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Brakes and starting issue

Old May 11, 2006 | 07:26 AM
  #1  
1MaXXfan's Avatar
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Brakes and starting issue

Quick question. I've done the rear breaks before in terms of pad replacement. I bought the tool from sears to "push" the piston back and fit the new pads.
I've noticed since then that there was some "sticking" and the pads are worn down already along with a metallic burn smell once in awhile with a clicking sound to it.

I've got new pads and new rotors and planning on swapping out all of it.

So how much do I "push" the piston back? was the potential problem not putting it back far enough? I've read other posts on brakes, but i haven't quite seen the details on this, any help would be great.


BTW the dealership told me a couple of months ago, "oh there's no problem, the calipers not sticking and what noise?" and i spent $700 bucks that day on maintenance and am still having issues with starting. It starts but sounds like you turned the key too far and held it too long. (No that isn't what I'm doing)
any ideas.
Old May 11, 2006 | 07:37 AM
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Brakes - You dont "push" our caliper pistons, they have groves in them and need to be spun back into the caliper. You can rent the tool to do this at Auto Zone for free. The push tool you bought is usless on our calipers.

Starting issue - I would think that your starter is going. The noise you described (when the car is running and you turn the key) is the flywheel teeth grinding with the starter teeth. So maybe your starter is going and berely turning the flywheel fast enough to get the flywheel going?
Old May 11, 2006 | 08:04 AM
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qballjr13 Brakes - "You dont "push" our caliper pistons, they have groves in them and need to be spun back into the caliper. You can rent the tool to do this at Auto Zone for free. The push tool you bought is usless on our calipers."

Thx. I have the sears brake tool that attaches to a ratchet set or drill that "spins it in" I used the generic push term to simplify.

To clarify when I did my pads last summer I spun the piston back to the point of being able to fit the new pads, but should it have gone back further?

On the starter any ideas of how much your dealers charge...the part alone goes for $200-$400 from what i've seen.

thx.
Old May 11, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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my car seems to do this ever now and then it will make a noise similar to this on startup, usually when its cold out,
Old May 11, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1MaXXfan
qballjr13 Brakes - "You dont "push" our caliper pistons, they have groves in them and need to be spun back into the caliper. You can rent the tool to do this at Auto Zone for free. The push tool you bought is usless on our calipers."

Thx. I have the sears brake tool that attaches to a ratchet set or drill that "spins it in" I used the generic push term to simplify.

To clarify when I did my pads last summer I spun the piston back to the point of being able to fit the new pads, but should it have gone back further?

On the starter any ideas of how much your dealers charge...the part alone goes for $200-$400 from what i've seen.

thx.

Turn in piston all the way in. Don't worry after you put everything back and start driving you max again it'll adjust itself. BTW make sure that you use shims those which were with the new pads or old ones if they in good cond, otherwise buy new set.
Old May 11, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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Sounds like one of your calipers is sticking. Time to bleed the brake fluid and put in some fresh fluid. BTW>..when was that done last? Recommended to do that every 2 years.
Old May 16, 2006 | 01:05 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
Sounds like one of your calipers is sticking. Time to bleed the brake fluid and put in some fresh fluid. BTW>..when was that done last? Recommended to do that every 2 years.
I'll give that a try, I tended to let the stealership do the stuff. Lately the results are garbage. They claim no issues, yet I'm seeing serious performance drops. Hence I have to do things myself again. so be it.
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