hey Melvin...yeah I am running 0w-30 german castrol....its actually a REAL thick 30 weight, nearly 40 weight oil....Nissan recommends 5w-30...but my german castrol, although rated at 0w-30, is actually thicker than most of the competitor's weights....it will handle 105 degrees fine if u ask me

what oil are you using? I recommend switching to german castrol if you can find any in your area...vq35s love thick oils....mobil1 tends to be on the thin side of the spectrum...and vq35s dont really like thin oils

 

I agree. My altima loved thick oil and most Z owners I talked to live by it. I will look into that. The oil im using now im not even sure. I just got my car from the dealer this past wednesday and I already have the GAB mod w/K&N!! This weekend im thinking of changing the oil just to break it in with the synthetic. I will definently look for the castrol 0w-30. You said german castrol is there a difference or are you just emphasizing its german. HEHE

 

no there actually is a difference...thats why i emphasize GERMAN....

the regular castrol syntec line is made in the USA...5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 20w-50 etc....you will be able to tell when you look on the back of the bottle...it will say Made in USA...german castrol on the other hand, only comes in a 0w-30 and its the ONLY one made in Germany...they are only sold @ autozone or advanced auto parts chains....just letting you know...

basically what your looking for is 0w-30 castrol syntec...and on the back it HAS to say made in germany...let me know if you have any more questions...glad to help

 

Ok sweet! I will look for that. Thank you for the help.

 

OMG!! I just watched your video!! Your car shot out a nice flame!!! Thats nuts man. I didnt expect to see that from a car thats NA!!

Off topic have you heard of the techno square chip? I been researching on that and from what ive read just that chip alone helps alot. Looks like it can shave a good second off the 1/4 from what ive read.

 

maybe it's because mines a 2k, and the hoses were on the other side of the engine, and maybe closer to more heat,

 

Thanks for the compliments...a few locals get suprised and think I am turboed since I shoot flames when I race them

I wouldn't mind the technosquare L-spec ecu....it raises the rev limiter and removes the speed governor and fixes the throttle body problem....thats about it...doesn't mess with the air fuel ratio....but thats becuz I already have an Apex-I V-AFCII piggyback to tune my air fuel ratio...

Your probably talking about the technosquare F-spec ecu....now thats the one I wouldn't wanna buy...it has everything listed from above, but their own maps for air fuel ratio....my personal preference would be to tune my OWN air fuel ratio...instead of using a generic map...every car is a little different, so a piggyback is the way to go if you ask me....I have a PLX R300 wideband as well....

 

I didnt want to sway to much away from your thread so I made a new one specifically for the chips at:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....01#post4918801

BTW that apexi piggyback is sexy. My friend had one in his corolla which was nice.

 

I'm sorry, but this is solving a non-problem. The ounce or two of oil you collect over the 800 miles is not going to affect anything. If you're collecting enough oil to make a difference, you need a rebuild.

 

 

so, ive seen the write up for the 5.0, did anyone do a write up for the 5.5? Im sure its simple, but that usually means ill screw it up.

 

umm...this whole thread is about 5.5 write up...where have u been?

 

Ive been reading talk of it, and I nw know what I need to do it, but I have no idea, even looking at the pics, what to do.

 

the instructions are on the first page....2nd post has all the listing of supplies you need...

 

okay, I must be stupid, blind or both. I only see the parts list, no how to. Plenty of pics tho...

 

you have to know that steven88 is a du rty slat!. hi andrew . hey andrew there isnt any instructions at all. you damn newbie andrew ima beat you ugly with a cancer stick lol.

 

Also, where did u get the parts? AutoZone, PepBoys....Wally-World?

thanks!

 

the diagram goes

1. PCV valve
2. Hose
3. Catch Can
4. Hose
5. Intake manifold

there I copied paste it for you...its post #37...if you guys can't understand this diagram, ya'll have a problem

 

....I have a problem.......

where may I find these points?

.....at least points 1 & 5

 

it's in the back, near the firewall....

 

This is about 400 miles of driving...mixed hwy city...mostly city though....I'm sure I'll be dumping this thing 5 times per oil change (@ 5k intervals)....

now tell me you want all this motor oil getting sucked back into the intake manifold?

 

oil lowers the octane level of gas, I think that is why alot of people ping even with 91 - 93 gas. I need to do this today.

 

Thanks for taking the time and doing sharing all this, def. a mod that has to be done this weekend.

 

Has anyone experimented with different oil to see if they get less blowby. Thicker oil will reduce the blowby. What we need is people to post there oil weight and how much is going into the catch can.

After reading how people are burning oil on the 3.5 Maximas I made my own decision today to go 10w-30 Mobil 1 which is the thicker weight oil that the Nissan manual recommends. I figured less blowby, less detonation.

 

i'm running 0w-30 german castrol...its actually alot thicker than mobil1's 10w-30...german castrol is advertised at the same 30wt as mobil1's 30wt...but mobil1 always tends to be on the thin side of the spectrum...this german castrol however, is a special formula that gets real thick at operating temps....nearly a 40wt

 

http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/gc/gc.html

Damn now I know why look for the green. BAHAHA. steven88 ive read that just googling around but is there actual data that proves that its a higher weight, benefits, etc. Its just crazy how this motor burns oil.

 

yeah there is...just search on google for bob is the oil guy forums...they will have data there

 

you think you can post pics of the exact spots? maybe with arrows? or maybe tell us like where along the firewall it is? i honestly have no idea where the PCV valve is..and where on the IM too hook it up to.

because all I see in your pics is the finished product w/ hoses going into the dark engine bay.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469585
There you go. If you still cant figure it out then you probably shouldnt even try it.

 

noone has said anything so im not sure if anyone who has done this mod has seen it... but on the husky filter, there is a warning sticker stating not to use this filter with any synthetic oils. apparently they will eat away at the bowl and crack through.

 

Read the label and figured it wouldn't matter. I'm not going to use that plastic thing for long. I'm going to buy a nice metal/glass unit.

I had this setup on for about 500 miles and got about 1oz. of oil. I just emptied it about 2 min ago.

 

Steve. Just went out and bought myself the mats, Ive been waiting to do this because I wanted a VQ35 specific write up, you rock!

 

Hey Steve How can I get this Mod what do i Need to get and from where do i get this as for instructions will be much helpful thanks bro.

Mike

 

its in the first and 2nd post...

 

Would this husky filter be a lot better since it has a metal bowl.

Is it too big?

I'm thinking about returning the smaller husky filter and buying this one.

3/8 In. airline filters

• Removes unwanted dirt particles and condensed water to extend tool life.
• 5-micron element.
• Metal bowl guard protects against impacts.
• Quick release bowl and quarter turn drain for easier use.
• 3/8" NPT Female ports.
• 57 SCFM flow capacity @90 PSI.

 

Because the lower viscosity oils are less cohesive and tend to be easier to vaporize- hence resulting in a larger volume of oil collected.

 

Somebody needs to mod this mod to where it automatically purges itself onto the street when the car is stopped at a stop light or stop sign.

 

hey steven, can you tell me where you bought those items? hopefully there is a shop in MA.

 

i got them from home depot

 

I recently went with a new setup...the braided hose did not collapse on me...but I was affraid that sooner or later it would...so I just went to autozone and got myself alot of fuel hose....came out to be like $7...

I got alot of hose becuz I wanted to relocate the tank somewhere else...somewhere closer so it would look more noticeable...and less ghetto...so I attached it near the coolant resourviour...and it looks great! The hose wasn't as cheap as I thought...I believe its $1.25 per foot....as opposed to $0.60 per ft for the braided ones...