Problem With Manual Climate Control
09-15-2006, 05:26 PM
#1
Problem With Manual Climate Control
My Mother in law has a 2000 Maxima with manual CC and the blower only works on high. If you set it on 1, 2, or 3 nothing happens at all but 4 the highest setting works. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
09-16-2006, 02:45 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 109
Most likely it is the resistor pack.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
09-16-2006, 06:40 PM
#7
might also be the sitch itself. Mine started to "slip" and eventually I had three speeds: off, high, and off. I replaced the switch by taking apart the council control unit and getting a replacement for a whopping $27 from nissan. It was the cheapest part I've ever bought from a stealership.
09-24-2006, 06:07 PM
#8
Originally Posted by imjd
Most likely it is the resistor pack.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
09-25-2006, 05:33 PM
#10
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 109
After some additional research I've narrowed it down to exactly what you suggested. Do you know if I can get to the blower resistor by removing the glove box or do I need to remove the dash? Thanks in advance.
You do not have to remove anything to gain access but you might want a flashlight. Get your head into the passenger side footwell and look up, as if you were looking toward the base of the windshield. Near the far right side of the car, up high behind the glove box and trim panel, you should see the back end of the blower motor. The resistor pack is mounted in the plastic plenum near to the blower and a little toward the firewall. It is about 3" lg and held with two screws at the ends. I don't think there is anything else it could be confused with. Remove the 2 screws and it will come out easily. It should take you about half as long to find it as to read this paragraph!
12-06-2006, 08:29 AM
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
Posts: 606
Originally Posted by MaxBoost925
It seems like you guys are having problems because your cars are exposed to uber coldness.
Over here where its warmer, we have no issues
Over here where its warmer, we have no issues
12-06-2006, 09:04 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 143
I believe this problem was inherited from the 4th gen:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=31
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=31
12-06-2006, 10:39 AM
#18
Originally Posted by imjd
Most likely it is the resistor pack.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
On lower speeds there are resistors in series with the blower motor to slow it down. On highest speed the resistors are bypassed.
The resistor block mounts to the plastic a/c plenum just downstream of the blower. It has 4 wires coming out of it. You can see it, and remove it, from the passenger footwell.
It's possible for it to fail due to corrosion, so maybe replacing it is all you need to do. However, if the replacement fails quickly, then probably your blower is drawing too much current and you might need a new blower motor as well.
A word of advice, the resistors need the air stream from the blower for cooling. If you try to run the blower with the resistors in still air, they will overheat if you run that way for more than just a few seconds.
12-06-2006, 10:14 PM
#19
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
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Originally Posted by Whiggy
I believe this problem was inherited from the 4th gen:
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=31
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=31
12-07-2006, 10:50 AM
#20
Originally Posted by GBAUER
might also be the sitch itself. Mine started to "slip" and eventually I had three speeds: off, high, and off. I replaced the switch by taking apart the council control unit and getting a replacement for a whopping $27 from nissan. It was the cheapest part I've ever bought from a stealership.
12-08-2006, 11:12 PM
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
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Ok so the resistor pack has the little corrosion spot where the soilder used to be, so I tried to put a bead of soilder over the bridge (like repair link says), but I could not get it to stick??? any sugestions
12-09-2006, 04:00 PM
#22
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Ok, I fixed it......
I just used the good ol Dremel with a little wire brush attachment (im sure a nail file would have worked fine) and really cleaned up the spot that was burnt, then i put a huge blob of solder connecting ther two bare metal spots.. CONDUCTION....
I just used my multi meter to check the continuity of the board, there are four flat prongs that come out from the board (where the plug goes in)
You should be able to touch one prong with your one lead, and any other prong with the other lead, and get 100% conductance.
when I pulled mine out of the car, the one end prong was not doing this, but after the massive blob of solder, it did.
Put it back in the car and now it works Great..
The best part is I didn't have to give $30 to Nissan to buy a new resistor board......
I just used the good ol Dremel with a little wire brush attachment (im sure a nail file would have worked fine) and really cleaned up the spot that was burnt, then i put a huge blob of solder connecting ther two bare metal spots.. CONDUCTION....
I just used my multi meter to check the continuity of the board, there are four flat prongs that come out from the board (where the plug goes in)
You should be able to touch one prong with your one lead, and any other prong with the other lead, and get 100% conductance.
when I pulled mine out of the car, the one end prong was not doing this, but after the massive blob of solder, it did.
Put it back in the car and now it works Great..
The best part is I didn't have to give $30 to Nissan to buy a new resistor board......
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