Just got a New Engine - Help
12-16-2005, 07:28 AM
#1
Just got a New Engine - Help
Hey guys,
I finally got my engine replaced and picked up my car last night. I was dealing with the engine rattling and clicking noises that have been common to most of our cars. It took 2.5 months to get it done but the dealer ship finally agreed to replace the engine since they could not find the problem after they replaced the VTC Sprockets. I have a couple questions, hopefully someone can help:
•Why does my car seem sluggish? Is it because the engine is new?
•The mechanic told me not to go over 65MPH and to baby the car until my first oil change. At that point the engine should be broken in. But is this the reason why it seems a little slow because it is new?
•Also can I switch to Synthetic at my first oil change?
Thanks any help is appreciated.
I finally got my engine replaced and picked up my car last night. I was dealing with the engine rattling and clicking noises that have been common to most of our cars. It took 2.5 months to get it done but the dealer ship finally agreed to replace the engine since they could not find the problem after they replaced the VTC Sprockets. I have a couple questions, hopefully someone can help:
•Why does my car seem sluggish? Is it because the engine is new?
•The mechanic told me not to go over 65MPH and to baby the car until my first oil change. At that point the engine should be broken in. But is this the reason why it seems a little slow because it is new?
•Also can I switch to Synthetic at my first oil change?
Thanks any help is appreciated.
12-16-2005, 07:47 AM
#2
Congrats on the new engine 
I am not sure what you are referring to as sluggish. I would verify that everything was hooked up properly, vacuum lines, intake, etc. as they may have missed something...
The recommendation was right to take it easy for first 500-600 miles and then do the oil change. You could go with synthetic right away, no issues there...
I am not sure what you are referring to as sluggish. I would verify that everything was hooked up properly, vacuum lines, intake, etc. as they may have missed something...
The recommendation was right to take it easy for first 500-600 miles and then do the oil change. You could go with synthetic right away, no issues there...
12-16-2005, 07:48 AM
#3
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
Hey guys,
I finally got my engine replaced and picked up my car last night. I was dealing with the engine rattling and clicking noises that have been common to most of our cars. It took 2.5 months to get it done but the dealer ship finally agreed to replace the engine since they could not find the problem after they replaced the VTC Sprockets. I have a couple questions, hopefully someone can help:
•Why does my car seem sluggish? Is it because the engine is new?
•The mechanic told me not to go over 65MPH and to baby the car until my first oil change. At that point the engine should be broken in. But is this the reason why it seems a little slow because it is new?
•Also can I switch to Synthetic at my first oil change?
Thanks any help is appreciated.
I finally got my engine replaced and picked up my car last night. I was dealing with the engine rattling and clicking noises that have been common to most of our cars. It took 2.5 months to get it done but the dealer ship finally agreed to replace the engine since they could not find the problem after they replaced the VTC Sprockets. I have a couple questions, hopefully someone can help:
•Why does my car seem sluggish? Is it because the engine is new?
•The mechanic told me not to go over 65MPH and to baby the car until my first oil change. At that point the engine should be broken in. But is this the reason why it seems a little slow because it is new?
•Also can I switch to Synthetic at my first oil change?
Thanks any help is appreciated.
B) Break-in has nothing to do with MPH and everything to do with RPM. Keep your RPM's low or else you'll just have more problems in another 25k.
C) yes.
Your engine needs to break in before it'll rev up like the old. It takes time to wear in the seals, rings, and bearings properly.
12-16-2005, 07:48 AM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 20
If you are "babying" the engine, wouldn't your car be sluggish by default? 
Anyway, on new engines I have built (not Nissans), I was never too worried about a max speed during break-in. I was more concerned with max RPMs, not revving it too fast and not maintaining the same RPM for extended periods of time. Personally, I wouldn't switch to synthetic until the 2nd or 3rd oil change.
Anyway, on new engines I have built (not Nissans), I was never too worried about a max speed during break-in. I was more concerned with max RPMs, not revving it too fast and not maintaining the same RPM for extended periods of time. Personally, I wouldn't switch to synthetic until the 2nd or 3rd oil change.
12-16-2005, 07:50 AM
#5
Yes, baby the engine until the first oil change. No high revs or power shifting. You can switch to synthetic at any time.
After the first oil change, if it stills seems sluggish, take a mechanic out for a ride and show him. It may or may not be in your head.
After the first oil change, if it stills seems sluggish, take a mechanic out for a ride and show him. It may or may not be in your head.
12-16-2005, 07:59 AM
#6
Thanks for your responses guys.
The problem is it just seems to have trouble to get up over 2000rpms when I first accelerate. That is what bugs me. I only pushed it once or twice but I did not go over 2500 rpms. I guess I just have to wait and see how it rides after a couple thousand miles.
The problem is it just seems to have trouble to get up over 2000rpms when I first accelerate. That is what bugs me. I only pushed it once or twice but I did not go over 2500 rpms. I guess I just have to wait and see how it rides after a couple thousand miles.
12-16-2005, 08:04 AM
#7
Originally Posted by GBAUER
A) you should not know if it is sluggish because you should be treating it like the baby it is until you get your oil changed.
B) Break-in has nothing to do with MPH and everything to do with RPM. Keep your RPM's low or else you'll just have more problems in another 25k.
C) yes.
Your engine needs to break in before it'll rev up like the old. It takes time to wear in the seals, rings, and bearings properly.
B) Break-in has nothing to do with MPH and everything to do with RPM. Keep your RPM's low or else you'll just have more problems in another 25k.
C) yes.
Your engine needs to break in before it'll rev up like the old. It takes time to wear in the seals, rings, and bearings properly.
Do you think I should take it slow for about 2000 miles, then do an oil change and then take slow for another 1000 and then it should be broken in?
When you say low RPM’s do you mean between 2000 and 3000?
12-16-2005, 08:13 AM
#8
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
I was not sure of all of this as the mechanic did not specify too much. I know it is common sense to take it slow, but it is hard to resist testing it out and making sure the guy did a good job installing it. I am just sick of dealing with engine problems.
Do you think I should take it slow for about 2000 miles, then do an oil change and then take slow for another 1000 and then it should be broken in?
When you say low RPM’s do you mean between 2000 and 3000?
Do you think I should take it slow for about 2000 miles, then do an oil change and then take slow for another 1000 and then it should be broken in?
When you say low RPM’s do you mean between 2000 and 3000?
-change your oil at no more than 1,000 miles.
-read the owner's manual for more details on how to break in the engine.
12-16-2005, 08:16 AM
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 20
Typically, the 1st oil change is usually 500 miles, so you can get rid of all of metal particles of the rings and bearings cuased by the break-in process. I definitely wouldn't wait until 2000 miles for the 1st oil change.
12-16-2005, 08:16 AM
#10
Originally Posted by GBAUER
-rpm's below 3k
-change your oil at no more than 1,000 miles.
-read the owner's manual for more details on how to break in the engine.
-change your oil at no more than 1,000 miles.
-read the owner's manual for more details on how to break in the engine.
Thanks
12-16-2005, 08:18 AM
#12
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
Why should I not wait more then 1000 miles to change the oil?
Thanks
Thanks
12-16-2005, 08:24 AM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Missouri
Posts: 20
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
I posted the last post before I read gateway_sc's post. That is what one of my friends said as well. But he seemed to think you could put 2000 miles on it.
Now who else snuck in front of me while I was posting?
12-16-2005, 08:32 AM
#16
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
Stupid question, but now I’m getting paranoid that I pushed it a little hard, when I accelerated a little bit twice but did not go over 2500RPM. Was that o.k.?
you're fine.
12-16-2005, 08:49 AM
#18
All the engines I ever rebuilt (a few) I replaced oil after 500 miles and when you do it, you will know why Most of the breaking in happens then and the filter will get clogged up with debree and you will want to get rid of them as soon as possible and eliminate the risk of them floating in oil and damaging the engine... Revs you want to keep down as the parts are still aligning during break-in and over-reving it may mess things up badly...
Most of the breaking in happens then and the filter will get clogged up with debree and you will want to get rid of them as soon as possible and eliminate the risk of them floating in oil and damaging the engine... Revs you want to keep down as the parts are still aligning during break-in and over-reving it may mess things up badly...
12-16-2005, 09:10 AM
#20
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
Well, which is it, should I do it at 500 or 1000? After that change then it is back to normal, changing it after every 3000 right?
12-20-2005, 08:32 AM
#24
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 301
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
I just looked at my trip screen and noticed that I am averaging 18.5 MPG. Before I got the new motor I averaged 23 MPG. Does anyone have an idea as to why this is occurring?
Because you are looking at our garbage mpg meter. Finish your tank and calculate your true gas mileage before you worrry. Also, engines tend to go up in mpg when they are broken in.
James
12-20-2005, 08:39 AM
#25
Originally Posted by jimmycapp
Because you are looking at our garbage mpg meter. Finish your tank and calculate your true gas mileage before you worrry. Also, engines tend to go up in mpg when they are broken in.
James
James
Fill the tank up, reset the trip, drive it till you're almost empty or halfway or whatever, take note of the miles you've covered, fill it up and see how much gas you used, divide the # miles by the # gallons filled = mpg.
12-20-2005, 09:35 AM
#27
There are several schools of thought on engine break-in.
You guys can disagree with me all day long, but after my engine rebuild on my mustang I did a lot of research on how to properly "break in" the engine. Best way to do it, in my and many, many other prefessionals opinion, is heat the internals going fast, let the car "engine break" down to about 30, coast for ahile to cool the internals, do this a few more times to allow everything to seat correctly under a load, not just seat on "easy driving". Then change the oil to ride of the metal shavings from the way they wear to "seat" This allows everything to seat in the correct place, the place they will wear "under load".....
---an old thread I dug up when I rebuilt my Stang.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...engine+rebuild
damnitt, im going to stop quoting, it keeps moving my thread from bottom to right underneath
You guys can disagree with me all day long, but after my engine rebuild on my mustang I did a lot of research on how to properly "break in" the engine. Best way to do it, in my and many, many other prefessionals opinion, is heat the internals going fast, let the car "engine break" down to about 30, coast for ahile to cool the internals, do this a few more times to allow everything to seat correctly under a load, not just seat on "easy driving". Then change the oil to ride of the metal shavings from the way they wear to "seat" This allows everything to seat in the correct place, the place they will wear "under load".....
---an old thread I dug up when I rebuilt my Stang.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthrea...engine+rebuild
damnitt, im going to stop quoting, it keeps moving my thread from bottom to right underneath
12-20-2005, 11:59 AM
#28
here are some more links on why you don't "baby" it.
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/artic..._to_amsoil.htm
or
http://www.taperformance.com/howto.htm
don't get me wrong, you don't want to WOT all over town. Just make sure you speed up and "engine break" down as often as possible. And don't let it sit at idle for 1/2 an hour everyday.
heres another with really good information, altough really extreme, he backs up his info with pictures and theorys- He's a biker though - 4 stroke just like ours.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
sometimes the second link works sometimes it doesnt. Try copying and pasting if it doesn't, not sure why but that seems to work.
http://www.smartsynthetics.com/artic..._to_amsoil.htm
or
http://www.taperformance.com/howto.htm
don't get me wrong, you don't want to WOT all over town. Just make sure you speed up and "engine break" down as often as possible. And don't let it sit at idle for 1/2 an hour everyday.
heres another with really good information, altough really extreme, he backs up his info with pictures and theorys- He's a biker though - 4 stroke just like ours.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
sometimes the second link works sometimes it doesnt. Try copying and pasting if it doesn't, not sure why but that seems to work.
12-20-2005, 02:41 PM
#29
well, according to my college professor, cars nowadays dont need to be broken in. The brake in period was recommended for the older cars back in the days when machining tools werent as precise. the break in period was used to polish out the kinks and smooth out the moving parts in the engine. Nowadays, engines parts are machined and polished so smoothly to where you don't need to break in the engines, unless its a rebuilt engine. And I know he knows what he's talking about since he has a Masters in ME and he's the Lead Professor in our SAE team. He supervised the formula 1 car that we built.
12-20-2005, 02:56 PM
#30
There are several schools of thought on engine break-in....
This is an understatement by far.... What is agreed by almost everyone who has any knowledge, however, is that just allowing a car to idle and "baby" is the wrong thig to do, and almost all will agree to change the oil of much as possible for the first 500-1000 miles....(Depending on who you talk too.)
We also have an ASE Mastertech for over 15 years and I get alot of my info from the racers out at the strip and circletrack.-They all concur.
EDIT: to get back on topic and answer the question of the original post... I don't think your mechanic knows a anything. You should not feel any power loss at all, IMO. I would read my owners manual and see what the break-in mileage is. (That way when you go back to the dealership they can't tell you that you beat it while "breaking in" the engine.... After you go that many miles go back to the dealer and tell them you have a power loss as compared to the original engine. If they don't beleive you, demand someone else test drive it and another vehicle, let them know about your MPG and other problems.--If all else fails call corporate or go to another dealer.--If all above fails threaten to call ????the governemnt-not sure who, you would have to research???? about your excessive fuel consumption and false advertising claim of mpg. (after you verify with fuel tank.)
This is an understatement by far.... What is agreed by almost everyone who has any knowledge, however, is that just allowing a car to idle and "baby" is the wrong thig to do, and almost all will agree to change the oil of much as possible for the first 500-1000 miles....(Depending on who you talk too.)
We also have an ASE Mastertech for over 15 years and I get alot of my info from the racers out at the strip and circletrack.-They all concur.
EDIT: to get back on topic and answer the question of the original post... I don't think your mechanic knows a anything. You should not feel any power loss at all, IMO. I would read my owners manual and see what the break-in mileage is. (That way when you go back to the dealership they can't tell you that you beat it while "breaking in" the engine.... After you go that many miles go back to the dealer and tell them you have a power loss as compared to the original engine. If they don't beleive you, demand someone else test drive it and another vehicle, let them know about your MPG and other problems.--If all else fails call corporate or go to another dealer.--If all above fails threaten to call ????the governemnt-not sure who, you would have to research???? about your excessive fuel consumption and false advertising claim of mpg. (after you verify with fuel tank.)
12-21-2005, 10:49 PM
#31
If you think the rings aren't seated correctly, you could simply do a compression check.
Heres the year 2000 Maxima specs
Standard 1,275 kPa
Minimum 981 kPa
Differential Limit Between Cylinders 98 kPa
1KPa = 0.145psi
so 184.87 psi max
142.25 minimum and
14 psi difference between best/worse cylinder max.....
I would say something is wrong though. If the car runs fine and the only problem is a power loss after the complete break in. Try the compression test, see how well the internals have "seated".
You can buy the gauge from harbor freight for around $15-$20 and it is no harder than doing a simple tune up. (remove spark plugs, screw pressure tester into spark plug hole, crank engine 4 revolutions, record readings, do next cylinder the same way.)...if your good to go, well it took maybe 1 hour of your life for the reassurance.
Keep in mind these are NISSAN's specifications, and these specs are very tight..(usually you think 20% max in difference, they are less than 10%). So if your car is almost out of warranty you might just want to do one of these just so they have to replace your engine for free if you have any other problems.
Please keep us updated, I'm curious what will happen with this "power loss" issue. Thanks
Heres the year 2000 Maxima specs
Standard 1,275 kPa
Minimum 981 kPa
Differential Limit Between Cylinders 98 kPa
1KPa = 0.145psi
so 184.87 psi max
142.25 minimum and
14 psi difference between best/worse cylinder max.....
I would say something is wrong though. If the car runs fine and the only problem is a power loss after the complete break in. Try the compression test, see how well the internals have "seated".
You can buy the gauge from harbor freight for around $15-$20 and it is no harder than doing a simple tune up. (remove spark plugs, screw pressure tester into spark plug hole, crank engine 4 revolutions, record readings, do next cylinder the same way.)...if your good to go, well it took maybe 1 hour of your life for the reassurance.
Keep in mind these are NISSAN's specifications, and these specs are very tight..(usually you think 20% max in difference, they are less than 10%). So if your car is almost out of warranty you might just want to do one of these just so they have to replace your engine for free if you have any other problems.
Please keep us updated, I'm curious what will happen with this "power loss" issue. Thanks
12-22-2005, 07:19 AM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 8
02 GLE Lost Drive
Need access to start thread. Tired of walking
Sorry to break in but am denied access to start Thread.
My 02 GLE had been making a right front grinding noise. No noticable CV damage (boot is perfect) but some plastic shrouding rubbing. Removed shrouding and noise continued (mostly while getting underway and cornering). Just lost drive on way home, throttle and engine run fine in neutral but in and drive gear throttle drops to idle and won't respond. Lights and electrics soon dimmed and barely idled into driveway?????? No dash warning lights????
Bose/Clarion system was replaced 5 times under warranty (Nissan uses refurbished parts for warranty work, look closely for blue paint marks on driveline, they may knowingly put defective, refurbished parts in "NEW" vehicles also. Radio works but CD quit (getting ERR F3 code) any ideas?
Sorry to break in but am denied access to start Thread.
My 02 GLE had been making a right front grinding noise. No noticable CV damage (boot is perfect) but some plastic shrouding rubbing. Removed shrouding and noise continued (mostly while getting underway and cornering). Just lost drive on way home, throttle and engine run fine in neutral but in and drive gear throttle drops to idle and won't respond. Lights and electrics soon dimmed and barely idled into driveway?????? No dash warning lights????
Bose/Clarion system was replaced 5 times under warranty (Nissan uses refurbished parts for warranty work, look closely for blue paint marks on driveline, they may knowingly put defective, refurbished parts in "NEW" vehicles also. Radio works but CD quit (getting ERR F3 code) any ideas?
12-22-2005, 09:00 AM
#34
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
There are several schools of thought on engine break-in....
This is an understatement by far.... What is agreed by almost everyone who has any knowledge, however, is that just allowing a car to idle and "baby" is the wrong thig to do, and almost all will agree to change the oil of much as possible for the first 500-1000 miles....(Depending on who you talk too.)
We also have an ASE Mastertech for over 15 years and I get alot of my info from the racers out at the strip and circletrack.-They all concur.
EDIT: to get back on topic and answer the question of the original post... I don't think your mechanic knows a anything. You should not feel any power loss at all, IMO. I would read my owners manual and see what the break-in mileage is. (That way when you go back to the dealership they can't tell you that you beat it while "breaking in" the engine.... After you go that many miles go back to the dealer and tell them you have a power loss as compared to the original engine. If they don't beleive you, demand someone else test drive it and another vehicle, let them know about your MPG and other problems.--If all else fails call corporate or go to another dealer.--If all above fails threaten to call ????the governemnt-not sure who, you would have to research???? about your excessive fuel consumption and false advertising claim of mpg. (after you verify with fuel tank.)
This is an understatement by far.... What is agreed by almost everyone who has any knowledge, however, is that just allowing a car to idle and "baby" is the wrong thig to do, and almost all will agree to change the oil of much as possible for the first 500-1000 miles....(Depending on who you talk too.)
We also have an ASE Mastertech for over 15 years and I get alot of my info from the racers out at the strip and circletrack.-They all concur.
EDIT: to get back on topic and answer the question of the original post... I don't think your mechanic knows a anything. You should not feel any power loss at all, IMO. I would read my owners manual and see what the break-in mileage is. (That way when you go back to the dealership they can't tell you that you beat it while "breaking in" the engine.... After you go that many miles go back to the dealer and tell them you have a power loss as compared to the original engine. If they don't beleive you, demand someone else test drive it and another vehicle, let them know about your MPG and other problems.--If all else fails call corporate or go to another dealer.--If all above fails threaten to call ????the governemnt-not sure who, you would have to research???? about your excessive fuel consumption and false advertising claim of mpg. (after you verify with fuel tank.)
12-22-2005, 07:38 PM
#35
When they replaced the engine, did they give you a 100% brand new crate engine, or a factory rebuild? If you got a factory rebuild, did they replace the sensors, hoses, etc or did they swap them over?
I had ford replace an engine under warranty for a pos I had. They ended up swapping everything over and did a poor job of it. I looked under the hood and some things just didn't look clean like how they were from factory. Everything worked. However, I later discovered that they didn't ground the engine properly, and a cam position sensor went out. I dont want to scare you, but look under the hood and make sure everything looks good.
I had ford replace an engine under warranty for a pos I had. They ended up swapping everything over and did a poor job of it. I looked under the hood and some things just didn't look clean like how they were from factory. Everything worked. However, I later discovered that they didn't ground the engine properly, and a cam position sensor went out. I dont want to scare you, but look under the hood and make sure everything looks good.
12-22-2005, 07:44 PM
#36
Originally Posted by 03maxima1
I am confused. I have put about 270 miles on the new motor. I drive it by gradually building up speed and not going over 2500 RPMs. Is this wrong? If not how long should I do this for? Also should I get an oil change at 500 or not? thanks for your input. About the sluggish part, maybe it is my MAF sensor.
12-22-2005, 08:34 PM
#37
unreal brings up some good points.. I am assumming since it was "rattles" and such they replaced it with a whole new long block???--I would call and ask if you got a shortblock or the whole kittenkaboodle.--My guess is they gave you a long block minus alternator, ps pump, etc. To me giving you a shortblock would make no sence since with the labor rate involved they would have probably just fixed yours.
12-25-2005, 09:40 AM
#38
Originally Posted by unrealii
When they replaced the engine, did they give you a 100% brand new crate engine, or a factory rebuild? If you got a factory rebuild, did they replace the sensors, hoses, etc or did they swap them over?
I had ford replace an engine under warranty for a pos I had. They ended up swapping everything over and did a poor job of it. I looked under the hood and some things just didn't look clean like how they were from factory. Everything worked. However, I later discovered that they didn't ground the engine properly, and a cam position sensor went out. I dont want to scare you, but look under the hood and make sure everything looks good.
I had ford replace an engine under warranty for a pos I had. They ended up swapping everything over and did a poor job of it. I looked under the hood and some things just didn't look clean like how they were from factory. Everything worked. However, I later discovered that they didn't ground the engine properly, and a cam position sensor went out. I dont want to scare you, but look under the hood and make sure everything looks good.
12-25-2005, 09:45 AM
#39
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
unreal brings up some good points.. I am assumming since it was "rattles" and such they replaced it with a whole new long block???--I would call and ask if you got a shortblock or the whole kittenkaboodle.--My guess is they gave you a long block minus alternator, ps pump, etc. To me giving you a shortblock would make no sence since with the labor rate involved they would have probably just fixed yours.
12-25-2005, 09:54 AM
#40
I dont know if autozone rents out scanners, but a suggestion might be to monitor all of your sensors and see if they are reading within spec.
Another thought, someone correct me if I am wrong, but the computer sets its parameters on how you drive the car. Since you are driving it soft, it may set the engine to soft. You could disconnect the battery, then let it relearn. - Just another idea, I could be completely wrong on this.
Another thought, someone correct me if I am wrong, but the computer sets its parameters on how you drive the car. Since you are driving it soft, it may set the engine to soft. You could disconnect the battery, then let it relearn. - Just another idea, I could be completely wrong on this.