cmuehlenb

I got a coil cutting out and its throwing code P1320. I am not sure which coil it is. Has anyone had this problem?

There are two coils you can use. There is one for the year 2000 only, PN 22448-2Y000 and one for 2000-2001, PN 22448-2Y001. The later is more expensive. Does any one know the difference?

Do I need to replace all the coils?

Thanks!

Compton

i think everyone on this board has had a bad coil...replace em all w/ the grey dotted updated ones. Do a search and u will find the other 24928374928374 posts related to ignition coils

cmuehlenb

Thanks, I think.

sloppymax

iTrader: (8)

if you plan on keeping the car then i would replaced all 6. if not then just pull one coil at a time until you find one that upon removing it does not change the condition of the car. the 01 is more expensive probably because it is the updated part that i personally have seen no failures on. you can use the 01 coils and your 00 as confirmed by dave b.

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

Me and Ryan(t-bone) just did his coils and plugs and the car runs great now, it finds the rev limiter faster than I remember

He was having hesitation/hiccuping at higher RPMs, issue solved. His car gave the same 1320 code...

dentalstud

What would a typical dealer cost be to replace all 6?

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

It's gonna cost hundred's of dollars to replace all six because of the labor involved. It's not really that difficult at all. You're better off replacing them yourself. Save your money and don't let the stealership take your money.

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

get the six pack.and be done with it....call dave b 1-888-254-6060

cmuehlenb

The 2000-2001 coils are $52 at everythingnissan.com. Retail is $80 ish. I bet the dealer would charge $800 to change all of them.

My problem is intermittant. So I would have to pull over and troubleshoot when it drops a cylinder to find the bad coil. I heard that sometimes, it will give a follow up code 301 thru 306 indicating which cyl. But mine hasn't.

Biobilly

I have a similar problem but it appears to be cylinder 6. Earlier in this thread most commenters are suggesting replacing them all with a "gray dot" coil. I am assuming that this is the 2001 (I have a 2000 with 134,000 miles).

I am inclined to just replace the #6 coil and see how things go. Are there any issues to having mismatched coils? My miss appears about once every 3 months or so and then completely goes away when I stop it after a full warmup. The phenomenon also seems to happening during rainy weather.

I also am getting a 0430 which my local mechanic says could be a very infrequent misfire (less than once in 100 times) that feeds too much unburned fuel into the precat (the stealership talked me into replacing this for $1000). (California emissions package).

Does anyone else have a comment or suggestion?

Biobilly
2000 SE, stock

FriscoMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I just called Dave and he said that if you have both P1320 and P0306, you might need to replace all coils since 306 means that 6th cylinder is really bad and 1320 means that all other misfire from time to time but not as bad as the 6th. All 6 coils are arounf $380 shipped to your door. Hope that helps. thanks.

Biobilly

I may not have made myself clear. I only get the 1320 rarely--I just got a code reader on ebay. I may just have a bad wire in the harness--will check this weekend. The reason I don't think the coil problem is general is that I just drove my car on a 600 mile trip and got 27 mpg at an average speed of 72. I can't believe that I could be losing much in the way of ignition and have this kind of fuel efficiency. I'll post my results.

Biobilly

FriscoMaxima

iTrader: (1)

OMFG, 27mpg?!?!? All i get is like 21 mpg highway at about 65-70mph. I forgot the last time i floored my car...

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

You're better off replacing all six at the same time, because sooner or later the rest will fail. It's well worth the time and money, and most of all--aggravation.

Biobilly

Max: You gave me some good advice in the past when I was struggling with an MAF--that fix has worked great. My question is when i go to the online parts sources, they list R and L types of coils which are described as driver (Left) or passenger (right) side. Clearly this doesn't make sense with a transverse-mounted engine. Am I to assume that the left side refers to the front row of cylinders (2, 4, 6) since this lines up with where the belts are? I am short on cash at the moment and plan to only replace coil #6 right now since I am pulling an 0306 code along with the 1320. Will do the rest, as you and most others advise, when I am back in the chips--hopefully by the end of January.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Biobilly

xtantmaxima

Check THIS post from the "long" coil thread, I have a picture of the difference in coils. There is also a write-up on how-to a few posts up from there.

StillenMax80x20

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem, except i had a 1320 and 0304, i tried insulating and switching the coil with cyl two and then i had a 0302 and a 1320, try switching them or just replace the one that is causing a misfire......I replaced the one and went like 7-10 thousand more miles before i threw a 0302 but it actually went away.... gas mileage is suffering though, but on a fully loaded car(back dropped from weight) highway/70-80mph i got 26 mpg....

have a good one

HotRodMike

I have a 2000 Maxima SE Auto with only 80,300 miles. I have dealt with the CEL and code 1320 since 72,000 miles. In that time I have twice changed all six ignition coils with Pep Boys supplied ignition coils made in Poland. The second time I changed plugs with NGK. The CEL remained ON and code 1320 continued to haunt me.
Finally, I had to pass the California smog test, so I purchased six new Nissan OEM Ignition Coils with gray dots, and six new NGK plugs. SUCCESS! Lesson learned, BUY ONLY NISSAN OEM GRAY DOT IGNITION COILS.
I purchased the coils through http://www.mynissanparts.com/ for $82.00 in December 2012.
It took me 40 minutes from start to finish to change all six plugs and ignition coils. It is an easy job for anyone with fair mechanic skills and a few tools.
The good news was that Pep Boys refunded my money without hassle.

T_Behr904

wcasskicker

iTrader: (2)

Since DaveB is gone, where does everyone get their grey dot coil now?

TallTom

I just ordered parts from here: http://www.nissanpartsasap.com/

And a lot of people also order from here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Dave B was laid off back in Nov 2011. He no longer works at a Nissan dealer but he did arrange for another dealership to do discounts.

Call Rusty Myler at
Gunn Nissan
San Antonio TX
210-496-0806
rmyler@gunnauto.com

Another internet place to get parts is http://www.nissanpartszone.com/

wcasskicker

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help!!!
I checked all 3 websites, but it looks like Nissanpartszone.com and Courtesynissan carrys 22448-2Y000 and 22448-2Y005. It's been so long, has Nissan come out with new updated coil for 2k Max?

When I search by my vehicle by year, the part# is completely different then the one I've searched in the forum. They listed as 22433 and 22433+A, which one should I go with?