dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

I backed into my Max in my Jeep (don't ask - long day, too tired, didn't pay attention). The hood is toast. I was thinking of getting a CF hood, but I would like to get it painted to match the car, but I dunno if you CAN paint CF easily? How much should I expect to pay for a steel hood? How much are CF hoods and what is the better brand?

also, do you have to use hood pins with CF hoods, or will they work with stock latch?

2k1Maxdrvr

I think a carbon hood would look great unpainted. Just my opinion man. Sorry to hear about your bad luck also!

scopium

cf hood runs about 300-400 bucks.. and can be painted.. VIS currently makes the best fits

if your paying out of your pocket get CF hood.

dmitry82

.....

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

my neighbor who works for a body shop said that getting a new factory hood and have it installed and painted would cost something like $1200. seems like the cost of the steel hood is about the same as CF one.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

Hoods

I know you can get a hood painted for around $400.

If you are going to paint your hood, I would not go with CF, only do so if you want to leave it "naked", it is not worth the money for CF if no one knows it, it is a cosmetic mod if you ask me.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

What's a good source for a CF hood, besides eBay. I see that VIS hood is a way to go.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

A CF hood should be considerably lighter than a stock steel hood

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

True, but by how much??

Is it really that significant? I can understand if you are trying to shave every pound off of your car to save every millisecond in your 1/4 mile, but for realistic uses it seems to be a cosmetic mod....

I love seeing all the people with a CF hood, yet they throw 100lbs+ of audio equipment in the car...

All i am saying is that unless you truely race your car, it is pointless.

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

You are right, some ppl offset the weight savings of CF with other things such as audio equipment. Also, most companies use primarily fiberglass to keep costs down so a "CF" part is not in actuality saving much weight.

In theory however, a CF hood (around 10 lbs) in comparison to a stock hood (around 30 lbs) would be a nice weight savings considering that most of our car weight is center in the front AND over the front axles (bad weight distribution). So any weight savings to offset that heavy front end would be nice whether or not the owner is racing or in this case just looking for a replacement

and also in theory, a true CF part is lighter and stronger than any metal materials in relative density and size. But of course this is race car theory and you are right.... most ppl use it for cosmetics

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

CF hood will cost me about $100-120 more shipped than a steel one. I need to replace the hood anyways, so I might as well save some weight in the process.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

Just a quick question....

I think I remeber some people saying not to get CF parts if you live in an area that has drastic weather changes (such as the north east), because it can crack...

Is this true?

MaxBoost925

iTrader: (33)

If it was me, I'd go CF. Nowadays, they have UV protection.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

you damaged your hood backing up?

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Thank-you. I was wondering the same thing.

Kinda like the "magic-lugee" from Seinfeld.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

learno to reado...

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Ahhhh...the powers of editing your post.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

i have edited my post 13 minutes after i originally posted it. do the math.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

So, I ordered a steel hood from http://www.carpartswholesale.com/ as was suggested above. (I figure I should get steel over CF, so when time comes to sell the car, it would have all stock body, since I wouldn't have a stock hood to put back on).

When it arrived, I unwrapped it and it was nice and shiny black coated hood. Great!, I thought.

Tonight I went to put it on. Removed the stock hood (it's a heavy SOB), went to put the new hood on, and it felt little easier to handle, lighter. I placed it on, bolted the 4 nuts to the brackets, I noticed a small dent (more like uneven surface) near the front end of the hood, then when I went to close it, it wouldn't latch all the way. That's when I noticed more uneven surfaces on the front curve. I started pushing on the hood in different places and it seems to bend down real easy.
I guess they used thinner, cheaper sheet metal for this one. I tried doing the same on the stock hood, but it didn't bulge as much and would spring right back if pushed hard. This would explain why the hood felt lighter.

I am going to call them up on Monday morning and request they send out the trucking co. to pick it up and give me a refund. Does anyone have any tips when dealing with them? Like, if they try to give me a runaround, that I somehow damaged the hood, etc.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

Did you buy the CAPA Certified one? If not it was only $20 more.

make sure you do not have to switch out any supports from the old hood to the new one.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

Once I return this hood I will order a CF one. When I was unpacking the steel one, it appeared that it was previously open already, as the packaging was damaged and torn. Now, the pieces of the puzzle fall in together and it looks like it was previously fitted and dented because they couldn't latch it either, then returned it.

biggy8481

iTrader: (4)

I work in a carobn fiber plant... I would not put any fiber on my vehicle there's too many variables involved.

dennisuello

iTrader: (2)

like?

many people run it, it's reinforced and it's light.