Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

I think, those numbers don't matter much - each 'coil' is a hole assembly consisting of multiple electronic components. Measuring its 'resistance' is quite meaningless as it doesn't carry any useful info. Buying 2 new coils (front and rear) and substituting them one by one is much more productive exercise if you can't figure out which one is faulty when engine starts running rough. If it doesn't run rough ever (on 5 cylinders) then it is probably not coils at all.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thanks. I'm going to try my luck going through the procedures in the FSM even though I'm terrible with electronics. I just hope I don't damage a circuit in the process. It looks like basically, as long as I ground the negative probe on a ground point I should be ok during testing.

Question, I think you mentioned something about testing fuses to be sure they are working/not working. How do you test a fuse?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Question...the FSM has a step about check harness for open or short between ECM relay and condenser. How exactly do I check for an open or short because there is no guidance given with the CONSULT or tester? The only other information is harness connectors F18, E15.

There are also other steps that say check "short to ground or short to power", how do I check this specifically when it comes to terminals?

Last step of the FSM check for P1320 is the ignition coil resistance check. The FSM states as long as resistance is not 0 ohms it is ok. Just to verify, I'm assuming an infinite ohms reading would NOT be 0 ohms? If so, then my ignition coils are OK per the FSM.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

You have to come up with overall direction of your testing otherwise you'll just waste your time. It's not so much about 'how' as about 'what'. You have to understand how you're going to interpret result later before starting the test.

I said a lot of things and I hope you're not taking them out of context. Fuse is just piece of wire which is made to sustain certain level of current flowing through it. When current exceeds that level fuse 'blows'- internal wire simply breaks. So the 'test' follows from this description- you switch your multimeter to measure resistance and connect its ends to the fuse ends (taking it out from the car first). Good fuse will show 0 resistance while blown one - close to infinity.

This way is less productive compare to visual inspection but it gives sure answer. You also have to pay attention and switch multimeter back to voltage measurement before using it to measure voltages. If you don't do so some old multimeters can be damaged if you forget to do that and try to measure 'resistance' of the battery by mistake.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Thank you...my direction is the FSM at this point. I'll just take my time and go through step by step starting at the first step. I'm just trying to get a handle on the nomenclature (wording) used in the FSM to make sure I test things appropriately.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

If all you trying to do is to solve you misfire mystery and your engine runs rough when it happens it's one of the coils 99.9%. The problem is often intermittent and when it happens you have to carefully park somewhere safe and without shutting down engine and without making any abrupt moves (for not to spook it) quietly and slowly open the hood and start pulling coil connectors one at a time. The one which won't make engine running worse is your culprit. I'm not kidding (much) as slight vibration sometimes brings coil back to life and you will have to wait another opportunity. I was hunting for weeks when my last coil went bad - it kept failing at the most inconvenient moments up to the point that I started to think it can see me .

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Good point, did you have a P1320 code during your process of finding the bad coil? I only had it misfire rough yesterday. The P1320 popped up while I had my starting issues and the car was feeling fine, no rough running or misfiring as far as I could tell. Maybe my luck is that bad?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Well..my car started misfiring again today while running some errands. The misfire is very intermittent that unplugging a coil was not helping to diagnose since it would basically misfire that cylinder all of the time. The misfiring I experienced was a tick here and a tick there. I picked up a front and rear coil so I'll be changing them out one by one until the issue is resolved.

Thanks again for the help. It looks like grey dot coils have around 6 years of life before they start going out again.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I had that code. Unfortunately, it wasn't always followed up with another one which includes cylinder #. In some cases it did in some- it did not and I eventually replaced all of them over 12 years.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Turns out it was my ignition coil on #6 cylinder. With the numbers I had on the coil test I don't know if you can concretely determine which coils are bad, but you can get a general idea if they are REALLY bad.

My coil was going in and out with a slight misfire at times. As soon as I cycled the new ignition coil to the #6 cylinder the P1320 did not come back and has been off for 2 days now with no misfiring.

bennuss

Thanks this helped me. Turns out it was just one of the back coils and swapped it with an oem hanshin. Bought it from an auto chain and it was repackaged but it said made in japan and the coil said on it hanshin.

Nisaan_2001

Hi guys - I changed all my coils with Aftermarket coils and still have two codes 1320 and 1320 pending. There is no misfire with all 6 in there, I sense some roughness though. Removing all harness one by one does make engine go bad. I have also replaced all my spark plugs with NGK-G. I also tested connectivity between ECM points and harness, checked harness for power and ground all fine.

Since it is P1320 pending, to me it seems one of the cylinder. Is there anything else apart from Coil and spark plug that matter for cylinder?

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

From my experience and the research into the code on the board I'm guessing it is your coils. The aftermarket coils seem to be hit and miss, literally. You may have to put out the extra dough for OEM coils.

The only other thing to check is the condenser. However, I didn't see anyone on this board with a bad condenser related to a P1320 code.

redrock5432

Probably a coil. I had a case where there was 'roughness' but not solid misfires. Swapping out each coil with a known good one is probably the best way to do it.

background: I replaced solid misfire with an aftermarket part which turned out to be intermittent. Replaced Aftermarket part with one bought at Autozone and the Autozone one is working fine.

Pilm

I had P1320 and P0306 codes earlier this year, got a new coil and replaced cylinder 6, worked fine, codes gone. Decided only to replace the bad one. Anyway, 6 months later got P1320 again, but this time no cylinder code . So I decided to take the advice on here and get one front and one back coil and swap em around till the code went away. Got the parts today and tried cylinder 1/2 first, and after a rather short test drive that seems to have fixed it. I haven't yet gone back to try to figure out which one it was that solved the problem, 1 or 2, however I have a theory it's most likely cylinder 2. The reason I think that is because Nissan changed part numbers for the coil used in cylinders 2/4/6 from 22448-2Y006 to 22448-2Y007, but for cylinders 1/3/5 the part number never changed (always been 22448-2Y001). So my guess is there was a design issue with the original coil for cylinders 2/4/6, and they are *probably* the ones that cause most of the P1320 codes people see. This doesn't mean the right side coils never fail, I'm sure they do too, but probably not nearly as much as the left side coils. One thing I noticed reading through this thread and some others is the most frequently mentioned bad coils are either 2, 4 or 6, so while not scientific, it seems to support my theory. Anyway, what I'm thinking to do now for preventions sake is to go ahead and replace my cylinder 4 coil with the new part number even though it seems ok, that way I'll have all the latest part numbers, and maybe, just maybe, it'll be awhile before I have another P1320 code pop.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Personally...I would wait for the P1320 to pop up before replacing anymore coils. They aren't cheap and you'll get maximum life if you wait until the code pops up.

jaypyles

Hold on tight!!
I needed new coils and priced them at RockAuto last summer 2019; $52 and $57 front and rear. Bought them two weeks ago from RockAuto, $32 and $37 front and rear.
Of course, NGK to go with the NGK Lazer Iridium from RockAuto.
Do I understand? No.Ami Happy? Damm skippy.