ok guys, i had my new system ripping with the automatic start on, and the car stalled, then the automatic start restarted the car. i also noticed when the car is at idle, when the bass hits hard, the RPM's drop 100rpm's and then go back up. does anyone else exsperiance this rpm drop? thanks

 

ive seen it on several cars. normal, but not really good for the alternator.

 

Indeed. Aftermarket ICE usually put more of a load on a car's electrical system to the point where it can affect drivability. Although you can get a bigger battery, I recommend getting a rebuilt/upgraded alternator than can put out enough amps to run everything.

 

or just get a 1 farad cap and you should be ok...

 

also, an alternator needs to be spinning at 1500+ RPM for max output.

if hes pulling enough amps to stall the car, hell need more than a 1 farad cap.

id go with another optima in paralell...

 

Exactly what Bewst said!!! Maintain the same voltage but twice the current available for the amps to draw from.

 

Before you go waisting your money on a cap or a new alternator I would give the big 3 a try if you havent done it already.

 

wha? ^^^

you want him to buy a fomoco/DCC/GM vehicle?


yessss... go buy a focus, itsll solve your stalling problems

 

no im not telling him to go buy a new car but the big three is upgrading the wiring to the major ground points in the engine bay... here is a good write up on it from sounddomain
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

*edit* i would check the audio forum out theres alot of helpful things in there

 

because all of them have seen issues, electrical and driveability caused by weaksauce engine and body grounds. a little more difficult to diagnose, sometimes. the reason theyre doing it is because itll save money on warranty claims. if its a conductivity issue then he should be running 1/0 to the trunk for power and ground.