dansmax2003

iTrader: (7)

Car is 2003 Maxima SE AT, with 80k miles.

I took it to the local Nissan delaer for "complementary" 100-point inspection.
They did not find anything wrong with it, except, they recommended that i do MAJOR service/tuneup and more specifically, coolant and AT fluid FLUSH + new belts.
When they mentioned the fluids flush, i was shocked because these same guys/dealership did a complete AT and Coolant flush only 18k miles ago!!!! I paid $250 for it. I confronted them and told them that this is impossible ... and in a few minutes they said that it was a "typo" and that the mechanic meant "MINOR service" recommended. No need for AT/coolant flush. You get the idea. These people are croocks!!!

They also said that my drive belts have cracks on them and that i should replace them. They asked $144 for this job, but i said "no".

Do you believe that i need to replace the belts at 80k miles on a 2003 SE?
Is this too early or it sounds about right?
Is $144 for this job too much?
How difficult is this project to do it on my own?

I am really having hard time trusting my dealer's service department. I am hoping that i can get some honest/real-world feedback from the org.

Thank you!

Bezzle01

I would look at the belt yourself and see how it looks, 144 is a little pricey i got a quote from goodyear when i was outta town for 120. I didnt do it because i dont trust good year. Do you belts make any hissing or squealing sound? Im at 76k miles and mine need replacing, they sqeal when its cold out and i turn my wheel. When its warmed up its fine

dansmax2003

iTrader: (7)

My belts are quiet at all times and i do not hear any noises from them - cold or warm. Also, visually, they look fine TO ME.

I just got another quote for $130 from a decent shop in the area.

I wonder if i could do this job on my own and save $100 ....?!?!?! I've done it on old Audi/VW cars in the past and it was a pain....but i wonder if my Maxima is easier.

Thanks!

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

You should rephrase this. I took your car in to find out what the dealership could find wrong with my car and try to sell me.
The "complementary" inspection is pretty much a way to sell you stuff. I'm surprised they didn't also recommend a ground strap for your exhaust. 95% of them brake as well.

The problem is that the tech gets paid on flat rate. If he gets the ok to do the job, he then gets paid book time for the job done. Otherwise He's inspecting the car on his time and is getting paid jack for it.
I.E. - Let's say an inspection takes 1/2 an hour. (It doesn't but just for the sake of argument) If 80 people come in for a "complimentary" inspection and nobody buys anything the tech has now spent 40 hours and has flagged a total of ZERO hours for the week. Even though he has been on the clock for 40 hours his paycheck will read $00.00.. The only exception is that each dealership has a comp pay for slow times of the year. --The way our dealership works is if you are there for 40 hours and have flagged less than 22 then you will get a paycheck for 22 hours. If you where there only 38 hours for the week and only flagged 10 hours, you only get paid for 10 hours.
So if the techs pulled your dipstick and seen it was a little oxidized, but still ok they may recommend it anyways. (After all you took your car there to see if there was anything they needed to fix)...As far as the coolent goes, they probably just recommended that because of the miles/year of your car not realizing that it had just been done... (Coolant can "look" good and according to maintaince need to be changed...rarely anyone actually tests the coolants condition, except checking the boiling/freeze pint, no matter where you go.. Also no tech is going to actually get on the computer for every car that has come in and see what was done previously.)


I don't know about the 3.5, but it's a pretty simple task on a 3.0 with the exception of one bolt that can be a bit of a pain. Difficulty 2.5/10

How much of that is labor, and how much of it is parts?? $144 sounds about right, but I don't know how long that's suppossed to take so I can't say for sure.

An easy way to figure out if you need belts or not is simply look at the belts yourself. Get a flashlight, walk out to your car, pop your hood, and shine the flashlight on the grooved part of your belts. Typically 3 or 4 cracks per inch means it's time to replace it. If it only has a few cracks or no cracks at all, you probably don't need it replaced. Typically most people don't recommend belts needing changed unless they are truely cracked. After 80K I would expect they are probably about due.

Love_00_Max

$144 seems OK to me with the parts. I bought the belts from the dealer for to $40 + tax (both belts) and got it replaced by a private shop for $80 + tax. So it seems reasonable -- make sure they indeed replaced the belts.

qballjr13

I got a stealership quote of $140 to have it done so that sounds like its in the ballpark. I ended buying cheap belts online and they cracked in no time. IMO yes, at 80K it is VERY likely they need to be replaced. Just because they dont squeal doesnt mean they arent cracked or just worn out...they are only rubber. If one of them snaps it can cause more damage to other parts and leave you stranded at the same time. I would do it yourself, not as easy as a surpentine belt but it can be done relatively easily. Just spend the money on quality belts.

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

If you do have the dealer do it ask for your old belts back

Love_00_Max

That doesn't determine the belts were replaced, the old belts could have come from another car too... Right.

The best way to determine the stealership did change the belts is to examine the old belts and check the ones replaced are crisp, clean and offcourse the OEM part number on the belts nice and bright!!!

The above apprehension of the stealership is why I bought the belts and replaced it by another private shop.

MetaOrbit

iTrader: (19)

If you're not having any problems and the belts look visibly fine then I'd leave them be.

My belts were replaced around 80-85k at the Infiniti dealer to the tune of about $100. In my case, they did have cracks in them and I felt the price to be fair.

opanick

iTrader: (1)

i just replaced my belts at 73k, both belts had cracks all over im surprised they didnt bust on me, luckily my uncle owns a shop and he got me the belts for $25 and he did the labor for free, but he said normally he would have charged $75

myktek

they told me that when i did my 60k service....i'm at 111k now and belts are still going strong.....

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

i'm at surprised how far everyone is pushing their belts. when my udp was put on at 50k, both belts were replaced and they had cracks. my stock pulley also had cracks...

trigger005

iTrader: (8)

yeap that time of year.

i also got this coupon in my local newspaper and will goto the dealer this week to see WHAT they can find wrong... (not IF they can find anything wrong)

qballjr13

I actually had a dealership give me a check list saying that everything was OK!! I was shocked! They must have had a lot of stupid people come in before me that they screwed!

shobuddy

iTrader: (1)

I had some work done at the dealers last week and they recommended changing the drive belts as well. I have an 03 with 57k miles. They quoted $150 for the job.

My questions are:

1. What is a drive belt and how many are there?
2. Where can I find the drive belt(s)? I looked under the hood w/a flashlight. On the left side near the alternator I saw 2 belts that looked almost like new to me. I also saw one belt on the right side of the car towards the back of the engine(facing the car from the front). Are any one of these the drive belt(s)?

Thanks

Mints33

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure about the 3.5, but on the 3.0, 2000-01, there are 2 drive belts, on the right side(passenger) of the engine. One is the alternator belt, and the other, somewhat skinnier, is the p/s belt.

These belts are rubber, and over time they will stretch. Personally, I would change mine @ 60K or less or every 3-5 years. Of course everyone will give you a different answer. I had a belt on my last car which looked really good on one side, but on the underside (ribbed side), it was cracked to heck.

MAX_AE

The drive belt pulls the A/C, alternator, and emission pump. It's looped over at least 3 pullies (plus the tensioner). The smaller belt behind it drives the power steering pump. It's only bent over two pullies with a tensioner in the middle. That said, the drive belt is more susceptible to cracks because it's doing more work and bent more. The power steering belt is likely not going to be as worn.

I changed both belts on my '01 just a month ago at 100k miles. I replaced them with OEM belts. The drive belt is easy to replace yourself, the belt behind it is much more difficult IMHO just because the bolts to the power steering pump and tensioner are so difficult to get to. You'll need to take your passenger side tire off too. At the time it would have been worth someone else doing it for $100.

My drive belt could have lasted another 50k miles in my opinion, it had cracks, but was far from falling apart. The powersteering belt wasn't cracked at all and looked as good as the belt I replaced it with. I'm still glad I replaced them when i did, but I wouldn't be in any hurry at 80k miles.

20max01

2001 with fact. belts still , 89K..when it rains or is a little damp they squeek until the car warms up a tad...still no problems.

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

My belts were starting to get squeaky around 60-70k and i had one of these complimentary 100-point inspections as well. At the time i felt jypped for $86 on the belts and a tensioner adjustment but these postings puts my mind at ease every time. It sounds like i had a good deal.