20th Ann. 0-60 in over 8 secs. H E L P ! !
06-01-2001, 06:41 PM
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Originally posted by wmax2k
BlackAE: Do you have a lot of junk in the trunk? My car runs in the low 9's as well, but that's with a full tank of gas and 200 lbs. of **** in the trunk. Weight makes a pretty big difference.
BlackAE: Do you have a lot of junk in the trunk? My car runs in the low 9's as well, but that's with a full tank of gas and 200 lbs. of **** in the trunk. Weight makes a pretty big difference.
06-01-2001, 06:54 PM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Originally posted by stevepake
Whoa there, buddy. 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are NOT the same thing. 100kmh = 62mph, and YES, it DOES make a difference in the time.
This thread came up on my SHO Accord V6 board once and I made a very very rough 0-100kmh => 0-60mph compensator of -0.44s to convert 0-100kmh to 0-60mph.
The stock Accord V6 and Maxima automagic have VERY SIMILAR stock performance numbers so if you take that same rough calculation and apply it to the Max automagic you can lop off 0.44s from your 0-100kmh number.
That brings you down to 7.96s 0-60mph which I believe is right about where a stock Maxima automagic is, without powershifting at redline.
So anyways, I kinda lost track of this thread, but just be sure that you're comparing the same numbers.
Whoa there, buddy. 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are NOT the same thing. 100kmh = 62mph, and YES, it DOES make a difference in the time.
This thread came up on my SHO Accord V6 board once and I made a very very rough 0-100kmh => 0-60mph compensator of -0.44s to convert 0-100kmh to 0-60mph.
The stock Accord V6 and Maxima automagic have VERY SIMILAR stock performance numbers so if you take that same rough calculation and apply it to the Max automagic you can lop off 0.44s from your 0-100kmh number.
That brings you down to 7.96s 0-60mph which I believe is right about where a stock Maxima automagic is, without powershifting at redline.
So anyways, I kinda lost track of this thread, but just be sure that you're comparing the same numbers.
What would happen if this is the case? Is it possible that I have wrecked my engine by installing the OSCAI with K&N? What symptoms would be expected? What can be done to repair the engine if this did happen? I'm worried that the technicians at Nissan will ask too many questions, notice the hole in my splash-guard, take a look at the air scoop and figure out what I've been up to and blame it on my modification.
06-01-2001, 07:43 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 915
Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Yup... they are different, but it can't possibly make THAT much of a difference.. I did the calculations (a curve fit, etc.) for a 911 turbo here once, and the diff was only like .2 seconds. Now, let's say worst case scenario that it was off by .6 or even .8 seconds... that's still way over what a 5 spd Maxima AE should be doing!!!!
-Tom Z.
-Tom Z.
Originally posted by stevepake
Whoa there, buddy. 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are NOT the same thing. 100kmh = 62mph, and YES, it DOES make a difference in the time.
This thread came up on my SHO Accord V6 board once and I made a very very rough 0-100kmh => 0-60mph compensator of -0.44s to convert 0-100kmh to 0-60mph.
The stock Accord V6 and Maxima automagic have VERY SIMILAR stock performance numbers so if you take that same rough calculation and apply it to the Max automagic you can lop off 0.44s from your 0-100kmh number.
That brings you down to 7.96s 0-60mph which I believe is right about where a stock Maxima automagic is, without powershifting at redline.
So anyways, I kinda lost track of this thread, but just be sure that you're comparing the same numbers.
Whoa there, buddy. 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are NOT the same thing. 100kmh = 62mph, and YES, it DOES make a difference in the time.
This thread came up on my SHO Accord V6 board once and I made a very very rough 0-100kmh => 0-60mph compensator of -0.44s to convert 0-100kmh to 0-60mph.
The stock Accord V6 and Maxima automagic have VERY SIMILAR stock performance numbers so if you take that same rough calculation and apply it to the Max automagic you can lop off 0.44s from your 0-100kmh number.
That brings you down to 7.96s 0-60mph which I believe is right about where a stock Maxima automagic is, without powershifting at redline.
So anyways, I kinda lost track of this thread, but just be sure that you're comparing the same numbers.
06-01-2001, 08:53 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 214
Re: Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Originally posted by tomz17
Yup... they are different, but it can't possibly make THAT much of a difference.. I did the calculations (a curve fit, etc.) for a 911 turbo here once, and the diff was only like .2 seconds.
Yup... they are different, but it can't possibly make THAT much of a difference.. I did the calculations (a curve fit, etc.) for a 911 turbo here once, and the diff was only like .2 seconds.
Obviously when you've got close to double the power at the wheels the difference between 60 and 62mph isn't gonna be very much, but when you're talking about 4DSC's with half the horsepower you could say it's going to be about double the time.
I based my Accord V6 calculation on the fact that it could get to 60mph in 7.7sec (C&D), and to 70mph in 9.9sec (also C&D). That's a difference of 2.2s. Because there was no gear change and the engine would have been pulling hard right through the power band of the engine I assumed the acceleration between 60 and 70 to be about constant and linear, so i made the assumption that it would take (2.2s/10mph = ) 0.22s to gain 1mph of speed in the Accord V6 between 60 and 70mph. Since 100 km/h = 62mph, you need to gain 2 mph total for a total of 0.22s/mph * 2mph = 0.44s.
So that was how I got my converter for the Accord V6. You could do something similar for the Maxima as well (or any car for that matter) and it'll probably work out pretty well as long as there's not a gear change to screw things up. It might not be dead-on, but definitely "ballpark" which was what I was shooting for anyways
The car I was converting was actually the UK Accord V6 Coupe which was quoted at 8.4s to 62mph. After the conversion it came out to 7.96s to 60mph which was still a little high, so maybe acceleration was much quicker than expected in the lower 60's and fell off as the engine reached redline as it approached and passed 70mph. That made sense since peak torque was at 4700rpm which would have long passed. Anyways, it was ballpark
Now, let's say worst case scenario that it was off by .6 or even .8 seconds... that's still way over what a 5 spd Maxima AE should be doing!!!!
06-01-2001, 09:15 PM
#45
Since you've removed the OSCAI and the K&N, I would recommend you disconnect the battery for at least 1 hour, then take it out for another run. From what you have posted, it will probably be the same. If so, just take it to the dealer. They should be able to hook it up to their computers and do some stuff.
06-01-2001, 09:16 PM
#46
Re: I'm even crappier!
Originally posted by BlackAE
I have been less than impressed with my performance but never bothered to really look into it and never had any good races to realize how substandard my Maxima's performance was. Anyway, after reading your post I went out to the highway to check it out with my stopwatch. My first run was a pitiful 9.62 sec. Since it was windy and also to accomodate for any slope in the highway I returned in the opposite direction and got a 9.42! My wife's Suzuki can probably match those numbers! I did notice that the gears change at exactly 6000rpm but that still doesn't explain the slowness. After I had installed my OSCAI I had unplugged the battery for 45 minutes so I don't think the ECU is the problem. I'm doing it again right now (for 1 hour) and checking for floor mat/carpet problems. If I don't get some better numbers I'll have to take it in to Nissan. Thanks bramirez for bringing this to my attention, but I'm kind of depressed right now.
I have been less than impressed with my performance but never bothered to really look into it and never had any good races to realize how substandard my Maxima's performance was. Anyway, after reading your post I went out to the highway to check it out with my stopwatch. My first run was a pitiful 9.62 sec. Since it was windy and also to accomodate for any slope in the highway I returned in the opposite direction and got a 9.42! My wife's Suzuki can probably match those numbers! I did notice that the gears change at exactly 6000rpm but that still doesn't explain the slowness. After I had installed my OSCAI I had unplugged the battery for 45 minutes so I don't think the ECU is the problem. I'm doing it again right now (for 1 hour) and checking for floor mat/carpet problems. If I don't get some better numbers I'll have to take it in to Nissan. Thanks bramirez for bringing this to my attention, but I'm kind of depressed right now.
06-02-2001, 06:42 PM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 915
Re: Re: Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
[QUOTE]Originally posted by stevepake
I based my Accord V6 calculation on the fact that it could get to 60mph in 7.7sec (C&D), and to 70mph in 9.9sec (also C&D). That's a difference of 2.2s. Because there was no gear change and the engine would have been pulling hard right through the power band of the engine I assumed the acceleration between 60 and 70 to be about constant and linear, so i made the assumption that it would take (2.2s/10mph = ) 0.22s to gain 1mph of speed in the Accord V6 between 60 and 70mph. Since 100 km/h = 62mph, you need to gain 2 mph total for a total of 0.22s/mph * 2mph = 0.44s.
[QUOTE]
Oh, I can assure you that it is definitely not linear... but you'll definitely get close (depending on how you want to define "close")...
err, well, I think these most recent guys were talking about automagic AE's so they'll still be much slower than a 5spd Max.
Actually, any way you calculate it... ANY Maxima (automatic, or manual), running 0-60 or even 0-62 in 9 seconds should **NOT** have left the Nissan factory.. That is just way too high... Wonder what the quarter mile would be like...
-Tom
I based my Accord V6 calculation on the fact that it could get to 60mph in 7.7sec (C&D), and to 70mph in 9.9sec (also C&D). That's a difference of 2.2s. Because there was no gear change and the engine would have been pulling hard right through the power band of the engine I assumed the acceleration between 60 and 70 to be about constant and linear, so i made the assumption that it would take (2.2s/10mph = ) 0.22s to gain 1mph of speed in the Accord V6 between 60 and 70mph. Since 100 km/h = 62mph, you need to gain 2 mph total for a total of 0.22s/mph * 2mph = 0.44s.
[QUOTE]
Oh, I can assure you that it is definitely not linear... but you'll definitely get close (depending on how you want to define "close")...
err, well, I think these most recent guys were talking about automagic AE's so they'll still be much slower than a 5spd Max.
-Tom
06-02-2001, 07:05 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
the slowest Maxima
Originally posted by tomz17
Actually, any way you calculate it... ANY Maxima (automatic, or manual), running 0-60 or even 0-62 in 9 seconds should **NOT** have left the Nissan factory.. That is just way too high... Wonder what the quarter mile would be like...
-Tom
Actually, any way you calculate it... ANY Maxima (automatic, or manual), running 0-60 or even 0-62 in 9 seconds should **NOT** have left the Nissan factory.. That is just way too high... Wonder what the quarter mile would be like...
-Tom
Then there was the sand and grit around my K&N which I suspect was not locked in place solidly leading me to suspect that debris made it past the filter. I'll take it in to my local Nissan dealer soon and see what they have to say about it. I'll make a post to let you all know.
Question : Should I tell Nissan about the K&N filter or will they void my warranty?
06-02-2001, 08:08 PM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 166
Re: the slowest Maxima
Originally posted by BlackAE
Maybe it left the factory fine and my OSCAI/K&N ruined it. The car runs fine until I flat out accelerate. I spent the first half of it's life driving relatively slow. Then I installed the OSCAI and started to drive it a little more aggressively and was not overwhelmed by the power but satisfied enough not to complain. After barely keeping up with a Ford Ltd recently and then reading bramirez's post I began to wonder.
Then there was the sand and grit around my K&N which I suspect was not locked in place solidly leading me to suspect that debris made it past the filter. I'll take it in to my local Nissan dealer soon and see what they have to say about it. I'll make a post to let you all know.
Question : Should I tell Nissan about the K&N filter or will they void my warranty?
Maybe it left the factory fine and my OSCAI/K&N ruined it. The car runs fine until I flat out accelerate. I spent the first half of it's life driving relatively slow. Then I installed the OSCAI and started to drive it a little more aggressively and was not overwhelmed by the power but satisfied enough not to complain. After barely keeping up with a Ford Ltd recently and then reading bramirez's post I began to wonder.
Then there was the sand and grit around my K&N which I suspect was not locked in place solidly leading me to suspect that debris made it past the filter. I'll take it in to my local Nissan dealer soon and see what they have to say about it. I'll make a post to let you all know.
Question : Should I tell Nissan about the K&N filter or will they void my warranty?
Best regards,
Fast Walker
06-02-2001, 09:22 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,904
Has anyone ever had a car that was faster than what the Manufacturer has said? I once drove my friends 00 Mazda Protege DX with an automatic at the local drag strip. Ive read that these DX model proteges are pretty damn slow with automatics. They supposedly run like 10-11 seconds to 60 and run the quarter in the 17's. With manual shifting and the OD off (Damn those mazda trannys are strong) I pulled a quarter mile in 16.4! According to my eyes and the speedo, I got to 60 in like 9 seconds. Thats closing into the Protege ES range at 0-60 in 8.4 seconds. Thats with the 1.8 liter. I dunno what it runs with the new 2.0. I didnt want to try my 98 protege ES down the strip though. Hmm, I would really like to try my GLE, but Im skeered that something might break. My GLE has been good to me. No paint problems. The Tranny slips Very Rarely (Only after its Warm, on turns, and on wet roads) and so forth.
06-03-2001, 07:09 AM
#51
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 11
Oh man......
i get these problems too,i have some stupid sound from my engine room,everytime either i start my engine or shut it off,there would be some "geegeegee" sound. and when i slam down the gas hard,the rpm needle go smoothly all the way up to about 5500 then it goes really slow to red line,like 1 sec.
I took my maxima to the dealer and ask them to inspect it,after an hour i got my car back...they give me the answer"everthing is normal" since they can't find any problem on it.... anyone can give a suggestion or tell me if your maxima have that stupid sound when you start or shut the engine
i get these problems too,i have some stupid sound from my engine room,everytime either i start my engine or shut it off,there would be some "geegeegee" sound. and when i slam down the gas hard,the rpm needle go smoothly all the way up to about 5500 then it goes really slow to red line,like 1 sec.
I took my maxima to the dealer and ask them to inspect it,after an hour i got my car back...they give me the answer"everthing is normal" since they can't find any problem on it.... anyone can give a suggestion or tell me if your maxima have that stupid sound when you start or shut the engine
06-03-2001, 07:51 AM
#52
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: City of the Fallen Angel, CA
Posts: 4,728
Re: first...
Originally posted by TimW
I would check the obvious... GAS!!! change gas stations.
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one.
not fun.
good luck
I would check the obvious... GAS!!! change gas stations.
I will assume you are using 91+ and are not at a high altitude. Change brands of gas. there may be some detergent or something in the brand you are using... or water.
Secondly... Have the plugs and coils checked. There are cases of fuel fouled plugs, even on very low mileage cars.
Also, there are cases of bad coils.
there will be no codes stored with any of these. (usually), so service will blow you off.. they need check engine codes to get paid (kinda). No service light or stored code, they wont want to help you.
BTW, a reading on the Consult should be about $70 (or under warranty). You may have to beg to get them to swap out coils until they find a bad one.
not fun. good luck
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
06-03-2001, 09:05 AM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 166
Re: Re: first...
Originally posted by y2kse
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
Geez your car must be loud huh?
Did You leave the resonator on?
can you make a wav file so i can hear it?
Thanx,
Fast Walker
06-03-2001, 10:36 AM
#54
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: City of the Fallen Angel, CA
Posts: 4,728
Re: Re: Re: first...
Originally posted by Fast Walker
Geez your car must be loud huh?
Did You leave the resonator on?
can you make a wav file so i can hear it?
Thanx,
Fast Walker
Geez your car must be loud huh?
Did You leave the resonator on?
can you make a wav file so i can hear it?
Thanx,
Fast Walker
06-03-2001, 10:59 PM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Re: Re: first...
Originally posted by y2kse
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
0-50kph : 3.74 sec
50-100kph : 5.95 sec
100-130kph : 7.52 sec
Hopefully the dealership won't mind drag racing with me.
Question : Any advice on how to respond if they ask me about the cut in my air intake and the 2 inch hole in my deflector?
06-04-2001, 05:37 AM
#56
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: 20th AE is slow
Originally posted by jopa
I feel that my 20th ae is slow too. I haven't tested against the clock but everything at stoplights pulls away from this car.
I was going to give the engine a little break-in time, plus give me time to discover the best RPM's for each gear and then check it again, but it sure feels weak.
Maybe they did like Mazda did with the Miata and mis-represent the HP numbers. Mazda got outed by Car & Driver when they realized that a new "supposedly" higher HP Miata was slower than a previous model. After a dyno test the results showed that Mazda misrepresented the numbers.
They ended up having to offer full refunds on all of the affected Miata's.
I feel that my 20th ae is slow too. I haven't tested against the clock but everything at stoplights pulls away from this car.
I was going to give the engine a little break-in time, plus give me time to discover the best RPM's for each gear and then check it again, but it sure feels weak.
Maybe they did like Mazda did with the Miata and mis-represent the HP numbers. Mazda got outed by Car & Driver when they realized that a new "supposedly" higher HP Miata was slower than a previous model. After a dyno test the results showed that Mazda misrepresented the numbers.
They ended up having to offer full refunds on all of the affected Miata's.
Test your self a few times with a stop watch and share your best times with us. If you can, race a 2000 SE (5SPD of course) to compare.
06-04-2001, 05:39 AM
#57
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Originally posted by Fast Walker
Sounds like a problem i was having..
My cpu dropped its memory the reprogramed it and away I went
A easy test is start the car and purt it in gear right away..
If the car stalls its the cpu
Good luck and try mor dealers or use the lemon law to force them to take it back.
You need five recepts for the same problem so make sure you get documentation from each dealership stating same problem. If they fight you it cost them 3x your fees including the price of the car so they will usually cave in. Thay are not going to make it easy.
Sounds like a problem i was having..
My cpu dropped its memory the reprogramed it and away I went
A easy test is start the car and purt it in gear right away..
If the car stalls its the cpu
Good luck and try mor dealers or use the lemon law to force them to take it back.
You need five recepts for the same problem so make sure you get documentation from each dealership stating same problem. If they fight you it cost them 3x your fees including the price of the car so they will usually cave in. Thay are not going to make it easy.
06-04-2001, 05:51 AM
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: I'm even crappier!
Originally posted by BlackAE
I have been less than impressed with my performance but never bothered to really look into it and never had any good races to realize how substandard my Maxima's performance was. Anyway, after reading your post I went out to the highway to check it out with my stopwatch. My first run was a pitiful 9.62 sec. Since it was windy and also to accomodate for any slope in the highway I returned in the opposite direction and got a 9.42! My wife's Suzuki can probably match those numbers! I did notice that the gears change at exactly 6000rpm but that still doesn't explain the slowness. After I had installed my OSCAI I had unplugged the battery for 45 minutes so I don't think the ECU is the problem. I'm doing it again right now (for 1 hour) and checking for floor mat/carpet problems. If I don't get some better numbers I'll have to take it in to Nissan. Thanks bramirez for bringing this to my attention, but I'm kind of depressed right now.
I have been less than impressed with my performance but never bothered to really look into it and never had any good races to realize how substandard my Maxima's performance was. Anyway, after reading your post I went out to the highway to check it out with my stopwatch. My first run was a pitiful 9.62 sec. Since it was windy and also to accomodate for any slope in the highway I returned in the opposite direction and got a 9.42! My wife's Suzuki can probably match those numbers! I did notice that the gears change at exactly 6000rpm but that still doesn't explain the slowness. After I had installed my OSCAI I had unplugged the battery for 45 minutes so I don't think the ECU is the problem. I'm doing it again right now (for 1 hour) and checking for floor mat/carpet problems. If I don't get some better numbers I'll have to take it in to Nissan. Thanks bramirez for bringing this to my attention, but I'm kind of depressed right now.
06-04-2001, 06:12 AM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 166
Originally posted by bramirez
Could you explain the "LEMON LAW". It may be worth looking into.
Could you explain the "LEMON LAW". It may be worth looking into.
Basically if you bring a car in for the same repair at least 5x for the same thing the manufacture is suppose to take it back for a full refund or give you a new car thats comparable for the same price.
I used this law against dodge on a Dakota because of paint defects. I had to go thru 3 interviews with dodge people who did there best to discourge me. I held my ground and during the last interview when I opened up a giant folder full of pictures and receipts from the dealer for repair the man caved and said get him whatever he wants.
They fear the giant documetation so keep track of every phone call, Letter and visit. Plus make sure you have receipts from the dealer stating problems.
Good Luck,
Fast Walker
06-04-2001, 07:00 AM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 915
Re: Re: Re: first...
Question : Any advice on how to respond if they ask me about the cut in my air intake and the 2 inch hole in my deflector?
-Tom Z.
PS.. I believe the warranty information for each state is printed inside the warranty booklet that came with your car...
06-05-2001, 05:50 AM
#62
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Originally posted by Fast Walker
The Lemon Law is a law that protests consumers from the purchase of a defective car. They very from state to state
Basically if you bring a car in for the same repair at least 5x for the same thing the manufacture is suppose to take it back for a full refund or give you a new car thats comparable for the same price.
I used this law against dodge on a Dakota because of paint defects. I had to go thru 3 interviews with dodge people who did there best to discourge me. I held my ground and during the last interview when I opened up a giant folder full of pictures and receipts from the dealer for repair the man caved and said get him whatever he wants.
They fear the giant documetation so keep track of every phone call, Letter and visit. Plus make sure you have receipts from the dealer stating problems.
Good Luck,
Fast Walker
The Lemon Law is a law that protests consumers from the purchase of a defective car. They very from state to state
Basically if you bring a car in for the same repair at least 5x for the same thing the manufacture is suppose to take it back for a full refund or give you a new car thats comparable for the same price.
I used this law against dodge on a Dakota because of paint defects. I had to go thru 3 interviews with dodge people who did there best to discourge me. I held my ground and during the last interview when I opened up a giant folder full of pictures and receipts from the dealer for repair the man caved and said get him whatever he wants.
They fear the giant documetation so keep track of every phone call, Letter and visit. Plus make sure you have receipts from the dealer stating problems.
Good Luck,
Fast Walker
06-05-2001, 06:12 AM
#63
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Originally posted by BlackAE
I'm still getting pitiful numbers no matter how you look at it. I just took off the OSCAI and K&N filter and took it back to same stretch of highway. Now I'm getting 9.85sec. I took it to a differant road and got 10.2sec. Hey, at least the OSCAI seems to have made a differance. I'm thinking I really must have abused the poor thing. The engine sounds fine but, then again, I'm no expert in this regard and it's still only got 3500km on it. When I took the K&N filter out I noticed a lot of sand and grit around the edges. Is it possible that this same sand and grit has been squeezing around the edges of the filter and entering the engine? Crikey, I hope not!
What would happen if this is the case? Is it possible that I have wrecked my engine by installing the OSCAI with K&N? What symptoms would be expected? What can be done to repair the engine if this did happen? I'm worried that the technicians at Nissan will ask too many questions, notice the hole in my splash-guard, take a look at the air scoop and figure out what I've been up to and blame it on my modification.
I'm still getting pitiful numbers no matter how you look at it. I just took off the OSCAI and K&N filter and took it back to same stretch of highway. Now I'm getting 9.85sec. I took it to a differant road and got 10.2sec. Hey, at least the OSCAI seems to have made a differance. I'm thinking I really must have abused the poor thing. The engine sounds fine but, then again, I'm no expert in this regard and it's still only got 3500km on it. When I took the K&N filter out I noticed a lot of sand and grit around the edges. Is it possible that this same sand and grit has been squeezing around the edges of the filter and entering the engine? Crikey, I hope not!
What would happen if this is the case? Is it possible that I have wrecked my engine by installing the OSCAI with K&N? What symptoms would be expected? What can be done to repair the engine if this did happen? I'm worried that the technicians at Nissan will ask too many questions, notice the hole in my splash-guard, take a look at the air scoop and figure out what I've been up to and blame it on my modification.
Keep us posted on your times.
06-05-2001, 06:24 AM
#64
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: Re: Re: Re: slow 20th
Originally posted by seunghwany76
seems like 20th SE owner having troble
i just got my 20th SE last week...and i have not checked the 0-60 yet...but i feel like my 20th fast!
even 5more HP...it supposed to be..i think
does 5 more HP really work?
seems like 20th SE owner having troble
i just got my 20th SE last week...and i have not checked the 0-60 yet...but i feel like my 20th fast!
even 5more HP...it supposed to be..i think
does 5 more HP really work?
06-05-2001, 06:42 AM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 203
Re: Re: Re: 0-100kmh and 0-60mph are similar, but NOT the same...
Originally posted by bramirez
My AE was also in the 9 sec range. I took it to the dealer and they reset the computer and cleared the throttle. This seemed to take me to 8.35 secs (this is an average. The lowest I've had is 7.97). Although I highly doubt that this would be the problem check for excessive mats under the gas pedal (Mat theory: Courtesy NISSAN techies)
Keep us posted on your times.
My AE was also in the 9 sec range. I took it to the dealer and they reset the computer and cleared the throttle. This seemed to take me to 8.35 secs (this is an average. The lowest I've had is 7.97). Although I highly doubt that this would be the problem check for excessive mats under the gas pedal (Mat theory: Courtesy NISSAN techies)
Keep us posted on your times.
0-100kph : best = 8.77s (ave 9.55s)
0-50kph : best = 3.58s (ave 3.66s)
50-100kph : best = 5.67s (ave 5.90s)
100-130kph : tested twice at 8.30s and 6.74s
Mostly I've been checking 0-100kph so this will be my gauge since I consistantly get mid 9 second times. For the sake of consistancy I check times on the same section of highway.
06-05-2001, 08:43 AM
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
You should DEFINITELY take your car to the dragstrip to see what you can do a timed 1/4 mile in. Your own 'caculations' are not going to be as accurate as the dragstrip's timer. You should also find another maxima and try to con the person into letting you take it for a run for a comparo (since no two drivers are the same).
06-05-2001, 08:45 AM
#68
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Location: City of the Fallen Angel, CA
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Re: i dont get it..
Originally posted by TimW
why dont you dyno? it would correct for all of this.
why dont you dyno? it would correct for all of this.
06-05-2001, 09:00 AM
#69
Re: Re: i dont get it..
Originally posted by y2kse
Yet another penetrating observation from TimW. I'm getting tired of standing behind you waving the flag, Tim. Say something wrong so I can pound on you, damn it!
Yet another penetrating observation from TimW. I'm getting tired of standing behind you waving the flag, Tim. Say something wrong so I can pound on you, damn it!
Tim's using common sense, which shouldn't even be regarded as a response.
</sarcasm>
06-05-2001, 09:28 AM
#71
Re: You really need to
Originally posted by TimW
change your kanooter valve... then check your muffler bearings... its all all about ball bearings these days..
there, I did it
change your kanooter valve... then check your muffler bearings... its all all about ball bearings these days..
there, I did it
The flux capacitor could be faulty also. Isn't there TSB for that?
06-05-2001, 10:40 AM
#72
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Re: Re: first...
Originally posted by y2kse
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
You guys are not going to like this, but Tim's response is dead on the money. The only thing he didn't mention was to service the injectors, but he alluded to that in his recommendation on changing gasoline brands.
Whether we like it our not, our 5th Gen Maximas have high-performance, high-compression engines. The higher the performance, the lower the tolerance for such things as fouled injectors, leaky coils, fuel additives and the like. On top of that, our ECM diagnostics are not sensitive enough to keep pace with the demands of our engines. So oftentimes you'll know that something's wrong but the ECM lacks the ability to diagnose it.
I just went through this with Nissan. I was suffering an intermittent detonation/hesitation problem. The engine just didn't seem to want to pull properly, particularly at low rpms. Using a combination of persistence and a whole lot of patience, I eventually persuaded Nissan to provide me with a new set of coils even though my ECM never generated a Check Engine Light and I was never able to replicate the problem in front of my dealer. When my dealer swapped out the coils, I also had them service the injectors at my own expense. That seems to have fixed the problem . . . at least for now.
For more information, do a search in the 5th Gen Forum under the following:
Gasoline
Unocal
Coils
Detonation
Knock
Ping
By the way, I doubt the K&N Panel Filter is the problem. The stock airbox holds the filter tightly against the filter housing. It's practically impossible for foreign material to enter from around the sides of the filter. Also, I don't recommend spending your money on a Consult diagnostic. If your ECM hasn't thrown a Check Engine Light, it probably hasn't stored an error code either.
Lack of power at low rpm seems to be my problem. That is why I was getting 0-60 in the 9's. After the dealer cleared the throttle and reset the computer I went down to the 8's. Tell me what your best times were and what they are now after changing the coils and servicing the injectors.
06-05-2001, 02:24 PM
#73
Listen to TimW.
If a lack of low-end power is the problem, I'd also check the intake manifold-- just speculation, but the butterfly valve may be damaged? I've never heard of that happening before, though.
Take it to the dyno and see what kind of power you make. It should be at least 180fwhp SAE corrected, I've seen as high as 190fwhp uncorrected. Compare to stock dyno graphs from other 5th gen owners.
Beyond that, it's been said in this thread. I'm just an enthusiast, not an expert.
If a lack of low-end power is the problem, I'd also check the intake manifold-- just speculation, but the butterfly valve may be damaged? I've never heard of that happening before, though.
Take it to the dyno and see what kind of power you make. It should be at least 180fwhp SAE corrected, I've seen as high as 190fwhp uncorrected. Compare to stock dyno graphs from other 5th gen owners.
Beyond that, it's been said in this thread. I'm just an enthusiast, not an expert.
06-05-2001, 02:38 PM
#74
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Location: City of the Fallen Angel, CA
Posts: 4,728
Re: You really need to
Originally posted by TimW
change your kanooter valve... then check your muffler bearings... its all all about ball bearings these days..
there, I did it
change your kanooter valve... then check your muffler bearings... its all all about ball bearings these days..
there, I did it
06-15-2001, 08:29 AM
#75
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 195
Originally posted by emax95
I will be testing out my soon to be 2K1 max and see just how fast it is. I think a fully unloaded GXE on 15" Hub Caps and a almost empty tank of gas will be preatty close but not quite as quick. I don't know what the deal is with my 95 max but it is hella fast! I have wrecked so many cars with my max it's not even funny, the only car that ever beat me was a BMW 540I but just barely.
I will be testing out my soon to be 2K1 max and see just how fast it is. I think a fully unloaded GXE on 15" Hub Caps and a almost empty tank of gas will be preatty close but not quite as quick. I don't know what the deal is with my 95 max but it is hella fast! I have wrecked so many cars with my max it's not even funny, the only car that ever beat me was a BMW 540I but just barely.
One more thing. How did you get your 95 Max to do 0-60 in just over 6s? Was this time before or after mods? Have you tried other 95s and achieved the same results?
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