Bleed Brakes help
#3
this is in the how to thread in faq section above
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....38#post3092338
How To Change Rotors And Brake Pads
POLO's write up on HOW TO CHANGE ROTORS
_____________________________________________
14mm removes caliper (2, 1 on top, 1 on bottom)
17mm (unsure, but i think so) removes caliper bracket (2)
the rotor may be rusted on, but after the caliper bracket comes off, the rotor should LITERALLY come right out. i took a rubber hammer and smacked it a bit and it came loose.
slap new rotor on, bracket goes back on.
make sure you grease the spacing between the shims and the pads. also make sure where the pad sits, that it's clean aka any rust spots or bumps. that's where the pad rides so you want it's path clear. place pad, use piece of wood and c-clamp to push caliper piston back (thicker pad means the piston is already in cause it's what held the old pad in) before you do that though, unscrew the brake fluid cap. keep an eye on it so that when you push the piston in, the fluid level will rise. if it looks like it's gonna spill, soak some up with paper towel. put caliper on again, tighten up. pump pedal couple time until you feel the piston hits the pad. repeat on other side. when all is said and done, check fluid level. if you soaked too much, fill to level. if not, then just close up fluid cap. last but not least, and please don't forget........put your wheels back on
as much as this looks like cliffnotes, there really is nothing more to do. enjoy
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....38#post3092338
How To Change Rotors And Brake Pads
POLO's write up on HOW TO CHANGE ROTORS
_____________________________________________
14mm removes caliper (2, 1 on top, 1 on bottom)
17mm (unsure, but i think so) removes caliper bracket (2)
the rotor may be rusted on, but after the caliper bracket comes off, the rotor should LITERALLY come right out. i took a rubber hammer and smacked it a bit and it came loose.
slap new rotor on, bracket goes back on.
make sure you grease the spacing between the shims and the pads. also make sure where the pad sits, that it's clean aka any rust spots or bumps. that's where the pad rides so you want it's path clear. place pad, use piece of wood and c-clamp to push caliper piston back (thicker pad means the piston is already in cause it's what held the old pad in) before you do that though, unscrew the brake fluid cap. keep an eye on it so that when you push the piston in, the fluid level will rise. if it looks like it's gonna spill, soak some up with paper towel. put caliper on again, tighten up. pump pedal couple time until you feel the piston hits the pad. repeat on other side. when all is said and done, check fluid level. if you soaked too much, fill to level. if not, then just close up fluid cap. last but not least, and please don't forget........put your wheels back on
as much as this looks like cliffnotes, there really is nothing more to do. enjoy
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
You only have to beed the brake system when air would get into the lines, like when you change the caliper, brake lines, or master cylinder. Changing the pads will just push some of that fluid back into the master cylinder and not require bleeding. There is also a service interval where changing the the brake fluid is called for. That would definitely demand bleeding.
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