I have to preface this issue with a story about my autostart. It was installed in February and never really worked 100%. Occasionally, when I hit the sequence to start it, it worked flawlessly. More often than not, it would crank for .25 seconds, stop, crank again, stop, and try for a third and final time and then stop. If I tried again..maybe it would eventually start. I never really followed up with the dealer to get it fixed..not enough time in the day.


This morning I leave for work..stop at the 7/11, everything is fine. I get to work and shut off the car to make a phone call before I go into the building. The phone call ends and I try to start the car. crank..stop..nothing....crank..stop...nothing. .....Battery is ok...alarm, radio, and lights work..I try again..

Crank..the cranking stops before I release the key. Nothing.


Sounds like a starter? Sounds like we may have also resolved the autostart feature as well?

Watcha think?

 

May be your battery...

Same thing happend to me, radio worked, lights in and out of the car were good, but the battery didnt have enough juice to get it started.

One other thing...I have never had a battery go over time until this car....Normally you just come out and find a dead battery. My '02 gle started giving me starting problems for about a week before the bat finally died. Normally I turn and the car would start immediatly without any cranking. ABout a week before the battery died it started to crank for maybe 3 to 5 secs.

60 bucks at autozone and I was good to go..

edit...one more quick thing, I was told if it was a starter the car wouldnt crank at all...Dont know if that is relevant or not.

 

Something you might check .....cam and crank position sensors .... I had a 93 Dodge Stealth that would crank and crank the first time I put the key but if I stoppped and let it rest for a second and tried to crank it again it would start right up. I thought for awhile that it was the fuel pump brecause it didn't act like it was getting fuel. I later found out that I had a bad sensor because when I had work done on the car someone banged into the sensor. This caused not to work everytime. Check to see if you are getting fuel and spark when you are cranking the engine. If you arne'ty getting fuel the I would say you have a fuel pump issue and if you have no spark then look at your sensors, spark plugs, coils, etc.

Just thought this info might be helpful

 

Replace your battery.

 

I had the same exact problem once. Turned out to be the immobilizer unit. I guess it just broke.

 

when it goes 'crank...stop... nothing', are you starting wiht the remote or the key.

you say the battery is good, how do you know. what were your load test readings?

 

My battery died on me last week. Everything worked, but the car would not crank. It was a Die Hard Gold, 11 months old and it went bad. Replaced it with sears and car works like a charm again.

 

It was the battery.

I thought that when the battery died..nothing would work---but eveything did work---just couldnt start it. I let it sit for a couple of hours.. It had enough juice to start and then I got a new battery. All is good.

(of course, the autostart still doesnt work right)

 

Could be a crank duration setting on the autostart. They all operate differently and my clifford has two different options. One is a specific millisecond amount of crank and the other monitors the rpm of the engine. take it back and have them check whichever it is. I know when I'm low on gas it will take 2 or 3 times for the autostart to actually fully start the car.

 

Stupid Q on the autostart...

Did you have to get a extra key made ect. ect.

When I looked into remote starters I found out you would need a key from nissan to put under your hood bc of the computer chip in the key.

If you had it proffesionally installed I would assume they did this?

I have a 2k2 gle if it matters

 

Most people do, but you don't have to. If you do, you should trim the key so it can't be used in the car. You need the key and alarm transponder because the key has a chip inside. For mine, we took a chip out of a key and placed it within proximity of the sensor in the steering column so it was not needed.

 

Mine is a alarm, autostart combo where I just hit a button 3 times and it starts the engine...at least it should. I forget who makes it. The key is standard.

 

NVIS/NATS......next please

 

Bones, that what I was hinting at, your remote starter may not be working because you dont have the chip/key installed.


Im not 100% sure what im talking about but I was under the impression the chip in the key had to be within a few feet of the steering column for the engine to start.

Hence when I looked into it, my friendly nissan dealer was gonna charge approx $125 for a key(or chip) to put under the hood in the remote starter box. then I had to get a custom install and yada yada yada is was gonna be around 500$ bones when finished, so I passed.

 

within a few inches.

and if its not present, there should be a telltale light.

 

Here is what happened to me...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=nvis%2Fnats

 

That seems to defy the reason for the chip in the key now. The reason for the box is so if somebody tries to steal your car they cant without the chip. But with yours right next to the ignition it is now easy to steal..... right?

 

The key does Not go under the hood. Although it doesnt need to be "within a few inches of the ignition" either. The box/bypass that it goes into can be mounted anywhere. Leaving a chip or chipped key by the ignition without using either a relay or immobilizor bypass module can eventually lead to problems. The car will see two chipped keys at once. The purpose of the bypass unit is to only let the car read that key momentarily while remote starting, otherwise its not active and the car does not constantly read it.

 

a remote start module can go under the hood, and on the stock NATS/NVIS the key does have to be within a few inches of the transponder.

AFAIK, it has to be facing in the right direction as well...

 

Im not sure who fed you this info, but they are completely, utterly Dead Wrong.

 

And to add to that, it is Highly recommend Not to put eiether under the hood, theyre not heat resitant or weatherproof. More harm than good. You said you "can", theres alot of things you "can" do, but it doesnt make them right.

 

i didnt say it was right, but there are other electronics under the hood, and there are cooler portions of the engine bay.


so, how close does an ignition key have to be to the transponder on the OEM setup. for example, if i were to remove the key from the head, how far away would the head need to be before the car wouldnt start?

 

ah yes the battery, can be a PITA

 

My point is just taking the chip and trying to put it near the cylinder is the absolute wrong way to do. Although doing it that way (can eventually cause damage) it does have to be near the cylinder. The correct way would be to use either a bypass module or a relay. In which case it could be in your truck if you so chose.

 

good... so my response:


to this post:

was correct.

so... how would removing and relocating the transponder, and placing a programmed chip in the correct location cause damage?

 

No your answer is still incorrect. Unless of course you like doing things the Wrong way. First two sentences in my last post tells you that its wrong. Above posts tell why. Apparently I need to explain again...

A chip or chipped key near the ignition *could* work. Although it would eventually cause damage with the car seeing two live chips at the same time. Either a bypass OR a relay are required to power the chip ONLY when remote starting. Just throwing a chip in there will have the car reading it 24/7, which in turn also defeats the purpose of having the immobilizor at all.

This is all FACTUAL, not something I heard or read somewhere.

 

I 2nd everything Don says......and I can attest to his information.

 

okay, and we both agree that it wouldnt be the correct way to set up a remote start... but a chipped and programmed key near the ignition is how the entire NATS works, as well as most other mfg's transponder anti-theft setups. i said that a chip would have to be within a few inches of a transponder to work, so far, you havent shown me otherwise.


it wouldnt cause damage, it would set a fault code and possibly not start the car. wouldnt cause any damage, though.

and i never disagreed with this. you dont need to repeat it, although i appreciate it


AFAIK the car only reads the key and sends a signal during and shortly after cranking, but i see what you mean, and agree. but i never suggested attaching a pill to a transponder

 

My main point was that its the wrong way to do it, so offering it as an alternate route could cause problems for someone trying it. Thats why I tend not to mention shortcuts/cheap routes.

Although...BTW...it is incorrect to be within a few inches, actually needs to be within mm's

 

HA! you win this time







have you or anyone else found a way to integrate a RSS to the stock SECU? ive seen it done on a few cars, using redundant, unused buttons, or a sequence... i havent given it much thought, but i like the idea of keeping the stock remote... for my daily driver, anyway...

 

Yea I install them regularly. I just double/triple pulse the lock button.

 

and the SECU will make an output for a double or triple signal, or you use an external module that senses x amt pulse in y time?

 

You connect the factory door lock wire to the input of the remote start. To activate the remote start just press the lock button on the OEM remote 2 or 3 times depending on how you have it set.

 

that was my presumption, but i was hoping you knew of another output from the SECU that was unused, or availible for the function.

thanks for the info