Finding the cure for Bose subwoofer
07-26-2006 | 05:54 PM
#1
Finding the cure for Bose subwoofer
My stock sub has a really annoying problem of cutting in and out no matter how high the bass is turned up. I searched through some threads and found this:
My wiring doesn't seem to be the same as the description. Can anyone make sense of this? Do the colors change from certain years?
The 'red' in this pic is actually orange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1/DSCN0678.jpg
Other side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/monty31/hand.jpg
Originally Posted by jazzyjay
Ok here it is down and dirty. There are three wires(black, orange and blue) going into the switch beside the sub and two wires(orange and black) leading out. On the side with the two wires, splice into the Orange wire and connect it to a + power source. I hooked mine to the red wire powering the trunk light bulb. Maybe one day I will do a nice write up.
The 'red' in this pic is actually orange.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...1/DSCN0678.jpg
Other side
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v165/monty31/hand.jpg
07-27-2006 | 09:07 PM
#3
no idea, but i hooked my aftermarket amps line level inputs up to the output of the circuit board inside that black plastic peice around the sub, works ****ing great, what you should do is try putting a DC voltmeter on the output from the mini amp/crossover in the sub in that picture above and try and determine if it is the sub or the circuit board, then go from there
07-27-2006 | 09:39 PM
#4
I had the same problem, but ignored it until I put my MTX 12's in. 
But, I was reading on here recently that the little black box that plugs into the sub has solder joints that can come lose. You may want to look into that, too.
But, I was reading on here recently that the little black box that plugs into the sub has solder joints that can come lose. You may want to look into that, too.
07-27-2006 | 11:57 PM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub 
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
08-06-2006 | 03:36 PM
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
I removed the "black box"... which wires are the positive and negative used to directly hook up the sub to the harness wires?
Originally Posted by † ErV †
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
08-07-2006 | 02:16 AM
#10
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2
I purchased a 2001 SE and the stock sub was missing. Nissan wanted almost $700 for a replacement sub. I just replaced the head unit(XM ready), ran new wiring, and aftermarket sub and amp for under $700. I got tired of trying to figure out the stupid stock amp. Just my opinion.
08-09-2006 | 08:43 PM
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
Cool...brands and models?
Originally Posted by davisenvy
I purchased a 2001 SE and the stock sub was missing. Nissan wanted almost $700 for a replacement sub. I just replaced the head unit(XM ready), ran new wiring, and aftermarket sub and amp for under $700. I got tired of trying to figure out the stupid stock amp. Just my opinion.
08-13-2006 | 09:50 PM
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
I'd like to hear how you accomplished this.
Originally Posted by † ErV †
i'll give you the solution in very unclear terms, what you do is up to you... you can of course always replace it with a 33330" aftermarket sub
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
there is a bypass cable that hooks up to some kind of a small black box/whatever. it is stuck somewhere to the side of the woofer. remove it and hook up the sub straight to the plug that comes from the frame wiring.
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car. mine malfunctioned long ago and it drove me mad.. till i god rid of this pos and hooked the sub directly to the stock socket.
if you look, can't miss it
08-14-2006 | 12:32 AM
#14
If anyone is interested in putting in a new free air 8 inch sub..I just did so...The ID sub is great..will take some time to get the bass eq and gains set right...just look in the audio forums for a thread called proud new owner of ID v8 sub.
08-15-2006 | 01:15 AM
#15
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by jenk01SE
I removed the "black box"... which wires are the positive and negative used to directly hook up the sub to the harness wires?
it's a socket plug, it should only go one way. i can take some photos tomorrow if needed (haven't read all the new replies yet)
08-15-2006 | 03:59 PM
#17
Originally Posted by † ErV †
the little box is there for one purpose: to eliminate the pop you hear when you power up and down the system/car.if you look, can't miss it
how is that possible.... seems like a waste AND it doen't work...
i have this black box plugged into an amp and it pops everytime i start the car....maybe cause it is amplified but still seems like a waste i will look at it again tonight and see what it might be for my own curiosity.
08-18-2006 | 05:20 PM
#18
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Posts: n/a
here is how mine is plugged in after the black box (whatever it does - i am not going to argue, do not care what it does, do not care why it is there) died on me and caused the sub to cut out intermittently:
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
08-19-2006 | 09:53 AM
#19
mine does the same cutting in and out. your talking about this black box???? I have no black box beside my subwoofer or anywhere around my subwoofer. does it matter that I have a AE??? or do you have pictures of this black box. b/c in the pictures above i don't see any black box.
08-19-2006 | 07:12 PM
#20
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Posts: n/a
no i discarded of it long long ago.
look at the plugs. in stock setup there are two wrapped around in black rubber and some other stuff.
i am not aware of any changes to the sub design so i dont know what to tell you. the black box is maybe 2x1 inches and it was pretty well shoved somewhere in there. you will probably never see it unless you pop the sub out and look.
look at the plugs. in stock setup there are two wrapped around in black rubber and some other stuff.
i am not aware of any changes to the sub design so i dont know what to tell you. the black box is maybe 2x1 inches and it was pretty well shoved somewhere in there. you will probably never see it unless you pop the sub out and look.
08-26-2006 | 08:41 PM
#23
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 11
I must be the only person here with a fully working Bose system in my 5th gen.I get great play back from homemade cds.Maybe I just got lucky.I get fair thump and no trunk rattle.
Yeah the bass doesnt shake windows down the block, but I'm adding a pioneer 12" sub and 380watt amp.
That should add a little low end.
Yeah the bass doesnt shake windows down the block, but I'm adding a pioneer 12" sub and 380watt amp.
That should add a little low end.
08-26-2006 | 10:34 PM
#24
^ Yeah, screw the Bose sub... Mine has never worked, except for a few (<5) times for a few seconds. Here's a pic of the "black box," only one I could find conveniently. It's underneath the black form.
Mine has never worked, except for a few (<5) times for a few seconds. Here's a pic of the "black box," only one I could find conveniently. It's underneath the black form.
08-26-2006 | 10:56 PM
#25
Hahaha^ Nope, definitely don't have that on my unit. Must have been fazed out for 2001. I took my sub appart and soddered the power and ground connections which seems to have made a little difference (bass stays on longer before cutting out). What's funny is that if I beat on the sub with my hand after it's cut out it works again...
08-31-2006 | 08:04 PM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
Originally Posted by † ErV †
here is how mine is plugged in after the black box (whatever it does - i am not going to argue, do not care what it does, do not care why it is there) died on me and caused the sub to cut out intermittently:
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
the cable from the car plugs in straight into the sub after you take the cable in between them out.
like so
fits right in...
i've had it this way for over 2 years now. i had to do some wire untangling to get to it i think but it's not that bad. you don't have to take the rear deck out. i think i just popped the bose (take the cover off, unscrew the sub and lift it from inside the car) sub out and put it back in from inside the car. easier imo than taking everything out from the trunk.
09-01-2006 | 12:01 PM
#30
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
Originally Posted by SilverGLE
^ The black enclosure on the bottom of the sub is actually the sub amp. You don't really need to replace everything Bose; just the headunit and sub.
What is the other electrical device that looks like an amp that resides under the parcel shelf (passenger side)? I thought that was the subwoofer amp...
Thanks for the info!
09-01-2006 | 07:45 PM
#32
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 64
Tell you how I fixed mine!:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=489892
Funny- the blose issue played a huge role in my solution.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=489892
Funny- the blose issue played a huge role in my solution.
09-01-2006 | 08:04 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by piglit
Tell you how I fixed mine!:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=489892
Funny- the blose issue played a huge role in my solution.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=489892
Funny- the blose issue played a huge role in my solution.
09-01-2006 | 11:04 PM
#35
What is the other electrical device that looks like an amp that resides under the parcel shelf (passenger side)? I thought that was the subwoofer amp...
09-02-2006 | 03:20 AM
#36
wow, I thought the box under the passenger side was the sub amp also, thanks for the info.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
09-04-2006 | 12:42 AM
#37
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by asianstyle
wow, I thought the box under the passenger side was the sub amp also, thanks for the info.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
Hooper, what size sub did you replace the bose one with? that looks nice, and how does it sound, I have a 10" sub that's in a box right now, I might have to try that out if it fits.
09-10-2006 | 09:25 PM
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 117
Originally Posted by Hoooper
i used an 8", but its supposedly a 900watt sub so it actually sounds pretty good. i have it tuned just right so if i want bass i can have it and can turn it way down if i dont want it just by using the stock radio. you probly wouldnt be able to get a 10 in there as the 8 is just barely small enough
09-10-2006 | 09:36 PM
#40
Originally Posted by NYPD-Arnold
Sound deadening did WONDERS to my OEM Bose sub. The bass is incredible. I've totally eliminated my plans of redoing the system.