bugbite77

iTrader: (14)

everyone i talk to has a different opinion on sound detaining material i should use for my new system. some people say that dynomat is the only way to go, but then others say that i just cost to much and the competitor brands do the same if not better of a job, let me hear what you orgers think, preferably opinions from personal use in maximas. thanks guys

Kruppa

iTrader: (1)

I have the full Dynamat trunk kit and put some on the rear deck and behind the seatbelt clips behind the back seat and there is NO rattling in the car except during real long and deep hits there may be a very small amount...it's silent from the outside and you just hear the bass...NO rattling...no exaggeration...but I know others who have the trunk kit and didn't get as good results but were still decent...I guess its just luck or something on the spoiler being secured tight enough etc...I also put foam weatherstripping along the edges of my license plate to stop that from rattling...good luck.

Rocket1991

No mattery what the competition might say, Dynamat Extreme is the way to go. You can get a bulk pack on ebay for about $100 and then do the whole car. Reary Deck, Trunk, Trunk Lid, All the Doors, I also did my sunglasses holder.
Dynamat Extreme is easy to use and does a great job. I use it on all of my cars.

bugbite77

iTrader: (14)

is there a link you can send me of that bulk package, i cant seeme to find it on e-bay, thanks

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

Theres a whole Stickied thread about every brand of sound deadening with full reviews in the audio forum. Dynamat isnt bad, but its definitely not the only way to go. Theres much better out there. Also, 1 bulk pack isnt nearly enough, at all, to do a whole car. Bulk packs are 9 sheets, 6 sq ft a piece, 36 sq ft total. Id say a bulk pack would be good for the whole trunk if you want to do it right. I did 5 and 1/2 bulk packs (192 sq ft) of Stinger Expert Roadkill in a 5th gen, which now sounds like a lexus when your inside. (I wont mention names, Ill let him chime in if he wants). Our cars definitely don't have nearly enough deadening from the factory, so go for it.

P.S. This is how you properly deaden a door


-Kevin

MaxBoost925

iTrader: (33)

THAT IS REALLY....YEAH....DEADENED.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

There is a nice thread in the audio forums on this. I used edead which wasn't bad but I'm about to rip it all out. I personally think the most important thing is the tempature rating of the deadening material especially if you live in areas where it gets hot during the summer. When the tempature is 85+ outside our cars gan get to 100+ degrees inside even with tint, any tar based deadener will melt inside your doors. Like of mentioned in other threads, the edead melted inside my doors, sticked to my windows where it would not wind up or down. I'm about to upgrade to damplifier and tear all the edead out. Stay away from the tar based deadeners.

UGAd13

Good Lord... How do you open that door, must weight a ton...


I used some Home Depot stuff that is in the roofing section. Tar type stuff on one side and foil on the other. Works perfect and costs less.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

kpr, does that deadener have tar on the other side? i really need to deaden my back deck and my trunk, but i don't want it to get hot in the summer and melt and stink up my car....and is that brand any cheaper than dynamat?

filtor1

iTrader: (7)

Not sure if that is Cascade or not, I think it is. It's Dons old car. I bought 6 bulk packs from him and used 192sqft(with kpr10is's help of coarse). I gave a full review in the Definitive deadening thread in the Audio forum including the brand I chose. Check that thread out for everything I did. I need to lay the last few sheets on the rear wheel wells, then done, woo hoo!.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

awesome, thanks! is there a noticable difference in road noise as well? you did the floor/doors/ceiling/etc. , correct? I wish i could afford to do that, but i cant! i just really need to get rid of this rediculous rattling coming from my back deck, and maybe a little of the road noise...

kpr10is

iTrader: (9)

The door I posted was the Stinger Expert Roadkill in Don's old car. Lube the door jam a little, and the doors really arent hard to close at all. WELL worth it for the noise reduction you get.

maxilvr, yes, we did the whole car, except the ceiling. Its pricey, but like I said, well worth it.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

i just read over that stickied thread in the audio forums, and that was a tremendous help...a lot of good advice in there....i highly doubt i'm going to be doing anything so extensive, but i think that the back deck and the doors are a good place to start...i have the stock BOSE, so i don't have to worry about any heavy bass from the trunk since i don't have an AM sub, but from what i hear (if i understand it correctly), the doors are what transfer most of the road noise, so that is where i'm going to start....again, thanks a lot, and i hope to get this done soon!

Book31

The dynamat really works to cure most rattles.

filtor1

iTrader: (7)

The difference was huge. We did just the floors, A-pillars, B-pillars, rear deck and the trunk. If you have the extra cash, cover the b-pillars and the rear wheel wells on the interior. I thing these had the most impact as far as road noise. Good luck getting the rattles out of the rear deck though. I have two layers of Stinger Expert Roadkill and the rear deck still rattles when the cover is on. It def helped a ton though.