RedLine Motor Oil
Redline is good oil but IMHO it's not $2-3+ better than Mobil 1 synthetic available at Target, K-Mart etc...In fact I'm not convinced it's even better period. Especially in a na maxima. But I would advise on having a minimum amount of miles before switching to synthetic. Like 5 or 10,000 miles.
Redline Oil is interesting. You can get it for $6.30/qt or cheaper plus shipping if you look hard enough.
First, they do make an oil for pretty much any application whether it be street/strip/autocross/motorcycles/lawnmowers/etc...
I personally have not switched to Redline in my Max because I don't feel I need it, YET! However, if I had a SC/NOS/turbo, I would DEFINITELY use Redline. This stuff is pretty impressive and gives protection most synthetics would not be able to provide at EXTREMELY high temps like cooling a turbo. I've discussed Redline products with a very bright engineer friend of mine who said he has never personally used it, but he knows of many car and motorcyle racers who swear by the stuff after YEARS of use.
You may laugh, but I recently joined a mini-NASKART race team at my company which purchased 7-identical cars for different divisions and locations where I live. We run a Briggs&Stratton 3.5 hp(stock) engine in our cars in the Arizona summer heat. First, stock these engines are limited to around 3750 RPMs. We currently are running over 7000 RPMs on our slightly modified engine with 8000 RPMs within close reach. I know you may not think this is much, but this impressive little engine is moving some air at 7000+ RPMs and makes approximately 6-7 horsepower at the crank. They old engine dropped a valve(before I joined) at around 12 hrs., so we purchased a new one. The engine was brought to life with a 20W-50 dino oil and ran a few races inwhich we stayed pretty even with the pack of about 25 cars. Then we changed the oil and put in a Redline 15W-40 oil without any other changes and for the rest of the day we easily pulled away from the fastest cars on straight aways without a question. Anyways, we ended up winning the competition against the other cars who have been racing longer than we had and the whole time the other teams were trying to get us disqualified for BS, because they knew we were the fastest car out there. An interesting thing that we noticed was that as the race progressed and the cars' engines got hot the engine produced more power. Redline claims this and as far as I'm concerned that $hit really works. After several more races and the WIN, we did a compression check on the engine and it actually increased in compression, which is typical as they break-in. We tore part of the engine down and there was no noticeable damage, so far.
Saturday, we will be running a Redline 30W RACE oil which is one step thinner than the 15W-40 and we will see how the engine holds up at the new 7000+ RPM redline vs the 6200 we were able to get at the above race. We tried to get a 10W which is DAMN thin oil, but the shop was out of stock. Hopefully, by the following race we will have a shop that can come through in time, since they normally don't stock the 2W, 5W, or 10W Race Synthetic Redline oil. Redline claims a 2-6% increase in horsepower over an equal weight dino oil and I can honestly say you get more power, but only time and a few more races will tell if we are getting enough protection under the extreme temps we are running. I've seen a couple websites that dynoed the Redline products in a C5 Corvette and they produced more horsepower/torque. I currently purchased the Redline MT-90 manual tranny oil, so I will be putting my money where my mouth is soon enough.
First, they do make an oil for pretty much any application whether it be street/strip/autocross/motorcycles/lawnmowers/etc...
I personally have not switched to Redline in my Max because I don't feel I need it, YET! However, if I had a SC/NOS/turbo, I would DEFINITELY use Redline. This stuff is pretty impressive and gives protection most synthetics would not be able to provide at EXTREMELY high temps like cooling a turbo. I've discussed Redline products with a very bright engineer friend of mine who said he has never personally used it, but he knows of many car and motorcyle racers who swear by the stuff after YEARS of use.
You may laugh, but I recently joined a mini-NASKART race team at my company which purchased 7-identical cars for different divisions and locations where I live. We run a Briggs&Stratton 3.5 hp(stock) engine in our cars in the Arizona summer heat. First, stock these engines are limited to around 3750 RPMs. We currently are running over 7000 RPMs on our slightly modified engine with 8000 RPMs within close reach. I know you may not think this is much, but this impressive little engine is moving some air at 7000+ RPMs and makes approximately 6-7 horsepower at the crank. They old engine dropped a valve(before I joined) at around 12 hrs., so we purchased a new one. The engine was brought to life with a 20W-50 dino oil and ran a few races inwhich we stayed pretty even with the pack of about 25 cars. Then we changed the oil and put in a Redline 15W-40 oil without any other changes and for the rest of the day we easily pulled away from the fastest cars on straight aways without a question. Anyways, we ended up winning the competition against the other cars who have been racing longer than we had and the whole time the other teams were trying to get us disqualified for BS, because they knew we were the fastest car out there. An interesting thing that we noticed was that as the race progressed and the cars' engines got hot the engine produced more power. Redline claims this and as far as I'm concerned that $hit really works. After several more races and the WIN, we did a compression check on the engine and it actually increased in compression, which is typical as they break-in. We tore part of the engine down and there was no noticeable damage, so far.
Saturday, we will be running a Redline 30W RACE oil which is one step thinner than the 15W-40 and we will see how the engine holds up at the new 7000+ RPM redline vs the 6200 we were able to get at the above race. We tried to get a 10W which is DAMN thin oil, but the shop was out of stock. Hopefully, by the following race we will have a shop that can come through in time, since they normally don't stock the 2W, 5W, or 10W Race Synthetic Redline oil. Redline claims a 2-6% increase in horsepower over an equal weight dino oil and I can honestly say you get more power, but only time and a few more races will tell if we are getting enough protection under the extreme temps we are running. I've seen a couple websites that dynoed the Redline products in a C5 Corvette and they produced more horsepower/torque. I currently purchased the Redline MT-90 manual tranny oil, so I will be putting my money where my mouth is soon enough.
There's no doubt that synthetic oil is better - after the motor is broken in. Not only is it more slippery but it pumps easier (it takes a lot of horsepower to run the oil pump!) so you get more power and gas mileage and less wear and heat. It also lasts longer than dino oil. Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Redline are the best. Mobil 1 is the least expensive of the best. Is Redline 30% (approximate price difference) better than Mobil 1? I doubt it.
Dave
Dave
Not realated to motor oil
I know this is a motor oil question, but I will say that anyone who has or is planning on getting Don's vb recalibration, he recommends Redline tranny fluid (which is also about $7.0 per quart). Just my half cents worth since this question wasn't really about tranny fluid - i'm just tyring to get my posts up like Kev.
BTW, I use the tranny fluid in my car and Mobil 1 in my engine.
BTW, I use the tranny fluid in my car and Mobil 1 in my engine.
Re: Not realated to motor oil
Originally posted by blackY2Kmax
i'm just tyring to get my posts up like Kev.
i'm just tyring to get my posts up like Kev.
Stick with Mobil 1 (the cheapest of the good stuff) and save your $$$ for some mods.
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