Ok, hopefully someone here can help me out. Heres the story, I've had my 5.5 gen for 4-5 months now. Yesterday, went to work at 1 PM, car was driving fine. Came back out at around 5, just to go out for a fun drive, car will not start. When I got to the car, the keyfob/alarm worked, windows, lights, stereo, everything works fine. So the battery is still giving power. Next, we tried jumping, which I realize was stupid, no luck. My co-worker who was a mechanic, checks the coils, and I mentioned that the fuel pump would prime rough once in a while, and said that could be the problem. Today, I bought a fuel pump, installed it, no luck. The starter doesn't click or anything and doesn't have an aftermarket kill switch. I had to get the car towed home last night, and I'm hoping someone can give me some insight before I have to take it to the dealership. BTW, I'm at 51k miles on a 2002, no extended warranty, just powertrain. Any advice would be helpful, thanks in advance.

 

If the engine is not cranking, and this happens intermittently, could be a loose contact inside the keyring.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump prime up when you turn the key on? Also check to see if you are getting 12 volts to the starter could be a loose wire?

 

ok...question. are you pushing the clutch in all the way? im not talking down to you....sometimes its the simple things.
sometimes i forget to push it all the way to the floor and wonder why its not starting.
if this isnt it, i'll try and help figure something else out.

 

kyk - The engine will not start at all, its not an intermittent problem.

LIFESUPPORT - I do hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key to ON. How exactly would I go about checking the starter for voltage?

sooner - I thought that at first, but I've had it to the floor many times, as well as my friends tried.

 

Did you have your crank positioning sensor replaced under warranty?

 

Not that I know of. Is there something I need to know about it? Should I just tow it to the dealership on Monday? I would like to get the car back asap, even if it costs me a little bit.

 

BTW, I had the GAB setup w/ the OEM filter installed. That wouldn't have had anything to do with it, right? MAF? I don't know too much about the sensitive MAF symptoms.

 

Nah. The car will still crank with a bad MAF, it'll just drive and sound like sh*t.

 

Dropped it off at the dealership today, will update with situation. I can't think of what it could be. Watch it be something like a squirrel stuck inside my intake.

 

just because the electronics work under light load, doesnt mean that the battery isnt the problem. a dead cell will hold at around 10-11V, but under heavy load (like during cranking) drop down to 2-3v or so. whenever you have a no crank situation, check the battery first, as well as the terminal/post connection. if you dont have a voltmeter, use the headlights or door lights during cranking, and after cranking, either battery terminal being hot will signify a bad connection.

then start working toward starter/ign sw./etc. problems

 

Even a weak (but not completely dead) battery should crank the starter, but not turning it over to start the engine.

 

u changed your fuel pump, so u're mech. savvy, and I know I'm suggesting the obvious, but sometimes the basics can be overlooked - do u have gas? Are the batt. terms. clean? My Supra would not start, no cranking, nothing, after cleaning the terminals, she started right up. HTH. Good luck!

 

I just found this at Nissan's "recall" website that involves 5.5 gen Max. Hope it helps ...


Defect:
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE CIRCUIT BOARD FOR THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR MAY HAVE AN IMPROPER SOLDER JOINT DUE TO SOLDER DEFORMATION CAUSED BY HEAT STRESS ACCELERATED BY THE EXISTENCE OF FLUX RESIDUE DURING THE SOLDERING PROCESS.

Consequence:
THIS COULD CAUSE THE "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON, CREATE A NO START CONDITION, CAUSE REDUCED ENGINE POWER, OR CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STOP RUNNING WITHOUT WARNING DURING VEHICLE OPERATION, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CRANK POSITION SENSORS. VEHICLES INVOLVED IN A PREVIOUS RECALL CAMPAIGN, 01V357, ARE ALSO INCLUDED IN THIS NEW CAMPAIGN. THE REPLACEMENT SENSORS USED IN THAT CAMPAIGN ARE ALSO AFFECTED. OWNER NOTIFICATION IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING DECEMBER 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT NISSAN AT 1-800-647-7261 OR INFINITI AT 1-800-662-6200.

 

Problem found: Control unit for security system. Went into limp/lock mode, so key would not start car. Now I need your advice. Basically, this car is stock, came with factory alarm system.

I am paying 89 for diagnostics, and they quoted me 417 (parts/labor) for the installation of the unit and reprogramming the keys. If anyone has insight on this, and how exactly I would go about doing the same labor, should I buy the parts and do it myself? Does reprogramming the keys require any special tools? Help please.

 

I might be out of luck:

http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB99-063.htm


I guess I have to pay the dealership because I don't have access to a CONSULT II. Hope this helps some people in the future.

 

Is this covered by your 5 yr. powertrain warranty? I ask because your car has become immobilized due to this "limp/lock" mode the dealer diagnosed, and if u're car is not able to move due to this unusual circumstance would it not be covered under the powertrain warranty? Its just a thought...

Can you ask them what code are you getting? Did your SES light even come on? I'm wondering if you're crank position sensor went fubar..... damn, wish I could help, but one way to look at it is it will be fixed albeit @ $500+ I have an '02 6 spd. also, and am wondering what is really your problem. Man I hate dealers...

 

I was under the impression that electrical/security system wouldn't be covered under powertrain. They said if it was a powertrain issue, then there would be no diagnosis charge. I couldn't really tell if I had a SES light, because the car would not crank over, so I didn't really pay too much attention to the gauge lights. I should've checked that though. I'll ask them if they know.

 

also your link http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB02-005.htm
is about hood vibration - ???

Did u mean this:http://www.nissanhelp.com/Ownership/.../NTB99-063.htm

if that's the case, are not NTSB's covered?? These are known defects in the car, and I would think should be covered. But I don't konw for sure. I would call NNA. $500 is a LOT of money, and you wanna make sure the dealer is not screwing you....

Any orgers out there???

 

Thank you for correcting my link, which is fixed now. I was under the impression that TSBs are just meant for the dealership to know how to fix certain issues. If anyone can verify that these should be free, please chime in asap. I would really appreciate it.

 

Also, skimming the NTSB, it seems the system won't start due to a non-registered key. I assume you have a registered key, and therefore, the system has failed. I would def. call NNA, tell them what the dealer is telling you, then tell NAA about the NTSB, and why you should have to pay for a Nissan acknowledged defect in the car, especially of this sever type - where the car won't start. This is not wear and tear, and is not due to your negligence and you have legitimate keys.

I still think it may be your CPS, but if the dealer is saying its this security thing, then fine, use their description, pull out the NTSB, and call NNA, and give 'em hell. This is my opinion, and I'm sorry, I'm not a Max expert, so if I'm guiding you the wrong way, someone please chime in, but this is what I would do. I don't see a "customer pay" repair in this case - esp. with a NTSB.

 

what makes you think that nissan should pay for something just because theres a TSB on it?

this procedure will require a consult-II... you might try talking to one of the techs and see if theyll do it on the side... i bet you get away with $50ish plus parts.

 

TSBs are only free if covered by warranty. they are diffirent from a recall, thats free every time

 

The car starts up now, picking it up later today. So far, it was the NATS unit that needed to be replaced, and they also had to reprogram the keys. Total: $532 w/ tax. Ouch. Will update more when I get the paperwork.

 

I got the car back yesterday, and now my sunroof open and close lever will not work, however my sunroof tilt switch moves the sunroof both ways. (One way will tilt it and the other will slide it back. Now the dealership says that the two are no way related. Is there anything between the NATS and any sunroof related electronics?

 

Hmm...don't laugh. About 3 years ago, I went out to start my 2000 SE and it would not turn. Had no clue what it could be. I had it towed to Nissan. I found out SOMETHING had chewed through some of my wiring. The tech was nice and didn't tell this to my warranty company, so it was covered. Otherwise it would've been about $400.

 

For some reason, my sunroof fixed itself. I have destructive and generous squirrels. Go figure.

 

probably just needed a recal?