DE engine. Problem looked like engine design issue and it was difficult for me to believe that such think happened. So I started to google if this is common problem and found this topic. After reading it my doubts not so strong anymore.

So I had bad oil consumption since my Pathfinder was new. Recently I took my engine appart and found out that oil comes into intake manifold from valve cover. So after some thinking I just put additional PCV into left pipe (that lets fresh air come under covers) so it will not let air to come in and problem seems to dissapear. I know that I may change the way the ventilation is done in my engine but the hell it is better that to burn quarter of oil every 1000 miles. So now I have stronger vacuum under valve covers and idle speed changed a little. I do not know if it would break something, but it did not use a drop of oil for 500 miles since then.

PS So which problem stronger vacuum may cause to the engine?

 

I just did my first oil change with my maxima. If it burns oil its gone!

 

Recently I got an idea why oil consumption increased some time ago. I installed washable air filter with better air flow. But it seems that air filter is what regulates air flow for the ventilation system. MiniRX7, did you use something like that?

 

My 2002 was burning oil heavily (1plus quarts per 1000M) and I got a new motor installed. While I agree this is not a widespread issue where I would be scared to buy one its definitely not just one or two. Alot of people are catching alot with that container on the PCV valve. Being able to document your care and observations is critical.

 

2003 SE with 102,000 miles and burning oil since 98,000 miles..... Just like some people I started with hearing a loud clicking noise at 98,000 and found just about 1.5 quarts in the pan. It's losing about a quart every 600 miles.

 

I see that this is an old thread but I am having the same problem. I bought my max new in 2005 and have been religious on the maintenance. Its been great!!!!! Now it has 114K on it. I just changed the oil. Last time I changed the oil with a new filter with 4.5qts. I got out 1.25qts today. Oh did I mention I changed the oil because I was concerned about a rattle? I has only been 1500 miles since I changed the oil and filter!!!!! Where is all this oil going???? 3.25 qts gone in 1500 miles???? At that rate I should either have a puddle of oil under the car or a tornado of smoke coming out the exhaust. I have neither. Advise??? Oh also the dip stick sucks. I have read other posts with complaints about that. So the question is how to check the oil with an inaccurate stick to see how much oil to add?? And where is all this oil going??

Please help!!!!!

 

Search about rear valve covers. Leaky rear VC's are common in our cars, and the reason you dont see oil or smoke is because it drips onto the hot exhaust manifold and burns up there. Replacing it with a 6th gen (2004) valve cover usually fixes that problem.

 

no it doesn't, it helps a little, but doesn't solve the problem. From what I understand it is a piston ring issue. If you are planning to rebuild then you will be fine....other than that just keep an eye on the oil.

 

My first 5.5 gen use a quart every 1500-1800 miles, then when the front valve cover started leaking, it was a quart every 1200 miles. But at 195k when it was totaled, the car still ran strong, no blue smoke and no fouled plugs. Just run it until it dies. Adding a quart every few weeks in an otherwise good running engine is cheaper than replacing it.

My 2nd 5.5 gen used a quart every 3500-4000 miles or so, nice change of pace not adding oil all the time.

My '04 Accord? Didn't realize it had been so long since oil had been changed, actually went just over 10k miles (on synthetic) and it was still on the full line.

 

My wife's I35 keeps losing oil. I don't know if this is normal burning for the 3.5L engines or if I am leaking oil. There are no signs of significant drops on the ground, but I am noticing oil around one of the engine gaskets.

What gasket is this and do you think this is the problem? Could the PCV valve be contributing to this? What would it cost to replace the gasket?

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...75/I-351v2.jpg
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...75/I-353v2.jpg
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/...75/I-352v2.jpg

 

I have been talking to an uncle of mine that is an engineer for nissan. He determined though my VIN that the engine was built in Smyrna instead of Japan. He has some connections there and is looking into the issue. He also spoke to someone at his facility about the situation and was told about a drain in the baffold on the valve cover that gets clogged and hinders the oil circulation. This causes the oil to burn. You will not see smoke in this situation either. Once he gets back to me with info from Smyrna, I will post again, but until then I'll just be burning $$$$ from buying oil.

 

I have the same leak that just developed. The gasket new from Nissan is around $20. Do it yourself. There is a guy on the fifth gen classifieds selling a valve cover gasket for $15.

His thead: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ium-plugs.html

 

The o-rings for the oil cooler (plate oil filter connects to) are also notorious for leaking. Will often appear to be lower oil pan leaking. So check there too.

 

Yeh....my 03 Acura MDX had the same amount of oil in it after about 9k miles of driving on it to (synthetic as well)...drive back and forth to NYC twice a month.

Also never had that problem with my 4th Gen 97 Maxima.....oil in = oil out.

From what I understand its not just the 5.5 Maximas, its the Altimas, 350z, G35, basically all the VQ35DE engines from what I heard consume oil. I also heard the new HR engines dont have this problem. Its really not that bad, just keep some extra oil in the trunk and remember to check the oil every couple of weeks. You will become intimately familiar with that dipstick. Never had that problem with my 4th Gen 97 Maxima.....oil in = oil out.

 

same issue here...122k on my 02 se and i have to throw a qt in it every 800-1000 miles or so. i checked both valve covers and they hardly show any leakage.....

 

You still got those pre-cats or you have headers?

 

all stock.....haven't touched a thing besides the muffler

 

Yes I agree. There is very little you can do to stop the oil from burning. A mechanic explain to me why they burn oil but I can't really explain.I usually have to top up my oil 3-4 times in between oil change and if i don't remember the tensioners usually start making noise and thats usully due to lack of oil..

If I don't i'll only end up with about 1/4 jug which is about a liter.The only thing I can recommend is adding an oil stablizer when you do an oil change.The lucus oil stablizer works pretty good at slowing down the oil burn.Or just keep toping it up

 

Not sure if it's my imagination, but after I burn my 1st quart, I replace it with a quart of 10-40 instead of the usual 10-30 and it seems to last a little bit longer.

 

I love my car man but the tensioner noise and the oil burning really gets under my skin.Just try the lucus oil stablizer and see if that works

 

40 wieght oil WILL cut down oil loss. I cant believe hardly anyone is trying that.

 

Try using the 10-30 or 10-40wt oil that is recommended for high-mileage cars, that helps as well.
And check your oil at least once a week or every 500 miles or so.

 

Anything 30 wieght is a waste of time. 40 is the new normal

 

If I lived in MN, 40wt would worry me.

 

Im running 0w-40.. Cold starts are easy.

 

Isn't that the kind you use on trucks? Because I swear I use that to refill my 5ton truck

 

The 0W is the key for cold weather starts.

 

I had 15w40 in one winter ...0 degrees...started right up
Probably not so good for the motor, but it still starts fine.

 

Cheaper to add oil than replace an otherwise great running engine. As long as power is good, mileage is normal and the plugs aren't fouling, rather put another as many miles on the engine as possible before it does develop problems.