can someone please clarify...

i am getting the codes mentioned here. i've replaced the gas cap with a new nissan cap. the light is still on. am i supposed to do something to clear the code, or will the light go off automatically if the gas cap fixed it? i.e., since the light is still on after replacing the cap, does that mean it's telling me i haven't fixed the problem?

 

Probably haven't fixed it. If it is in fact the cap, it should clear itself. I even did a test by starting the car with no gas cap and got a CEL. Shut it off, put the cap on and the CEL went off witin 2 minutes. Since you get 1448, you most-likely need the valve (and maybe canister).

 

okay. thanks for your response. that's what i suspected, but wanted to check before i went to the next step. wasn't sure if it clearer itself and if so, how long it would take or if it was immediate.

but, there is nothing i need to do to clear the code, correct? once properly fixed the light should go off on it's own?

 

Be patient.

Putting on a new gas cap won't solve the problem in a second. It took mine a few days and several startup sequences for the cell to go off.

It didn't clear in a few minutes. And reading other posts that was the same for most others.

Good luck.

 

okay. i put the new cap on saturday, but have only started and driven the car 4 times (2 roundtrips). i'll give it a few more days - it will probably be this weekend before i would get a chance to tackle the evap anyway.

thanks for the advice and clarification.

 

I should've mentioned that my fuel filler neck is also rusted. That might explain why it shut off pretty quickly for me.

 

This is my first time posting. My 1998 Maxima has same problems with codes and slow cranking, have to push down on gas peddle to start etc. I am going to check Purge Valve and canister soon. The tip about not to overfill gas tank made me also wonder if you can damage anything if car is running while you fill up. I hope this is the appropriate place to ask this question. Thanks

 

This forum is intended for the 2000-2003 year Maxima. Your model year has its own sub-forum located here http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...a-1995-1999-6/

 

like blowing up the gas station? you could also smoke while filling up

 

From alldata: Possible Cause

• EVAP canister vent control valve
• EVAP control system pressure sensor and circuit
• Blocked rubber tube to EVAP canister vent control valve
• Water separator
• EVAP canister is saturated with water.
• Vacuum cut valve Hope this helps someone

 

Hey, guys, I'm new...but I've been working on my Max's for about 6 years now. My first one was a '99 bought in '02 and now I have an '02 I bought in '06. Loved my old one and really love my new one. Ok....so I got the trouble codes on my '02 using an OBD II you can buy at WallyWorld for around $100 if want something cheap and quick and you plan on doing your own work.....these are the codes it gave me..

1) P0455 - Evap leak (major) - red light on the OBD II meaning confirmed
2) P1448 - Vacuum hose leak - red light on the OBD II meaning confirmed
3) P1448 - Vacuum hose leak - yellow lights on the OBD II meaning unconfirmed but a problem exists....

Here's my fix....I saw some suggestions about replacing the gas cap first then the canister and valve...I thought about replacing the cap first when I saw these codes while researching the site for fixes. Then I stopped and thought it all through. When I went to the gas station to fill up, the cap always released pressure before when I took it off...so why now would it suddenly just go bad and throw out all these codes? Thinking back, I've left the gas cap off once and it only threw the P0455 major leak code (duh)....well, upon checking the codes manual and doing a few short tests...all signs pointed to the purge control valve (the punger piece attached to the evap canister). I didn't have any leaks in the hoses, no cracks in the evap canister & everything else was in working order. I think the dealer wanted around $100 or so for the part, but I ended up getting it at the junk yard off another '02 for $25. Note: the junk yard will not sell you the evap canister bc it's an emissions part & something about hazardous materials. Anyway, just getting the plunger piece fixed the problem. It only took about 5 minutes to get it off the junk yard car and about 20 to get back on mine. Plugging it back into the evap canister was a PITA. And getting the bolts out of the old valve and canister....TERRIBLE!!! Be careful not break the bolt off in the canister like I did ~ and yes, I still have the canister with the broken bolt on my car with one side of the valve bolted firmly in place. It works so I'm leaving it.

Just a gold mine side note all Max owners should have ~ my boyfriend was ever so nice as to find the entire codes manual (yes all 1500 or so pages) for the '02-03 Maxs and he even printed & bound it up for me so I could keep mine forever....so if you can't find it online for free & you have a code you want the fixes for, let me know and I'll send it. Plus most likely I've already fixed it as my Max seems to be "that Max" with all the problems!!

 

FYI, for anyone else who experiences this issue, these are the part numbers the dealership told me I needed (EDIT: this is for my 2003 Maxima based on my VIN—verify with your dealer for your specific part numbers):

VENT VALVE 14935-5M00B
CANISTER ASSY 14950-4L60C

The dealer quoted me $122.86 and $254.48 for the two parts, respectively, while CourtesyNissan.com wants $88.66 and $182.38 for them. Still waiting to hear back from South Point Nissan.

According to this thread it may not be necessary to replace the canister assembly, so keep that in mind when planning your repair.

 

Call DaveB at 1-888-254-6060, you'll probably get a slight discount when you mention being a member of the maxima forums.

 

Hold on guys! Don't panic its not a big issue. i had the same issue, tried changing gas cap but no luck and finally i took the bullet and changed canister valve and guess what it fixed the problem. no codes no check engine light. What you have to do is get that old valve off but be very carefull those bolts are very rusted so most likely you are going to break them. Nothing to worry even if you break 'em, what you have to do is just use two screws on that valve and into the canister and for more peace of mind apply silicon around the valve.
One more thing i ordered mine from rockautoparts.com for about $50.00.
Good Luck.

 

Same 2 codes I had were also fixed with an evap canister and purge solenoid.
I pulled mine from a 20AE and CEL has been off for months since the replacement ($25)

 

Thanks for the info guys! I've been throwing these codes for a while now, actually shortly after I was rear-ended. The accident cracked my exhaust system so I just went with a performance exhaust. Anyway, my canister is probably cracked assuming the force was great enough to damage the exhaust.

At least now I know where to start and where to get the parts for cheap! Much appreciated.

02 Max SE 6-speed

 

reading this thread i now realize that the problem i am having is because of a REALLY stupid move on my part....

Let me preface this by saying I NEVER fill past the first "click" at the pump.

I am getting these codes. In wisconsin (from illinois, but travel there for work often), they have a promotion @ BP stations. 8 gallons = 1 stamp towards a free brewers ticket. 16 gallons = 2 stamps. The pump turned off @ 15.5 gallons.... I had to get that second stamp. Now it will cost me 300 bucks! 7 stamps = One $15 dollar ticket

 

You said you NEVER fill past the first "click" at the pump but then contradict yourself right in the next sentence ???

- Vikas

 

I know, I know.... just figures the first time I do it (and for petty reasons at that)!

All well, live and learn

 

does anyone have how-to with pics or just the pic of what needs to be removed...just ordered my purge valve from daveb....want to make sure i don't break the cannister...thanks

 

Best place to look, nicoclub.com/FSM

 

I have to put in a plug for AutoZone here... not that I love that place, but everywhere I looked the canister alone for an '02-'03 is $200. AZ had it for $127, ordered it online, with 2 year warranty. Hell, even junkyards selling used ones wanted $125.

Also, I found that Dorman's literature (aftermarket) for the purge valve is wrong, they make the valve but the 2003 and 2002 in Dorman's literature are different. The 2002 Dorman part is the correct one for both years.

-Coochmon

 

That is why I try to order Nissan parts. Never have any weird problems you sometimes get from Autozone or other part store brands.

http://forums.maxima.org/8272195-post22.html

 

Inside the canister I see the spring and plastic plate at the end of it.. That is suppose to move right?

 

mispost...

 

Inside the canister I see the spring and plastic plate at the end of it.. That is suppose to move right?

 

Hey going use this thread, I need help with p1448. I was testing vent solenoid and i could feel clicks. Does it mean its work?. Other thing I have p0440 too but FSM said do p1448 first. Thanks!

Here the video of testing

 

Check the air flow (blow into it) before and after it clicks. It should stop completely in one case. I can't remember if it's when the current is applied or not. Any leakage indicates a problem. I checked the same thing, can't remember the code it was throwing (p0445? p0455?) and it ended up being my filler tube was rusted at the mouth and there was a vaccum leak between the tube mouth and the gas cap.

 

If i blow air in the vent solenoid, air should go out or other hole? Or stay inside? If i blow and the air come back from same hole, its not working right? I checked fuller tube and gas cap they are good. And that p0445 or p0455, i dont have them. I have p1448 and p0440.

 

If you blow into the hole that is normally the vent to the outside environment it should come out the hole that goes into the charcoal canister (should have a little rubber o-ring around it to seal it to the charcoal canister). I still have the code stored, I'll run it on the way home and let you know what it is. If you're blowing in and air is coming out the same hole I'm not sure how the physics of that work but make sure you seal your lips to it don't just blow air from a few inches away (wash it off first if you must). The only way it should work is air should come in one side and go out the other, the direction doesn't necessarily matter.

 

I just test it with blow air and it does go out from other side. The plunger inside does move up and down when i applied current. So look like the vent solenoid is good. I don't know what else to check. EVAP canister has no crack, hoses are good and connected, fuller tube is good no rust. I followed FSM and find no answer. Any suggestions to check?

What about this hose? Is it supposed to be connected to somewhere or its normal to vent out?

 

I'm sure you've been anxiously waiting for a reply to this question for the past year and a half!!
The water separator is supposed to be attached to the hose at that point. It clips into that rectangular hole in that rusty metal tab, and the hose plugs into it at the top. In fact that might be the broken off port that the hose is still attached to.
I don't know what it does. Maybe protects the solenoid somehow? But the system should function normally without it.