Where Is The Write Up For Installing Rear Brake Pads+rotors?
09-03-2006, 11:03 AM
#3
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Posts: n/a
Remove the emergency brake line bracket which should be a simple bolt.
Remove two bolts on brake caliper which face the fuel tank.
Caliper should slip right off.
Support caliper so brake lines do not get kinked. (Do not remove brake lines)
Pads should just push right out. Pads are not bolted in or anything. They just sit inside the caliper brackets.
Install:
Clean and inspect caliper piston for bad corrosion.
Remove brake master cylinder cap (where u top off the fluid)
Using caliper piston tool/ratchet, ratchet piston back into caliper. If you don't do this, you will have difficulty getting one of those pads on. The pistol rotates clockwise. Front calipers just push back in, but rears twist.
Inspect rotors for grooves. They recommend you turn your rotors to prevent glazing from the new pads. This is really up to you.
Place caliper over rotor.
Bolt back on.
Install emer. brake bracket.
Done.
Remove two bolts on brake caliper which face the fuel tank.
Caliper should slip right off.
Support caliper so brake lines do not get kinked. (Do not remove brake lines)
Pads should just push right out. Pads are not bolted in or anything. They just sit inside the caliper brackets.
Install:
Clean and inspect caliper piston for bad corrosion.
Remove brake master cylinder cap (where u top off the fluid)
Using caliper piston tool/ratchet, ratchet piston back into caliper. If you don't do this, you will have difficulty getting one of those pads on. The pistol rotates clockwise. Front calipers just push back in, but rears twist.
Inspect rotors for grooves. They recommend you turn your rotors to prevent glazing from the new pads. This is really up to you.
Place caliper over rotor.
Bolt back on.
Install emer. brake bracket.
Done.
09-03-2006, 06:10 PM
#4
Good info. I always have my rears done by my buddy at his shop cause for some reason I scared to try to do the rears. The fronts are a piece of cake. Also I usually never turn the rear rotors, just the fronts.....
09-03-2006, 06:42 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Lontar1
you have to donate in order to search
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748
09-04-2006, 04:27 AM
#7
Originally Posted by VaporHead
Remove the emergency brake line bracket which should be a simple bolt.
Remove two bolts on brake caliper which face the fuel tank.
Caliper should slip right off.
Support caliper so brake lines do not get kinked. (Do not remove brake lines)
Pads should just push right out. Pads are not bolted in or anything. They just sit inside the caliper brackets.
Install:
Clean and inspect caliper piston for bad corrosion.
Remove brake master cylinder cap (where u top off the fluid)
Using caliper piston tool/ratchet, ratchet piston back into caliper. If you don't do this, you will have difficulty getting one of those pads on. The pistol rotates clockwise. Front calipers just push back in, but rears twist.
Inspect rotors for grooves. They recommend you turn your rotors to prevent glazing from the new pads. This is really up to you.
Place caliper over rotor.
Bolt back on.
Install emer. brake bracket.
Done.
Remove two bolts on brake caliper which face the fuel tank.
Caliper should slip right off.
Support caliper so brake lines do not get kinked. (Do not remove brake lines)
Pads should just push right out. Pads are not bolted in or anything. They just sit inside the caliper brackets.
Install:
Clean and inspect caliper piston for bad corrosion.
Remove brake master cylinder cap (where u top off the fluid)
Using caliper piston tool/ratchet, ratchet piston back into caliper. If you don't do this, you will have difficulty getting one of those pads on. The pistol rotates clockwise. Front calipers just push back in, but rears twist.
Inspect rotors for grooves. They recommend you turn your rotors to prevent glazing from the new pads. This is really up to you.
Place caliper over rotor.
Bolt back on.
Install emer. brake bracket.
Done.
09-04-2006, 07:02 AM
#11
Originally Posted by kobalt
What exactly bothers you with rotating the rears in?
It sucks, really!!! Pushing them back in is so much easier.
I've tried buying the rachet tools and twisting them back in, but on my last brake job, which was a 90 240sx, the tool was too big for the caliper. So, I ended up twisting them back in by hand (once again) with a set of plyers. I can't even count the countless hours I've spent over the past years, twisting in rear pistons.
09-04-2006, 12:00 PM
#12
+1 on that....
and my pistons are so effed up.. i don't think my rear right one is going all the way back in after i release the brake pedal cuz sometimes i can smell a burnt smell from that one after a long drive, so i know it's always slightly applied
any solution to that? and i don't know how to rebuild a caliper either
and my pistons are so effed up.. i don't think my rear right one is going all the way back in after i release the brake pedal cuz sometimes i can smell a burnt smell from that one after a long drive, so i know it's always slightly applied
any solution to that? and i don't know how to rebuild a caliper either
09-05-2006, 09:38 AM
#13
I believe the reason why the rear piston has to be rotated back in vs simply pushing them in is because of the way the ebrake works with the rear caliper. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong here.
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