cwc412

I have a 2003 SE 6 speed with about 65000 miles. When I floor the throttle, the car is sluggish from idle to about 3000/3500 rpm. In addition to the sluggishness, there seems to be the occassional hesitation under load. Almost like a plug isn't firing. I tried a rolling start in 1st gear (let the clutch all the way out and then floor the throttle) and the car doesn't respond right away and then starts to accelerate relatively slowly until the engine reaches 3000-3500 rpm and then it pulls reasonably hard. If I tried a rolling start when the car was new, the tires would spin on anything but hot dry pavement.

I've had the injectors cleaned about 15,000 miles ago and had the software upgrade for 6 speeds about a year and a half ago.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Try resetting the ECU.

"PoW"

Check your coils...

Maxima-2

iTrader: (8)

sounds similar to how my 00' was acting b4 I replaced the MAF.

cwc412

Thanks for your replies. I disconnected my battery for about 10 minutes and there isn't much difference in performance. I also pulled the front three plugs and they look relatively clean (the gap looks fine, no oil or residue, although the plugs are darker than new ones except for the tips which are a shade white). Coils look normal as well.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Coils 'look' normal? does that mean. These are elctronic, they could 'look' brand new, but be dead. Spec them out, and reset your ECU, and TB the correct way.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

yeah, unplugging the battery for 10 minutes isn't going to help...just do all this to be safe:

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.


Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.





and i don't wanna hear anything about spoonfeeding newbs

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

So... I did all of the above and mine still seems like its going to die!
I'm afraid to bring it to the dealer, but I may have to anyway...

Any other tips to this? Like leaving the battery unplugged overnight?
please help... Dealer gave me an appt for Thursday morning and would love to take care of this somehow as I am totally broke!!! Teins, brake job and exhaust job made me poor!!!

00maxser

same thing, and ran better than before i had the problem when i replaced maf.

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

I see... I have a AAA Aftermarket Warranty and I think it would be covered under it, can anyone relate to this?
I had my MAF changed 2 yrs ago... under the Factory Warranty...
I remember this happening a few months back and the Dealer did the Idle Air reprogramming and charged me $85... I didnt try to use my warranty back then though!!!

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

Whats the normal RPM when in Drive and in Park?
Mine is 550 in Drive and 700 in Park...
It's an Auto

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

In "P" or "N"
MT = 625 +/-50 RPM
AT = 675 +/-50 RPM

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

Thanks... It's acting alright now... I think I will get it checked out tomorrow anyway!

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

So... It was perfect Thursday, so I canceled the appt and today on my way home it started stalling really bad! Now I gotta wait till Monday!
I hope they dont give me a hard time cuz I have a Stillen Cone filter and blame it on that!!!!
I have a AAA warranty and hopefully they dont gimme crap cuz the car is modified either! pray for me!!!!!

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

So... I still have a problem!

2002 Max

I noticed that the CEL doesnt blink on any of the procedures I did to
a. Reset the ECU
b. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure
c. Idle Air Volume Learning or
d. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

What could I be doing wrong? Please help....
Is there something simple that I am missing here?

I have a Stillen Cone filter and I think I will put back the factory Intake back one... but I am missing the bolts to put it back on... where can I get those? before I bring it to the dealer..

EnemyKhan

First post, woot. So yeah, My maxima seems a bit sluggish as well (2002 SE). It does have loads of milage on it already (108,800) and everything is stock. Are there any light mods/services that could be done to help restore it to its fullest potential?

carsarecool

iTrader: (1)

You guys know theres an act, like part of the law, that says a shop can't deny you warranty work due to a mod unless they can absolutely prove your mod made that part go bad.

BUSi87

Dunno but i was having the same problem and i disconnected the battery and let its sit for two days... My service light was on previously and i had a reall high idle 1,000 and jumped randomly to 1500 rpms. A well i drove it today and no more CEL and no more high idle. stays at around 650-675. Oh yea my max a 6spd.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Make sure the car is at operating temperature or else you could sit there all night and not have anything blink at you.

EnemyKhan

What I meant was, are there any tune ups to help a 100,000+ maxima feel a little closer to how it used to when it wasn't so old. with the exception of getting a new engine or tranny of course.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

My reply wasn't meant for you, it was meant toward the original poster, so stop thread jacking.

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

reporting back...
Dropped of the car this morning at the dealership and they found the MAF to be root cause of it all... So they ordered it and will be there in the morning and I will get it back tomorrow itself...
The Service guy whom I met for the first time literally saved me hundreds of dollars! Cuz AAA-my aftermarket warranty provider initially denied the claim cuz of the Aftermarket Intake... but the Service guy fought for me and got it approved! man-o-man!! I was freakin out when I found out that they were voiding my warranty!!!! phew... Im sooooo relieved now.. I gotta pay the dealer $81 and thats it! phew!! better than paying $700+

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Why would you pay 700+??

A new MAF from Dave Burnette is ~ 100 shipped, so

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

Mine is an '02 and the whole assembly with labor and programming was gonna cost me all that!!!

I called Dave B and he quoted me $359.xx for the MAF alone and then I would've had to pay for the sofware update and all that jazzz...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Get a 2K1 MAF..... And DIY... It's easier than putting on your shoes.

But all is solved.... Congrats on the deal...

EastSideMaxima

iTrader: (4)

I've heard of it, but DaveB was like... you gotta get the whole assembly!
I dont know... but I'm glad I got this deal!!!
Thanks to you and everyone who tried helping me to reset the ECU