Rubbing on one side, but not the other
#1
Rubbing on one side, but not the other
So Im having a little rubbing on my rear passenger wheel. The tire is just hitting the edge of the fender. Strangely enough, Im not getting any rubbing from my rear drivers side wheel.
I have an H&R Drop with Illuminas and G35 c's with 245/40/18's
Besides a blown strut (which I doubt because there is no suspension bounce when pushing on the rear), What could be causing one side to rub and the other not?
I have an H&R Drop with Illuminas and G35 c's with 245/40/18's
Besides a blown strut (which I doubt because there is no suspension bounce when pushing on the rear), What could be causing one side to rub and the other not?
#2
That's a strange issue.
Talyan5 who has a A33B with 19" G35 rims also has a rubbing issue on one side only.
It was on the same side as yours i believe. I think it has to do with the offset of the wheel compared to our OEM ones. But that doesn't explain why it would rub on one side only.
Talyan5 who has a A33B with 19" G35 rims also has a rubbing issue on one side only.
It was on the same side as yours i believe. I think it has to do with the offset of the wheel compared to our OEM ones. But that doesn't explain why it would rub on one side only.
#4
I was thinking it may have something to do with the way the rear axle is connected to the frame. The connection is offset to 1 side, and considering the fact that I have a sway bar on there... that may cause uneven travel on either side of the suspension... hmmm
#6
i think this is a common problem....my car only rubs on the rear passenger side if I am slammed too low...rear driver side never heard a thing...and if it did, it rarely made the noise
iirc, maximadave also had this issue...its pretty common if u ask me
richard, try putting your car on a flat surface and measuring from floor to middle of the fender...then get back to us with measurements
iirc, maximadave also had this issue...its pretty common if u ask me
richard, try putting your car on a flat surface and measuring from floor to middle of the fender...then get back to us with measurements
#9
Fender Roller
I just got my latest Eastwood Catalog and they had this really cool fender roller...for those of us Org'ers that may do this a lot. Check it out
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
#10
Originally Posted by qballjr13
I just got my latest Eastwood Catalog and they had this really cool fender roller...for those of us Org'ers that may do this a lot. Check it out
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT
#11
Originally Posted by rbrown81
I might give that a try... or take a baseball bat to my fender.
#13
If you look in the rear passenger side wheel well you'll kinda see a tab where the bumper and fender meet back in there. It kind of juts out into the wheel well, and with the stock wheels/tires sunk back in the wheel well it never rubs, but when you push things wider it will on large bumps/dips/etc.
You can take an angle grinder and grind away most of that tab (leaving the nut and bolt) and then use rubberized undercoating to recoat it. That should help alleviate the rubbing.
Aside from the fact that on these cars the right side (on the rear) seems to stick out a bit more it also seems that that aforementioned tab protrudes further into the wheel well than on the driver's side.
You can take an angle grinder and grind away most of that tab (leaving the nut and bolt) and then use rubberized undercoating to recoat it. That should help alleviate the rubbing.
Aside from the fact that on these cars the right side (on the rear) seems to stick out a bit more it also seems that that aforementioned tab protrudes further into the wheel well than on the driver's side.
#14
Originally Posted by rbrown81
I might give that a try... or take a baseball bat to my fender.
I used the bat, and while it did remove some of the rubbing, I had to still use a fender roll. If you do use a bat, heat up the fender really well with a blow dryer and take it slow.
#15
Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
If you look in the rear passenger side wheel well you'll kinda see a tab where the bumper and fender meet back in there. It kind of juts out into the wheel well, and with the stock wheels/tires sunk back in the wheel well it never rubs, but when you push things wider it will on large bumps/dips/etc.
You can take an angle grinder and grind away most of that tab (leaving the nut and bolt) and then use rubberized undercoating to recoat it. That should help alleviate the rubbing.
Aside from the fact that on these cars the right side (on the rear) seems to stick out a bit more it also seems that that aforementioned tab protrudes further into the wheel well than on the driver's side.
You can take an angle grinder and grind away most of that tab (leaving the nut and bolt) and then use rubberized undercoating to recoat it. That should help alleviate the rubbing.
Aside from the fact that on these cars the right side (on the rear) seems to stick out a bit more it also seems that that aforementioned tab protrudes further into the wheel well than on the driver's side.
#16
IN IRAQ MAXIMA.ORG-ING :)
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Originally Posted by khynex
i know 2 other cars plus mines that have that....shave the fender...imo
#18
You have to re-center the rear beam. Basically due to the linkage on the rear beam, our solid axle pivots upwards and to the right side under compression.
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
#19
That is strange because I have the G35C rims with 245/40/18 tires and S-tech springs. I do not notice any rubbing like I did when I first purchased the rims with 245/45/18 tires.
#20
Originally Posted by Larrio
You have to re-center the rear beam. Basically due to the linkage on the rear beam, our solid axle pivots upwards and to the right side under compression.
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
EDIT: I don't remember what it looks like under there...do you have any pics of the bushings you're talking about? Will it be pretty noticeable if they're sideways (for those of us unsure of what we're looking for)?
#21
Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
Interesting. I'll have to take a look at that when I re-do my suspension in about a week.
EDIT: I don't remember what it looks like under there...do you have any pics of the bushings you're talking about? Will it be pretty noticeable if they're sideways (for those of us unsure of what we're looking for)?
EDIT: I don't remember what it looks like under there...do you have any pics of the bushings you're talking about? Will it be pretty noticeable if they're sideways (for those of us unsure of what we're looking for)?
The first bushing is the little cylinder welded onto the "yoke" of the left side of the car. In the top of this pic (taken from www.vqpower.com) you can see the bushing is slightly off to the side already at normal droop
Now if imagine it compressed when the car is lowered. I can't find any pics of the second bushing since it is very near the gas tank area facing the opposite direction
#22
Originally Posted by Larrio
You will be severely depressed when you see how much of an angle the bushing is at. A good way to do this is that when the car is on jack stands, jack up the beam until its at your usual ride height
The first bushing is the little cylinder welded onto the "yoke" of the left side of the car. In the top of this pic (taken from www.vqpower.com) you can see the bushing is slightly off to the side already at normal droop
[img]http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/5grsb/Finished.jpg[img]
Now if imagine it compressed when the car is lowered. I can't find any pics of the second bushing since it is very near the gas tank area facing the opposite direction
The first bushing is the little cylinder welded onto the "yoke" of the left side of the car. In the top of this pic (taken from www.vqpower.com) you can see the bushing is slightly off to the side already at normal droop
[img]http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/5grsb/Finished.jpg[img]
Now if imagine it compressed when the car is lowered. I can't find any pics of the second bushing since it is very near the gas tank area facing the opposite direction
#23
i wanted to bump this old thread back up....
Larrio - this looks like an interesting DIY i might tackle later on...quick question...does it require adjustment if I change my ride height? Right now I'm pretty conservative drop....I might wanna slam it later on...will I have to do this procedure again?
Larrio - this looks like an interesting DIY i might tackle later on...quick question...does it require adjustment if I change my ride height? Right now I'm pretty conservative drop....I might wanna slam it later on...will I have to do this procedure again?
#24
Originally Posted by steven88
i wanted to bump this old thread back up....
Larrio - this looks like an interesting DIY i might tackle later on...quick question...does it require adjustment if I change my ride height? Right now I'm pretty conservative drop....I might wanna slam it later on...will I have to do this procedure again?
Larrio - this looks like an interesting DIY i might tackle later on...quick question...does it require adjustment if I change my ride height? Right now I'm pretty conservative drop....I might wanna slam it later on...will I have to do this procedure again?
#26
FYI - Larrio, I checked it out this weekend when I did my suspension and indeed the bushings had shifted a bit.
I would have adjusted it but unfortunately this time I did my suspension I couldn't get the lower strut mounting bolts free (long story).
I'll tackle it at a later date though when I'm better prepared.
I would have adjusted it but unfortunately this time I did my suspension I couldn't get the lower strut mounting bolts free (long story).
I'll tackle it at a later date though when I'm better prepared.
#27
The optimal solution is to take off the lower strut bolts, but you can still do it somewhat effectively with the struts still attached.
Its just that they make the beam compression part a bit harder.
Its just that they make the beam compression part a bit harder.
#29
I wanted to bring up this thread again...planning to tackle the project maybe tomorrow...so I took some pictures while I was under there...are these the two bushings? I know the one on the left is the corrrect one as it matches the picture....but what about the one on the right? That gold nut in the middle has nothing to do with it right?
also i notice this bolt as well...this has nothing to do with it either right?
#32
compress your suspension to your current ride height and take a look at the bushing.
The last pic should be the second bushing. Take a closer look when you are down there to see if it goes through a rubber bushing
The last pic should be the second bushing. Take a closer look when you are down there to see if it goes through a rubber bushing
#33
Originally Posted by rbrown81
So Im having a little rubbing on my rear passenger wheel. The tire is just hitting the edge of the fender. Strangely enough, Im not getting any rubbing from my rear drivers side wheel.
I have an H&R Drop with Illuminas and G35 c's with 245/40/18's
Besides a blown strut (which I doubt because there is no suspension bounce when pushing on the rear), What could be causing one side to rub and the other not?
I have an H&R Drop with Illuminas and G35 c's with 245/40/18's
Besides a blown strut (which I doubt because there is no suspension bounce when pushing on the rear), What could be causing one side to rub and the other not?
It's a Nissan, what do you expect. Actually it's the same way on my car. Build quality I guess. My right wheel sits more flush with the body than the left wheel and the right rubs a tiny bit when the left doesn't also.
#34
Same over here. I just finished shaving down to where the bolt sits. Right where the bumper meets the quarter panel. I had my girl sit in the back to add more wheight to see if it was still rubbin. It still does, just a bit though. Not as bad as before.
#40
i have that problem yesterday when i installed the 20" rims.
i noticed the passenger side was way too close to the fender
and the otherside was tucked in.
here's the driver side which is fine
but to any event, i went to a local tire shop and they rolled the fender and bumper alil bit. now there's less rubbing unless a serious dip in the road appears.
i noticed the passenger side was way too close to the fender
and the otherside was tucked in.
here's the driver side which is fine
but to any event, i went to a local tire shop and they rolled the fender and bumper alil bit. now there's less rubbing unless a serious dip in the road appears.