My DTC scanner returned the following codes:

DTC P1448 EVAP CANISTER VENT CONTROL VALVE
DTC P0455 EVAP CONTROL SYSTEM (GROSS LEAK)

Any suggestion on how to deal with these codes.

Thanks,
wolfman

 

You have to replace the Vent Control Valve, about $123.00 CDN @ 401/Dixie Nissan. And while you're replacing the VCV, you will snap the first 10mm bolt that holds it to the EVAP canister. You will go back to 401/Dixie Nissan and purchase the Evap canister for $161.00 CDN. Then when you go to remove the second 10mm bolt from the VCV you will snap it too. You will then thank yourself for buying the EVAP canister becuase there is no way you will ever recover the broken bolts that hold the VCV to the EVAP canister.

You will then notice that the electrical connector release for the VCV is hidden way up on top where you wouldn't have been able to see it until you removed both components. After you have removed the five bolts that hold the EVAP canister and VCV to the underbody you should probably have a beer or three. It's damn hot and humid out there, working in the garage and all.

So now, it's late at night and you figure.. okay 5 bolts, one electrical connection and I'm done. NFW, you realise that neither the VCV or the EC have the 10mm bolts that hold the two pieces together. Go back to the Nissan dealer and hope the parts guy has a sense of humour. They are stainless steel (and they should be, given the asinine place that they are located), so you can't just go to Rona or Canadian Tire and pick them up.

My suggestion is, get both components and the two 10mm bolts with washers and replace them both.. it literally takes about 20 minutes.

 

dude...i had the same...evap problems....dealer wanted almost 500 to replace the evap canister and vent control valve...i told them i didnt have the $$$..so i waited...changed my air filter(which was pretty dirty)...and the SES light went off...its been off for over a month now....problem solved if you ask me

 

Did you check if your fuel cap is actually on? Do you fill up you gas tank yourself or you guys have "full service" gas stations?

 

Yeah,

I checked the fuel cap and the air filter, cleared the code and it came back. Only from doing those things did I have a chance to experience the joys of crawling underneath my car in the oppressive heat and humidity and swearing as I snapped the first bolt.

Although I have a 2003, I'm sure that the procedure is pretty darn close for the 2002.

As for the cause, others on the forum have suggested that it is caused by overfilling at the pump. A friend of mine has an Acura and he was told the same thing by his mechanic. I have a tendancy to "top up" after the first click; I do it all the time on my 2002 Sonoma and it also has the VCV/EV setup, I have never had to change the two on it.

Good luck whatever you end up doing.

 

been there, done that. great write-up, btw.... even if you are a Canadian...

 

I had an EVAP code at one point as well. In may case, a spider had decided to make one of the lines its home and had built up a couple of thick webs that was preventing the system from operating. Cleared those webs out, and the spider that decided it didn't like a screwdriver thrusted at it, and the problem was fixed. Lesson here is check the lines for obstructions before buying any new parts.

 

I have found if you even attempt to fill up more after the nozzle shuts off, then you will over fill. Also, I had same problems for months. I finally bought an $8 fuel cap from Autozone and haven't had a problem for over a year now.

 

A) This has been discussed several times already. Do a search.
B) Epacy: what the hell are you talking about? Please try to make sense next time.
C) This has been discussed several times already. Do a search.
D) This has been discussed several times already. Do a search.
E) This has been discussed several times already. Do a search.

 

EVAP codes, G. Same EVAP codes.
That is the topic here right.....

 

Most will tell you to replace the "vent control valve" and "evaporative canister". This will usually fix the problem since those two parts are the
most common areas for leaks. However, if you would like to try and save
some money, test your old valve and canister. I had the same 2 codes.
I removed the valve and applied 12 volts to the terminals. The valve
opened and closed (as I applied and removed voltage). The valve was fine.
With the valve reconnected to the canister, I then blew into the valve
(I had the other two inlet/outlet ports plugged with my fingers), and I could
hear air escaping. It was obvious to me that air was escaping at the seal between the valve and canister. I tightened the two bolts that hold the
valve to the canister and the leak got worse. I backed the screws out
until the leak was almost gone, and then applied some JBWeld around the
seal (with the valve mounted to the canister, I applied a bead of JBWELD to
the valve where it meets the cannister). The codes have not been back since. I assume the thin plastic canister may not always provide a good seal
for the valve. Good luck.

 

I tried ro replace "just" the VCV and, well.. you may have read my story. When trying to remove the first bolt, I barely turned the wrench and the head snapped clean off. There is no way to recover from said "incident" without repacing the evap canister as well. The bolt heads face the front of the car and get a good amount of water kicking up from the rear wheel during bad weather. And living in an area that uses salt on the roads during winter, I'd expect to have a good deal of corrosion on those bolts.


And hey.. GBAUER... thanks for the props man!!!

 

Thanks guys for all the info. maxima.org rocks!!!

wolfman

 

I have no codes showing for anything dealing with the evap canister but while filling my car up at about 15 to 20 dollars it starts pouring fuel from the evap onto the ground looks like an air vent coming off the evap canister.

 

same problem here........... all together $730!

PS. vent control valve and purge valve its the same???

 

 

That was pretty accurate.

For me, I ended up snapping off 2 of the bolts that hold the canister to the bracket. I never snapped the bolts holding the valve - 1 came out just fine, and the other just spun.

After reading all these threads about cracks and snapping things off, I figured it was best to not try prying up on the spinning bolt while turning it unless I really wanted to break the entire canister.

I sprayed some WD40 into the valve, jiggled the spring with a screwdriver, and put everything back together.......nylon ties over the bracket to hold the canister in place. I image I could buy a new bracket?

So far my EVAP code hasn't come back. If it does I'll try the $25 gas cap replacement. If that doesn't work I guess it's a new canister (and bracket) for Xmas this year!