Bleeding brake lines
#1
Bleeding brake lines
I was changing brakes today, and instead of letting the break fluid overflow the reservoar, i disconnected the screw to my brake cylinder, and drained some out this way. Now the pedal is extremely soft, and there is almost no braking pressure, unless i pump it 3-4 times. Do I need to bleed the break lines to get rid of air? I am not sure if this will fix the problem. Any suggestions on what can be done? How do you bleed the brake lines completely, if this is what I need to do to fix my problem? Thanks in advance guys, you are always helping out.
#2
If you open up a closed system, no matter what, all points need to be bled. So if you changed your front brakes, you need to bleed all four lines that go to the wheels. You start from the right rear, left rear, right front and last left front.
#4
Get a buddy to help you out with bleeding the brakes.
Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. And work your way to the closest.
One person will be pumping the brakes and the other must open the bleeder valve on the caliper to let out the brake fluid.
1) You will need to snugly place a clear tube over the bleeder valve. Get a clear bottle and put some brake fluid in it and immerse the other end of the tube into the brake fluid so no air will get in once you start the procedure.
2) Close the bleeder valve and tell your buddy to start pumping 3-4 times and on last pump instruct to hold the brake until you say to let go.
3) While the brake is is depressed, open the bleeder valve, notice the bubbles in the clear tube as the brake fluid is coming out. The brake pedal will go all the way down as you open the valve. After the you see no more bubbles and flow diminishes, close the valve. Tell the person to take their foot of the brake.
4) Repeat the procedure for the same caliper few times until you don't see any bubbles. Then move on to the next longest caliper from the master cylinder.
There is another way to do it alone, but you must get speed bleeders to do this , it eliminates to have to open and close the valve all the time. So one person can do the job really. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. And work your way to the closest.
One person will be pumping the brakes and the other must open the bleeder valve on the caliper to let out the brake fluid.
1) You will need to snugly place a clear tube over the bleeder valve. Get a clear bottle and put some brake fluid in it and immerse the other end of the tube into the brake fluid so no air will get in once you start the procedure.
2) Close the bleeder valve and tell your buddy to start pumping 3-4 times and on last pump instruct to hold the brake until you say to let go.
3) While the brake is is depressed, open the bleeder valve, notice the bubbles in the clear tube as the brake fluid is coming out. The brake pedal will go all the way down as you open the valve. After the you see no more bubbles and flow diminishes, close the valve. Tell the person to take their foot of the brake.
4) Repeat the procedure for the same caliper few times until you don't see any bubbles. Then move on to the next longest caliper from the master cylinder.
There is another way to do it alone, but you must get speed bleeders to do this , it eliminates to have to open and close the valve all the time. So one person can do the job really. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
#6
Originally Posted by chr0nos
thans for the detailed how-to, whtmax. i will prolly bleed them today.
I too was off the impression how would the fluid in the lines be exchanged, but actually brake fluid really mixes up in no time (made of esthers).
I used to bleed my brakes, but have stopped as I see noticeable difference in braking by just replacing the contents in the master.
It is a myth that one has to drain the lines to get it clean. Actually, contamination is going to happen anyway, why go thro the hassle to bleed and introduce air in the braking system..
My 2 cents...
#8
i had to do it, because there was air in the brake lines. after bleeding 2 out of 4, the brake pressure (pedal feel/travel) is back to normal. thanx for all the replies and help.
i spoke with a good friend of mine, who is an owner of meineke car repair shop, and this is what he recommended for changing brakes.
use a rubber clamp to clap the brake line right behind the caliper. loosen the bleeder valve, then squeese the piston. the reason for this is because there is dirt that accumulates behind the piston, and when you squeeze it, all this dirt goes straight into your brake lines, and can damage the ABS sensor. thats a very costly repair. after your compress the piston, you can re-connect the bleeder valve, and take the clamp off. this way there is no air in the brake lines, and no dirt either. i think i'v seen the rubber clamps at autozone for about $1 a peice. thats not a bad idea to have them for brake jobs.
i spoke with a good friend of mine, who is an owner of meineke car repair shop, and this is what he recommended for changing brakes.
use a rubber clamp to clap the brake line right behind the caliper. loosen the bleeder valve, then squeese the piston. the reason for this is because there is dirt that accumulates behind the piston, and when you squeeze it, all this dirt goes straight into your brake lines, and can damage the ABS sensor. thats a very costly repair. after your compress the piston, you can re-connect the bleeder valve, and take the clamp off. this way there is no air in the brake lines, and no dirt either. i think i'v seen the rubber clamps at autozone for about $1 a peice. thats not a bad idea to have them for brake jobs.
#9
Originally Posted by Love_00_Max
Bleeding of brakes is unnecessary, if the fluid in the master is replaced, that should surfice.
I too was off the impression how would the fluid in the lines be exchanged, but actually brake fluid really mixes up in no time (made of esthers).
I used to bleed my brakes, but have stopped as I see noticeable difference in braking by just replacing the contents in the master.
It is a myth that one has to drain the lines to get it clean. Actually, contamination is going to happen anyway, why go thro the hassle to bleed and introduce air in the braking system..
My 2 cents...
I too was off the impression how would the fluid in the lines be exchanged, but actually brake fluid really mixes up in no time (made of esthers).
I used to bleed my brakes, but have stopped as I see noticeable difference in braking by just replacing the contents in the master.
It is a myth that one has to drain the lines to get it clean. Actually, contamination is going to happen anyway, why go thro the hassle to bleed and introduce air in the braking system..
My 2 cents...
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