Oil loss - diagnosis from dealership
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,055
Originally Posted by kbohip
I'm using synthetic 5W-30 Mobil 1 in mine. I've used this since I bought the car at 55k miles. Like I said before, my car right now burns about 1/2 quart every 2k miles. Not enough to make me worry yet. One thing that DID seem to help with my oil burning is changing the oil filter from Fram back to Nissan. When the Fram filter was installed, my car burned 1 full quart on the 2k mile mark. The fact that it's only burned half that now with the Nissan filter is interesting. I can't say that this was for sure the oil filter alone though as it could have been different driving, different temperature conditions, etc.
It does kind of bug me though that my wife's '91 Maxima has around 70k miles on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in that one as well, along with a plain 'ole Super Tech Wal-Mart oil filter.
I might run dead dino in my Max next change to see if the car burns less oil. I've also heard that changing over to synthetic oil can cause a car to use more oil, but only because it's cleaned the gunk from around seals causing them to leak. My car is leak free.
It does kind of bug me though that my wife's '91 Maxima has around 70k miles on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in that one as well, along with a plain 'ole Super Tech Wal-Mart oil filter.
I might run dead dino in my Max next change to see if the car burns less oil. I've also heard that changing over to synthetic oil can cause a car to use more oil, but only because it's cleaned the gunk from around seals causing them to leak. My car is leak free.
I don't have any indication that this is a problem, there is no smoke coming from my tailpipes and when I look into the hole where you add the oil it seems that the engine is coated pretty well but yet the dipstick shows nothing.
Nissan needs to address this as a factory recall issue if this is a well known and well documented problem with 3.5 engines, all of us should call NNA and complain that they need to address this with proper fixes or give us new engines that don't burn oil every 2,000 miles.
Well I changed my spark plugs today and figured out which cylinders have bad rings.
All of the plugs had oil on them but #3 and #6 were the worst. There was also a lot of oil in the intake manifold and around the valves.
All of the plugs had oil on them but #3 and #6 were the worst. There was also a lot of oil in the intake manifold and around the valves.
o, and i did get a "random cylinder misfire" code a few days ago but it went away. im pretty sure this is what caused the problem. even though it went away, i figured it would be a good idea to change them.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
leaning towards getting some good aftermarket rings.
may even do pistons and connecting rods since its gonna be open anyway.
may even do pistons and connecting rods since its gonna be open anyway.
I'm impressed!
Please keep us posted what and how you do it -- i'll be very interested to know. I'm SURE I'll be doing this myself in the not so distant future -- I have no faith that Nissan will honor my warranty -- even though I'm still WELL within mine!
good luck man.
gr
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Oil on plugs just looks like a bad seal on the vavle cover or was the oil on the electrode?
there was a lot of build up on the electrode from oil that had burned.
Originally Posted by nk2k2
maybe those two plug seals are seated properly. ive seen it happen. i had it happen to my old civic. i had the same result as you and my civic never burned oil.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 933
From: Vancouver, BC
Introduce air into each cylinder as in the leak down check and see how much air is leaking past the valves. Looks like more breather vapors are getting in 3 of the intake runners (and thus those cylinders) than the other 3, going by the color differences in the one photo. The valves look relatively clean compared to others (not the Maxi) that I've seen. I don't believe that the 3.5 has EGR.
Originally Posted by NewLoveI30
Still the general consensus that it's the timing based EGR and crumbling precats causing the problem?
If so maybe new rings and AM headers are the ticket.
Good luck with this... Those plugs look pretty nasty.
If so maybe new rings and AM headers are the ticket.
Good luck with this... Those plugs look pretty nasty.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
leaning towards getting some good aftermarket rings.
may even do pistons and connecting rods since its gonna be open anyway.
may even do pistons and connecting rods since its gonna be open anyway.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 22
I had the exact same problem with my 2k2 M6.. I thought it was the valve cover seal on that plug so I changed it.. it seemed to help but I didn't have it long enough after that to really tell.. do you see the oil at around the hole on underneath the top of the valve cover?
Originally Posted by Dust N Bones
So does that mean you are giving up in your fight with Nissan? I hope not because they are really f'in you over.
why spent possibly thousands of dollars on a lawyer for the problem to get fixed for free? its not like i would be making money.
i could just spend that money on fixing the problem (with better parts),
its not that im giving up and that i dont think i could win...its just not worth the money and time.
so wait, I'm still confused as to where the oil is coming from. Is it on TOP of the plug or was the electrode also oil-fouled? If there was oil on top, that has nothign to do with the rings being bad (although I'm not saying yours aren't because I'm sure that's the problem)
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
so wait, I'm still confused as to where the oil is coming from. Is it on TOP of the plug or was the electrode also oil-fouled? If there was oil on top, that has nothign to do with the rings being bad (although I'm not saying yours aren't because I'm sure that's the problem)
it cant be through the valve covers since those were replaced.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
the oil is getting in to the cylinder (past the rings) and then getting on the plugs (im assuming)
it cant be through the valve covers since those were replaced.
it cant be through the valve covers since those were replaced.
rubber seals on top of the spark plug, but since you're saying there is oil in the cylinder and not on top of the plugs in the spark plug chamber, that doesn't apply.
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
well if the VC's aren't installed correctly oil easily gets pased those rubber seals on top of the spark plug, but since you're saying there is oil in the cylinder and not on top of the plugs in the spark plug chamber, that doesn't apply.
rubber seals on top of the spark plug, but since you're saying there is oil in the cylinder and not on top of the plugs in the spark plug chamber, that doesn't apply.
Originally Posted by soonerfan
there was oil on the electrodes and threads as well as the intake manifold (upper and lower collectors) but not pooled up in the hole around the spark plugs (like a VC leak)
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
Yeah I am sure it was the rings. I would get HR pistons/rings, they are a lil bit lighter IIRC.
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soooner i have bad oil problems like you. ive stated that to you before. the other day i took out the front plugs and they were mint, meaning there was no signs of oil on them at all. i had someone tell me the other day that it has to do with the rear valve cover gasket. something with the rear pcv system?
Originally Posted by platinum03SE
soooner i have bad oil problems like you. ive stated that to you before. the other day i took out the front plugs and they were mint, meaning there was no signs of oil on them at all. i had someone tell me the other day that it has to do with the rear valve cover gasket. something with the rear pcv system?
that being said, a stuck valve could allow oil to enter the rear cylinders. if thats the case, its a very easy fix. just didnt work for me.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 125
I had similar problem
I was told that I was losing oil when I got my oil changed, so I took it to the stealership and they told me that they had to take my whole engine out and reseal it. They said it would be $2300 dollars. I told them to kiss my azz and took my car. Luckily I have a friend who works on cars, and he said that all he had to do was replace the PVC valve, he hooked it up, and no more oil lose. The reason the dealership is telling you about it and did not tell me is because your car is under warranty. As soon as its not under warranty and you take it in, they will give you the whole take the engine out BS. Hope this helps thanks.
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
different CR? have we figured out what exactly what the difference in size is between the DE and HR pistons?
They are NEARLY the same size. So there shouldnt a loss
How prevalent is this? Has it ever been traced back to a production date/VIN sequence? I'm interested in a 6spd '03, but I'm not paying good money for a damn oil-burning Nissan. If I wanted a crap engine/car, I'd get one from the "Big Three", I'm embarassed that Nissan would blame the owner for a manufacturing defect.
Originally Posted by 95bluse
How prevalent is this? Has it ever been traced back to a production date/VIN sequence? I'm interested in a 6spd '03, but I'm not paying good money for a damn oil-burning Nissan. If I wanted a crap engine/car, I'd get one from the "Big Three", I'm embarassed that Nissan would blame the owner for a manufacturing defect.
Im pretty sure almost every DE will
Look at the g35/350z boards much worse there. Dealers tell them its normal to lose 1quart every 2k miles
Originally Posted by soonerfan
such a beautifully designed engine all ruined by something as small as rings!!
ward should take back their "best engine award"
ward should take back their "best engine award"
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
well the rings aren't exactly small...that's a major issue that SHOULD be non-existant...it does **** me off, but hopefully both the new DE (alti engine) and the HR will no longer have this problem.
its a small part that can make the engine stop working if they dont seal.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 989
From: Levittown PA
Originally Posted by soonerfan
i meant the size is small compared to other parts.
its a small part that can make the engine stop working if they dont seal.
its a small part that can make the engine stop working if they dont seal.
Man I hope I never have this problem with my 03 6 speed. 65,000 miles and doesnt burn a drop of oil. I almost thought I was have a problem but turned out to be those cheap supertech oil filters not sealing good. Never again will I buy $2 oil filters again. Back to old reliable pureones.....
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 601
Originally Posted by alextothestars
burning oil is not a normal process for combustion.