Vudoo

I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima with an intermittant start problem that started on Saturday, no cold weather here in California. The car has 94K miles on it.

The problem is that the car will turn over and seem like it wants to start and will not. If you try multiple times, it seems to turn over and start about five tries later. I have better luck for some reason with a new key I just got from Nissan dealership 3 weeks ago, it will start once in 3 tries with that key. I let the car rest for a while after the third try and no start up.

I have taken it into a shop and they are unable to find a problem and they checked the electrical system, It cost $100 for diagonistics. So I am very hesitant to go pay another $100 for nothing again. Please help me to figure out possible problems.

Thanks,

Alex

BewstAdd1ct

if they NPF it, you shouldnt be charged a diag fee.

get it to happen, and SHOW them... tell them you already paid for diag, and that they need to locate the problem and provide you with an estimate.

did they check fuel pressure and bleed down? telltale theft NATS light doing anything?

is it cranking slow? or anything else abnormal?

if you cycle the key a few times without cranking, will it start easier?

its it only when cold/hot or both? does it happen more often when the car has been sitting, or just driven... or doesnt matter?

NismoMaxm

i had a very similar if not exact issue and my starter was bad. so they put in a new one. could be your issue??
My car would turn over and what not and then clunk out and then turn over again and then it would start. Got a new starter and it rips over very nicely.good luck man.

Vudoo

Nismo- did they actually test your starter and find that it was bad?

Brews- The shop noted that they checked starter and electrical system, no codes were reported. Other than the intermittant start, there is nothing unusual. Just cursed myself.

* have not tried the key cycle thing, will try today.
* the three times that it has happened, the weather was normal California weather, sunny and in the 70s.
* I am not sure if they tested the fuel pressure or bleed it down.

thank for all the suggestions so far, will try these things next time it happens. Car was OK these past two days. It is irratating because it will completely die when I am about 100 miles from home and that will really **** me off.

Thanks agian,

Alex

psu711

I was under the impression that with a bad starter the car wouldnt crank or try to turn over at all. I could be wrong?

How long has this been happening?

I hate to suggest such a basic answer, but I experienced the exact same thing as you and it turned out to be my battery. Lights, radio, etc. all worked fine, but the car would chug for a while before starting.

BewstAdd1ct

yes, whenever i see this problem, its usually a fuel pressure issue if there arent any codes. fuel pressure bleeds down when the car is shut off, then boils from the heat, esentially vaporlock. the problem with returnless cars is you cant push the air through the regulator.

on regulator cars, sometimes it just takes some cycling/cranking to clear the air. even a low battery should start the car as long as the engine is turning over at a reasonable speed...

nismo_star

iTrader: (8)

01 = 3.0 = return fuel system.

It NATS problem, car cranks and never starts from attempt #1 - 10.
Possibly IMMU ring around ignition cylinder, does have relay, which if gone bad could cause the problem.

Car cranks, does not seem like a starter problem, esp after mentioning seems to want to start.

Fuel delivery problem, seems somewhat likely, bad fuel pump ?

Rare case is chipped crank position sensor, got UDP ???(ie. seen on a car w/ UDP)

let us know