Idle Isssues.....
03-09-2006, 05:18 PM
#1
Idle Isssues.....
Ok I have a 2000 se 5spd,I have an issue with Idle it will idle fine and the af is off though Idles around 15.7 then after the car warms up it lean out of range of the guage and the idle will drop.I have no idea, I have looked for vaccum leaks with no luck.I have checked the pcv, and tried to reset my iacv.Anyone ever had this problem or know of this and maybe a fix?
03-10-2006, 09:12 AM
#2
How did you find your A/F @ 15.7?
scantool, vacuum gauge, etc.
Does it loob or just lean out?
Any acceleration, cruise, idle problems, etc?
Have you checked your fuel line pressure yet?
F.Y.I. It's normal for a car to run richer during warm-up to get it to operating temp. 15.7 sounds high at cold engine start up, so I would throw 02 problem out the window since it's high at both open and closed loop.
More info is needed and possibly a fuel pressure test.
scantool, vacuum gauge, etc.
Does it loob or just lean out?
Any acceleration, cruise, idle problems, etc?
Have you checked your fuel line pressure yet?
F.Y.I. It's normal for a car to run richer during warm-up to get it to operating temp. 15.7 sounds high at cold engine start up, so I would throw 02 problem out the window since it's high at both open and closed loop.
More info is needed and possibly a fuel pressure test.
03-10-2006, 10:50 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 24
Idle + Issues
I have the same thing going on with a 2k se 5sp.
Ran like crazy till I had a clutch slave replaced. Came back with a hesitation
at 3500 rpm in any gear and accel was pittiful. CEL light came on indicating coil, replaced 3 of those still hve the problem. Seems cel was unrelated.
My idle would drop to 0 after you let off the pedal almost stalling each stop. Stalled every now and again.
Tech re learned the idle this week and its better, but looks like the acceleration problem has just moved up the scale to 4500 now, but it does hold right at 750 rpm warm idle.
Techs say it seems fine. Better, but still not as good as it was or should be. Its only got 92k on it. Low end is sluggish and hi end acceleration is inconsistent. My cruise control is recently jerky also, where it used to be remarkably smooth.
I suspect an O2 issue with mine unless someone can direct me elsewhere with this one.
Is there O2 install instructions on here for a 2k SE?
Ran like crazy till I had a clutch slave replaced. Came back with a hesitation
at 3500 rpm in any gear and accel was pittiful. CEL light came on indicating coil, replaced 3 of those still hve the problem. Seems cel was unrelated.
My idle would drop to 0 after you let off the pedal almost stalling each stop. Stalled every now and again.
Tech re learned the idle this week and its better, but looks like the acceleration problem has just moved up the scale to 4500 now, but it does hold right at 750 rpm warm idle.
Techs say it seems fine. Better, but still not as good as it was or should be. Its only got 92k on it. Low end is sluggish and hi end acceleration is inconsistent. My cruise control is recently jerky also, where it used to be remarkably smooth.
I suspect an O2 issue with mine unless someone can direct me elsewhere with this one.
Is there O2 install instructions on here for a 2k SE?
03-12-2006, 11:34 AM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 24
An Intake leak is a good possibiliy.
This problem began when an independent shop replaced a leaking clutch
slave. At the same time, replaced my battery and a (stock) Bosch air filter element and oil change.
I know all that intake plastic needed to come off to get to the slave
for replacement and immediatelly suspected something did not get back on right.
The latest fix from a local Dealer, referred to as "Re learning" the idle, seems to have helped lots, but not completely.
Pursuing the intake leak, where should I look for that sort of problem?
Also, is "Re learning" the idle do the same as reprogramming the module?
This problem began when an independent shop replaced a leaking clutch
slave. At the same time, replaced my battery and a (stock) Bosch air filter element and oil change.
I know all that intake plastic needed to come off to get to the slave
for replacement and immediatelly suspected something did not get back on right.
The latest fix from a local Dealer, referred to as "Re learning" the idle, seems to have helped lots, but not completely.
Pursuing the intake leak, where should I look for that sort of problem?
Also, is "Re learning" the idle do the same as reprogramming the module?
03-12-2006, 11:54 AM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 24
An Intake leak is a good possibiliy.
This problem began when an independent shop replaced a leaking clutch
slave. At the same time, replaced my battery and a (stock) Bosch air filter element and oil change.
I know all that intake plastic needed to come off to get to the slave
for replacement and immediatelly suspected something did not get back on right.
The latest fix from a local Dealer, referred to as "Re learning" the idle, seems to have helped lots, but not completely.
Pursuing the intake leak, where should I look for that sort of problem?
Also, is "Re learning" the idle do the same as reprogramming the module?
This problem began when an independent shop replaced a leaking clutch
slave. At the same time, replaced my battery and a (stock) Bosch air filter element and oil change.
I know all that intake plastic needed to come off to get to the slave
for replacement and immediatelly suspected something did not get back on right.
The latest fix from a local Dealer, referred to as "Re learning" the idle, seems to have helped lots, but not completely.
Pursuing the intake leak, where should I look for that sort of problem?
Also, is "Re learning" the idle do the same as reprogramming the module?
I suppose maybe your wideband has possibly turned your LTFT way down, but that's a far stretch. Like max said have you checked your maf yet?
03-13-2006, 02:35 PM
#12
I had the same problems...
Here is what I got... wasn't the MAF... i just replaced it 1000 miles before that diagnose happened... replaced spark plugs... still no luck... reset the IACV... better but still drops the RPM for the 1st start and I have to hold the gas for a few seconds just to start the car... finally... looked for vacuum leaks... no indication... brought it to a shop... they cleaned the vacuum (not sure where it is exactly) and replaced the vacuum lines... and car is now running a lot better... cost me only $45 and got my engine checked out and everything... try replacing the lines even though there are no indication.. it might work!
Here is what I got... wasn't the MAF... i just replaced it 1000 miles before that diagnose happened... replaced spark plugs... still no luck... reset the IACV... better but still drops the RPM for the 1st start and I have to hold the gas for a few seconds just to start the car... finally... looked for vacuum leaks... no indication... brought it to a shop... they cleaned the vacuum (not sure where it is exactly) and replaced the vacuum lines... and car is now running a lot better... cost me only $45 and got my engine checked out and everything... try replacing the lines even though there are no indication.. it might work!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TKHanson
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
11-24-2018 01:39 AM
Unclejunebug
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
10
04-02-2016 05:42 AM