Brake caliper torque specs?
#1
Brake caliper torque specs?
After 30min of searching and reading old threads, I still cannot find the torque specs for re-tightening the caliper and torque member after pad and rotor change. Can someone point me to a good thread? I read the writeup on motorvate.ca but it did not mention torque specs.
Also, when pushing back the caliper piston back, does it need to be pushed all the way in? (as pictured in motorvate.ca) Or just enough to be flush with the caliper itself? Thanks for the help
Also, when pushing back the caliper piston back, does it need to be pushed all the way in? (as pictured in motorvate.ca) Or just enough to be flush with the caliper itself? Thanks for the help
#4
Originally Posted by Bluesbrekr
Not sure about the torque spec. For the piston I pushed/turned it in flush with the caliper.
#5
Use a C-clamp on the front calipers. Really only need it pushed in as far as you need to slide the caliper back on over the rotor and pads.
On the rear calipers, you basically screw (turn) the piston back rather than simply compress it.
On the rear calipers, you basically screw (turn) the piston back rather than simply compress it.
#6
Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
On the rear calipers, you basically screw (turn) the piston back rather than simply compress it.
#7
according to my FSM...
Front Caliper Bolts = 16-23 ft lbs
Front Torque Member (aka caliper bracket) = 106-126 ft lbs
I was skeptical of the caliper bracket specs....when I did my brakes, I remember it being nowhere near 120ft-lbs...thats way too strong if u ask me...then I checked out my Haynes manual, and it says 53-72 ft lbs is the spec for the caliper bracket...now that sounds alot more right than the FSM
Front Caliper Bolts = 16-23 ft lbs
Front Torque Member (aka caliper bracket) = 106-126 ft lbs
I was skeptical of the caliper bracket specs....when I did my brakes, I remember it being nowhere near 120ft-lbs...thats way too strong if u ask me...then I checked out my Haynes manual, and it says 53-72 ft lbs is the spec for the caliper bracket...now that sounds alot more right than the FSM
#9
Originally Posted by n3985
After 30min of searching and reading old threads, I still cannot find the torque specs for re-tightening the caliper and torque member after pad and rotor change. Can someone point me to a good thread? I read the writeup on motorvate.ca but it did not mention torque specs.
Also, when pushing back the caliper piston back, does it need to be pushed all the way in? (as pictured in motorvate.ca) Or just enough to be flush with the caliper itself? Thanks for the help
Also, when pushing back the caliper piston back, does it need to be pushed all the way in? (as pictured in motorvate.ca) Or just enough to be flush with the caliper itself? Thanks for the help
#10
Originally Posted by n3985
Oh I see, I am only replacing front rotors and pads as my shakes like no other nowadays with the warped rotors. I think with only 18,1xx miles my rear brakes should be OK for now. Thanks for the clarification.
I hope you're either going A34 front brakes or getting aftermarket pads + the cheapest rotors you can find (they're all just as likely to warp as any other, IMO). On the stock sized A33B brakes I warped them no matter what type of rotor I had (though I used OEM pads with each). So, I'd try an aftermarket pad (maybe ceramic?) or go A34.
#11
I'm going with OEM size Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. Through my searches, I've found that no one with HPS pads has warped their rotors from pad deposits. So I hope my rotors won't be warped anytime soon....I brake early and light
So for the torque member, do I follow the Haynes specs or FSM? Big difference between the two...
So for the torque member, do I follow the Haynes specs or FSM? Big difference between the two...
#12
Originally Posted by n3985
I'm going with OEM size Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. Through my searches, I've found that no one with HPS pads has warped their rotors from pad deposits. So I hope my rotors won't be warped anytime soon....I brake early and light
So for the torque member, do I follow the Haynes specs or FSM? Big difference between the two...
So for the torque member, do I follow the Haynes specs or FSM? Big difference between the two...
when u go to do your brakes...and u use ALOT of force to break those bolts loose, then I'm sure your car came with the FSM specs....if thats the case, then go ahead and torque them using the FSM specs...but if u break them loose without putting that much force, then go ahead n use the haynes specs
you should be able to tell if it's torqued on there hard or not
#13
Originally Posted by steven88
I would follow the haynes spec...cuz when i took mine out, i am 100% positive it was not torqued in the 120 range...thats freakin hard as he!!...I used a large breaker bar, and I remember putting some force, then it broke loose...i would say the haynes spec is right on target at 53-72 foot pounds....
when u go to do your brakes...and u use ALOT of force to break those bolts loose, then I'm sure your car came with the FSM specs....if thats the case, then go ahead and torque them using the FSM specs...but if u break them loose without putting that much force, then go ahead n use the haynes specs
you should be able to tell if it's torqued on there hard or not
when u go to do your brakes...and u use ALOT of force to break those bolts loose, then I'm sure your car came with the FSM specs....if thats the case, then go ahead and torque them using the FSM specs...but if u break them loose without putting that much force, then go ahead n use the haynes specs
you should be able to tell if it's torqued on there hard or not
The car manufacturers know much more about the products they designed then any of the aftermarket manual writers. Don't risk your own safety and other people who share the same road with you, especially for the most crucial component of your ride. Tighten it up pls!
#14
Don't really understand the fuss over warped rotors ( deposit) I was feeling mine judder a little after some continous highway braking, so I just took them to a machine shop they spec'd them and they had never been turned before, $30 for the pair ( off the car) and they're great now.
#15
I know this is off subject..but i have a question for you PROS.
Can i fit the STI front brembo set-up on my maxima???
N if they do work...will it work with stock 17's???
I need to know cause i have a set and if they dont work umma sell them on ebay....
Can i fit the STI front brembo set-up on my maxima???
N if they do work...will it work with stock 17's???
I need to know cause i have a set and if they dont work umma sell them on ebay....
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