Intake valve timing control bank 2........
#1
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Intake valve timing control bank 2........
What is this?
What does it do?
Is this the same or close to a "Cam Timing Code"?
What is this code?
Anyone have the link to this part in the FSM?
My search sucks at teh work, is why i'm posting this question. Slow server I guess...
What does it do?
Is this the same or close to a "Cam Timing Code"?
What is this code?
Anyone have the link to this part in the FSM?
My search sucks at teh work, is why i'm posting this question. Slow server I guess...
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#2
(Some of my own paraphrasing and some copied and pasted from the FSM)
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor (data provded: engine speed), along with the engine coolant temp sensor (engine coolant temp) and speed sensor (vehicle speed) send inputs to the ECM for intake valve timing control, which controls the IVT control solenoid valve.
This mechanism hydraulically controls cam phases continuously with the fixed operating angle of the intake valve.
The ECM receives signals such as crankshaft position, camshaft position, engine speed, and engine coolant temperature. Then, the ECM sends ON/OFF pulse duty signals to the camshaft timing control valve depending on driving status. This makes it possible to control the shut/open timing of the intake valve to increase engine torque in low/mid speed range and output in high-speed range.
DTC detecting condition: There is a gap between angle of target and
phase-control angle degree.
Possible causes:
-Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid
valve circuit is open or shorted.)
-Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
-Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
-Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
-Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
Fail safe mode: The signal is not energized to the solenoid valve and the valve control does not function.
Let me know if ya need more help, Paramy.
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor (data provded: engine speed), along with the engine coolant temp sensor (engine coolant temp) and speed sensor (vehicle speed) send inputs to the ECM for intake valve timing control, which controls the IVT control solenoid valve.
This mechanism hydraulically controls cam phases continuously with the fixed operating angle of the intake valve.
The ECM receives signals such as crankshaft position, camshaft position, engine speed, and engine coolant temperature. Then, the ECM sends ON/OFF pulse duty signals to the camshaft timing control valve depending on driving status. This makes it possible to control the shut/open timing of the intake valve to increase engine torque in low/mid speed range and output in high-speed range.
DTC detecting condition: There is a gap between angle of target and
phase-control angle degree.
Possible causes:
-Harness or connectors (Intake valve timing control solenoid
valve circuit is open or shorted.)
-Intake valve timing control solenoid valve
-Crankshaft position sensor (POS)
-Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
-Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
Fail safe mode: The signal is not energized to the solenoid valve and the valve control does not function.
Let me know if ya need more help, Paramy.
#5
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Thanks fellas! Yes that's my new code that I'm throwing. Last week took my car in cause there was rattle from the engine compartment when I let off the throttle. I thought it was my tensioner for the timing chain. They found it to be my cat. converter. The screen on either side of the converter deterioated and was blowing fragments around in the exhaust side of the manifold. They replaced the cat. and o2 sensor for it, and cleaned everything out.
Picked up the car after 3 days of waiting, and drove about 5 miles. Threw another code for bank 1 o2 sensor. Turn around and dropped the car off and waited another day. Picked it up Thursday night, and on Saturday I threw another code. Dealership just called me and said it was the Intake valve timing control bank 2. Car has been there since this morning and the part will take 2-3 days to get there. They said it was a 500-600 dollar job. $50 deductible ftw!
Last year I threw a cam timing code, but it went away so I never fixed it. I'm hoping that this issue is related so it all gets fixed at one time. My dyno last year showed a power loss of roughly 20hp in stock form (196hp). Just catback and ported box. I have 900 miles left on my extended, and trying to get everything to break and get fixed all before it runs out.
From your post Joel, it looks like this might be my issue all along. I'm wondering if spraying had anything to do with it.
But we won't mention that part.
Picked up the car after 3 days of waiting, and drove about 5 miles. Threw another code for bank 1 o2 sensor. Turn around and dropped the car off and waited another day. Picked it up Thursday night, and on Saturday I threw another code. Dealership just called me and said it was the Intake valve timing control bank 2. Car has been there since this morning and the part will take 2-3 days to get there. They said it was a 500-600 dollar job. $50 deductible ftw!
Last year I threw a cam timing code, but it went away so I never fixed it. I'm hoping that this issue is related so it all gets fixed at one time. My dyno last year showed a power loss of roughly 20hp in stock form (196hp). Just catback and ported box. I have 900 miles left on my extended, and trying to get everything to break and get fixed all before it runs out.
From your post Joel, it looks like this might be my issue all along. I'm wondering if spraying had anything to do with it.
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#6
I have those same codes, and my warranty just finished. So it looks like a 500-600 dollar repair now. This problem has really screwed with my fuel efficiency.
Do you guys recommend I go to the dealer or is this something a mechanic could fix?
Do you guys recommend I go to the dealer or is this something a mechanic could fix?
#7
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Originally Posted by NUmaxima
I have those same codes, and my warranty just finished. So it looks like a 500-600 dollar repair now. This problem has really screwed with my fuel efficiency.
Do you guys recommend I go to the dealer or is this something a mechanic could fix?
Do you guys recommend I go to the dealer or is this something a mechanic could fix?
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