silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Seems like all of a sudden my battery is going dead after only a few days of not using it. It makes me think it is either one of three things.

1.) Something changed in my sound system's wire (connection came loose?) and is putting a draw on the battery at all times.

2.) The alternator may be dying, and is not changing the battery completely/correctly

3.) The battery is on its way out. (Not likely, not even one year old, and it is a optima red top)

So I am leaning towards a wiring issue I guess. I am assuming that i need a volt meter, but not sure what to check? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

KabirUTA13

iTrader: (11)

take the negative lead off ur battery all the way... and then just touch the post... if it arc then u have a draw... if a teeeny weeeny tiny spark happen then u have nuttin to worry about...

phong

What you're looking for is an ammeter. Most multimeters can measure amperage, but make sure the multimeter is rated for at least 10A (and have it in the right range) or you'll damage the meter. There shouldn't more than a 1A draw on your battery while your car is off.

phong

Oh yeah, don't forget to measure IN-LINE with the positive battery lead. (i.e. disconnect the main lead, and measure from the lead to the battery post). MAKE SURE THE CAR IS OFF!!!

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

If you have a light under the hood this will also dray more current so make sure to unplug it and take the keys out of the ignition..If you have a current draw you can pinpoint the problem rather easily using process of elimination. I.E. unplugging one fuse at a time until the draw drops below 100-400 milliamps..Also, I am used to working on German cars, so I'm not sure how German specific this issue is, but you may have a higher draw for 5-20 minutes immediately after shutting down the car (up to 3 amps IIRC.) until the computers "go to sleep"

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Ahhhh, perfect information! exactly what i was looking for!

But now what if I find that there is a draw on the battery - where/how do I check first? there are so many wires and splices and solder points... it would take weeks!

thanks again guys!

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=silvermax2k2]....But now what if I find that there is a draw on the battery - where/how do I check first? there are so many wires and splices and solder points... it would take weeks!
..[QUOTE]


Not really. It's simply. Lets say you have a 3 amp draw. Yoy simply unhook your amp wire (going to previously stated stereo system) if the current draw drops below 300-400 milliamps (.3-.4 amps) then you know thats your problem. If it doesn't drop than your problem is somewhere else. Then go to your main fuseblock under the hood. Once you find which fuse has the excess draw you find out which fuses in the car that system is tied into. Unplug each of those fuses until the problem goes away. It should take an hour or two to pinpoint your draw down to a certain circuit. Once you figure that out just pull up a schumatic and see where the connectors, etc are located. Start in the middle of the circuit and work your way back or forward.

EDIT: did you make sure to check all of your connections? Is your battery mounted down or able to move around? If the battery is able to slide around even a little it will kill the batteries life. Personally, I would stop at an autozone and get the battery checked first, just in case.

ALSO: NOTE: If you are not all that famalier with amp-tests etc I need to warn you to be VERY carefull not to check current draw by grounding a high side wire or putting a low side wire to power. You could potentially screw up your computer if you don't do it correctly....an ampmeter is different than a voltage drop test because a ampmeter test actually completes a circuit thru your meter. (I.E. if you put one lead of your meter to say a 12+ volt fuse and the other side of the meter to battery ground then you just bypassed the fuse via your meter. Most meters have a built in 10a fuse that will blow, but I just want to say be cautious.

alextothestars

batteries bad. polarity is dissipating. dont get one at walmart.

phong

Unlikely. He just said it's a brand new Optima Red Top.

Mints33

iTrader: (5)

Get your battery and alternator tested before ruling anything out. You never know, it could be just a case of a bad battery. I've heard of a few instances where the Optima Red top battery just dies after less than 2 years of service.

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Awesome guys, exactly what I needed to know! My brother has a meter, when he comes home next week he is going to bring it with him. thanks again guys - I'll post again with the information I found.

carsarecool

iTrader: (1)

To be honest with you, working at autozone for over a year we took back a decent number of red tops back for warranty returns. Not an alarming amount, but enough to make me and a few co-workers change what we said our next battery would be from that to a duralast gold.

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Really? even after only a year of use? It will be one year in december.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

surprisingly..Walmart batteries FTW.
Optimas are also a good battery. The most important thing is making sure the battery is mounted properly. (not sliding around.) you're right though brands do matter. I had to replace 3 diehard batteries in 3 years in a van that sat quite often. My duralast in my mustang has lasted a year already only starting it once a month or so. It actually lasted thru the winter with only 2 start-ups. (once in December and one in early February. Fired right up both times.)

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

Do you have an aftermarket alarm on your car? I have a Viper 791xv and I found out it was causing abnormal draw on my battery. I changed some settings and the problem was solved.

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Why yes, yes I do. However it was installed the week I bought the car.. over 2 years ago. this battery issue never happened before, which leads me to think it wouldn't be the alarm. thanks for the good idea though.

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

I did this test to confirm that my alternator crapped out. Before I started the car, I read 13volts. After I started the car, it dropped in the 12s. Not sure if the alternator could be your problem but it would hurt to check it out.

getbigtony

iTrader: (1)

that is one weak way to check.. the capacitor in the ECU would probably cause that spark.
get a meter, put it on amps, disconnect either one of your terminals, place one end of the lead from the meter to the disconnected terminal connector, and place the the other end to the battery terminal

and like someone said, take in account the lights, ECU, and everything else on it

also, a trick to not disconnect the power and let the ECU repower and wait is for you to connect the lead to the battery terminal, and the terminal connector, and then remove the terminal connect from the battery so that it doesn't disconnect.
you'll have to loosen it first, but shouldn't be hard at all

PAREDLINE

Whats wrong with a walmart battery? I've never had a problem with one.

silvermax2k2

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I went out, and I bout a test light. I diconnected the neg. wire of my battery. I attached one wire of the test light to the neg. terminal on the battery, and the other wire of the test light to the neg. wire i took off the battery. the test light came on pretty dim but i could see it clearly.

Next thing I did was started pulling fuses one by one. this was taking way too long. lol. I did one row at a time, and checked the light. the light was alwasy on, and always at the same brightness. so the fuses inside the car were check. I then check the ones under the hood. (both sides) same result. and then I even disconnected the alternator, and still no change.

I took my care to a shop, and they ran a test on the alternator and the batt. they said the alternator was good. thebattery came up showing good, but only had a low charge. I have been driving on it for a 30 mins, but only has a low chrage? (granted I was bumping the stereo, but still)

SO what are my options now? I have no idea what to do.

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

I am also citing a bad cell in the battery. I would not believe it had my own OYT not crapped out in under 18 months.