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2000 Manual Max keeps stalling, any ideas???

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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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2000 Manual Max keeps stalling, any ideas???

I have a 2000 manual max, and at first I thought I was just losing my touch for driving stick, but than I payed close attention to what I was doing and had other people drive it and it's stalling in the middle of driving, I can be going like 60-80 on the freeway and all of the sudden the car turns off, I have to quickly restart it. Anyway Mossy nissan gave me some lame diagnostic saying it was the negative battery cable: they were going to charge me 250 dollars to replace it so I had a friend do that for me. Didn't do any good. But now it seems to be undriveable with how much it is stalling. Anyway I have no desire to take it back to mossy, they don't ever seem to fix the problem and charge way too much. So if you have any suggestions or ideas of why it would do this please give them... I am going to try replacing the battery but I really don't think that is the problem so anything else would be appreciated =)
thank in advanced
Christina
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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trying cleaning your TB
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:33 PM
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& a tb would be ?
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:11 PM
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throttle body
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:22 PM
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thanks for the suggestion but that isn't it...
Old Jan 22, 2006 | 11:49 PM
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i hasd the same problem when i first bought mine. After my first general tune up - never happened again. Cleaned my "TB", changed plugs and air filter, changed PCV valve. Two months ago, it happened again about twice on the highway. Each time I got to pull over i saw my intake (WAI) fall off my TB. Each time I tightened it and was on my way till I replaced the bracket. This shouldnt be that serious.
Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:05 AM
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Well it was due for its 60,000 mile tune-up awhile ago so maybe,but it has been doing this since I bought it at 50,000 miles, it just got extremely bad, once I get this solved I am selling this and getting a lexus IS300, the car has been nothing but problems if any one else has any other suggestions please let me know, otherwise thanks and I guess I will just take it to someone besides the dealer... .=)
Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:21 AM
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HOw about MAF or IACV? DOes it stall when in gear under load? or idling?
Old Jan 23, 2006 | 08:42 AM
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Just replace the MAF. When I was was test driving my car prior to buying it I noticed I was stalling even when I fully pressed the clutch down. The motor would not take a load if i did not give it gas, in other words, I could not make the car roll just by letting go of the clutch and not giving gas.

After MAF replacement, the car felt like new again, you could practicallly dump the clutch without gas and it would only die 1/4 of the time.

...Clean your TB, That'll fix it
Old Jan 23, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by nicks79
HOw about MAF or IACV? DOes it stall when in gear under load? or idling?
it stalls when in gear or when I am changing gears...I don't know much about cars so would the check engine light come on if it is the MAF, if so it's not on?? Keep suggestions coming though, that way when I take it to someone, I have some idea of what could be wrong, or if it is a cheap thing to try I can just have my friends help me out...
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:27 AM
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Order a new MAF from Dave B. a bad MAF will not throw a code until it is screaming to be replaced, and as stated before clean your TB and give it a seafoam application.
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ristina
it stalls when in gear or when I am changing gears...I don't know much about cars so would the check engine light come on if it is the MAF, if so it's not on?? Keep suggestions coming though, that way when I take it to someone, I have some idea of what could be wrong, or if it is a cheap thing to try I can just have my friends help me out...
I'm having the same problem with mine....cleaned the TB, replaced the IACV (per my mechanic's diagnosis), and performed the idle air volume procedure once, had my mechanic do it w/ the consult twice and i'm still stalling. someone had a link on how to test the MAF, other than just trying to drive with it disconnected...if you can find it, then try that...that's my next move. If you're gonna start replacing stuff all *****-nilly, go w/ the cheapest stuff first (MAF i'm guessing) and then move on.
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....30#post1909170
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Ladies and Gents.....http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=stalling

It is YOUR... M A F
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by max929
Ladies and Gents.....http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=stalling

It is YOUR... M A F

Snap... I will check that out =) still selling this stupid car though has more problems than my friends 96 240 so thanks for the help =)
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ristina
Snap... I will check that out =) still selling this stupid car though has more problems than my friends 96 240 so thanks for the help =)
With all things considered, you are going to be hard pressed to find a car that doesn't have issues. Maxima's can be a PITA but none of it's problems are really serious or expensive (5.5 oil lose excluded). Replace the MAF and then see how you feel about selling the Max. REMEMBER, when you replace it, unplug your battery for about 24 hours so the ECU can reset. Contact Dave B for a MAF sensor at the best price....(888) 254-6060 be sure to menthion to him that your are from the org.
Old Jan 25, 2006 | 09:31 PM
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ok thanks... all the problems I have had, have been expensive, and the extended warranty I bought never seems to cover anything, plus I am so tired of nissan, not that all car dealers aren't going to be gerks, but I can't stand mossy nissan thanks again
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