housecor

iTrader: (2)

While replacing the rear pads today I accidentally removed the bolt connecting the brake line to the caliper. Brake fluid began to drip out. Does this mean I introduced air into the system and therefore need to bleed the brakes?

If I do, anyone know an autoparts store that sells speedbleeders? Also, a how-to link? (search is down this morning).

EDIT>> Also, I didn't use one of the brake shims that were on my OEM pads - I read the Hawk pads have them "bulit in" and they indeed appear to. I know I used one set of shims per pad though, so apparently my OEM's had 2 shims on either the inner or outer pad. Is this normal? Also, it's a non issue that I didn't use the 3rd, right?

Jokey6577

It is recommended that you bleed the brakes anytime the brake line is removed from the caliper. You could probably get away with only bleeding that caliper since it was the only line you removed but I wouldn't risk it. I check my factory service manual and it says to bleed the right rear then the left front, then the left rear, and finally the right front.
I don't have a link to a how to for you but the process is pretty simple. It does work better if you have a helper but it can be done alone especially if you have speed bleeders.

You will need to hook a clear piece of tubing to the bleeder so you can see the air blubles in the fluid. Run the tubing to a container so you don't get brake fluid everywhere. Make sure your brake mastercylinder is full. Have your partner press a couple of times to create pressure. Then press an hold the brake pedal down. Then you will take a 10MM wrench and open the bleeder valve so the fluid flows out slowly so you can see the air bubbles then close the bleeder valve so air does not enter the system. Repeat until no air bubbles are visible in the fluid. Make sure to check you fluid level in the master cylinder so you don't run out of fluid and have to start all over.
Note: if you have speed bleeders you will not need to open and close the bleeder valve because it has an internal check valve in it that won't allow air back in. So you will open the vavle to let the fluid out and tighten down when you no bubbles are present.

Jokey6577

Also you can get speed bleeders from Summit Racing. I don't know of any regular autoparts stores that carry them. I bought sets for both the front and rear an it ran about $20. Your will want to look for Russell Speed Bleeders. Hope the info helps.

housecor

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips guys. My Haynes recommends a different order, but I don't see how order really matters - just get all 4 corners. I think I'm going to tackle the bleed without removing the wheels since there's just enough room to get a wrench on the bleeder through my 17's.

Mints33

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, removing the wheels really suck especially if you only have the stock jack and another cheap thing. I think removing the wheels and putting them back on took the longest.

I don't know how order would affect the process but, that's just me, I certainly didn't know about order when I did my bleeding job. Oh well ... next time I guess.

super6

iTrader: (5)

yup, beed em

speed bleeder.com is a great place for bleeders, i still recomend bleeding the old fashoned way with the speed bleeders, i did it both ways and the old way came out a lot tighter.