I have changed the brakes 4 times. She has 134K. Last year I took someone's advice and put on Brembo x-drilled rotors and ray besteos QS pads. 10K later they are warped. I have read numerous posts about how well brembo's have worked. Some orgers have posted that they have had them for more than 20k.

What am I doing wrong here? I always bed them.....

I was going to sell her, but am looking to buy a new house. So I am going to keep her for another 15 years.

Is BBK the way to go? How many people have the 2k6 rotors? What pads?How many miles have you driven with the 2k6 rotors?

Thanks in advance

 

A few things to consider: Did you break in your new rotors when you put them on? How fast do you drive? How brake-happy are you and do you slam them often?

My $20 per Chinese rotor from Napa with $50 CarQuest ceramics pads last me about 30K and they brake just fine I do drive fast and break them in when I install them... I do a small cleaning service (lube, clean) every season change when I rotate the rims (summer->winter) and I found them to last me 30K before they warp... I find that period normal as all my other cars' brakes behaved the same...

 

I think for the most part, all stock-sized rotors are going to be created equal, regardless of the brand name.

After having used OEM rotors and Frozenrotors and having them both warp as well as seeing people warp other relatively expensive stock-sized rotors, that is my conclusion.

Seems that pad choice seems to have more of an effect on whether the rotors warp or not. Especially since most people here seem to believe that the "warping" we experience is due more to pad material transfer/deposits on the rotors themselves.

After having used OEM pads with stock rotors, then frozenrotors, and having them both warp, I'm now using 6th gen slotted rotors (GD) and OEM 6th gen calipers and pads. I can't remember how long I've been running them, but I think it's probably been 6 months or 11-12k miles. I'll have to verify that later.

No complaints, and they look great. I'm just hoping that they'll go a lot longer than the others.

 

I drive pretty normal most of the time. Most of my driving is highway. Yes I did break-in the rotors. I do not slam on them. I am more of the conservative braker

 

What is your break-in (bedding) procedure?

 

You also have to be careful where you buy the rotors from. I have read many times from vendors in the group deals area that some companies buy Brembo blanks and drill and/or slot them on their own. Bembo casts their drilled and slotted rotors as one piece with the hole and slots in the mold therefore reducing the warping on the rotor itself. Andf if you bought them as true drilled/slotted Brembos I am almost sure a company like that would back them if they are warped. I have Brembo blanks and ceramics with no problems at all.

 

I do 25-30 consecutive accelerations to 40-50 and then lightly brake to almost stop but without stopping so that the pads do not dig in... This is pretty much it and I get the cheap $20 per piece rotors to last me 30K

 

When you are breaking in, you want to avoid dragging the brakes by removing your foot off the pedal when its at a complete stop.

The purpose of this is because you are trying to match both geometric surfaces of the pad and rotor to a near match by providing a stable transfer film. A bad establishment of the good film will increase wear (warped or fast wearing rotors)

http://www.raceshopper.com/tech.shtml#bedding

 

Where the heck are you guys getting $20 a piece rotors? Honestly mine are pretty good so far, i guess their OEM(not sure) got the car with 55k and now has 82 and they dont show a sign of warping one bit but they looked a little grooved and cut when i changed the front pads, so thats why i thought of replacing them. I even work at autozone and the ones we have are 73 bucks, 59 after discount! advance has 'em for around 65, whats up with that? thats why id idnt change them, 1 cause their not warped and 2 price

 

Go to Midas and ask them about their lifetime warranty, I know there is one on the pads. At least if you have it done somewhere, they might know what the problem is or what you are doing wrong.

 

Make sure your lug nuts are torqued to spec. Uneven torque and hot rotors lead to warpage.

 

I second that... 100 in-lbs is the spec I believe...

 

85-100 ft-lbs.

100 inch lbs = 8.33 foot lbs

 

Hehe, correct, it should read ft-lbs... I'm at work and was spec'ing a torque wrench for assembly which was in in-lbs so my fingers automaticaly went for it

 

Zippin - do you still have your OEM rotors sitting around anywhere? If so, go find them. Pick em up, hit them a couple times with a rubber mallet, and see if a crapload of old glazing/pad material falls off of them. If it does, you will know that the pads you are using suck and are transferring the material.