I just got my 2kse (auto) a little while ago and there are a few things mechanically that i cant figure out.

first of all, when i started the car today it started just fine, but when i backed out of the driveway and put it in drive it sputtered down the block for a while until it warmed up. what could this be? i live in minnesota, and it was just under 40 this morning, but that shouldn't be too cold for a car like this should it?

another thing is when the car is warm it has a lot of power in the low end when i first gave it gas, but up around 3-4 rmp it seemed pretty weak. i havent had this car for long enough to really know if this is normal, but from what i've seen this car seems like it should have more power. I have done some research and was wondering if this could be contribute to the MAF? or the O2 sensor? or maybe even just a new air filter? i would be willing to replace all of these but want to get a second (or preferably more) opinon first.

The last thing that did not seem normal is when i was going about 20 getting it up to 50mph it would not shift at one point until i took my foot off the gas and then it realy lurched into gear. is this the sign of a bad tranny or is it realted to any of the other problems mentioneed that might be simple fixes?


when i was researching i found these two things:


"Cold-starting problems: The engine may idle too slowly or stall when first started (below 40 degrees F). Reprogramming of the powertrain-control module is required. (2000)

Engine misfire: Bad mass airflow sensor can cause lack of power, acceleration. New MAF and reprogramming computer should fix the problem. (2000)"

on this websitehttp://auto.consumerguide.com/Auto/U...ewreliability/

..and i was wondering what you guys think and if you've had similar problems


oh and btw, maximas rock!
and i will appreciate mine much more once i get this figured out!

 

By the sounds of it you have a sensor going bad that controls both the Engine and Trans. Could even be a charging system issue.
It could be your MAF. Do you have a multimeter? If not this one is good enough for checking most stuff.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92020

Do you know anybody that has an OBD-II scantool? Another easy way to check your MAF is by reading the values with a scan tool. (Not a generic code reader)
You could always stop by a mom and pop shop and see if they will check your MAF with their scanner if you throw them a few $$.

 

alright i have a multimeter so i'll try that. anyone else have suggestions off the bat?

 

Definately your MAF- I had the exact same problem as you and a new MAF fixed everything.

 

I also have this problem...central Illinois.

what is the multimeter test you speak of?

 

i would im say 95% sure that its your maf.. i also own a 2k and i had mine go bad.. there only like 90 bucks or so.. and if its not bad it most likly will soon but i would bet anything thats it..BTW stock intake or aftermarket? >>neways..i highly suggest changing it.. easy DIY in like 20-30 mins... and you will be amazed... SEARCH theres alot on this...

 

i will definately be changing the maf then and i hope that fixes everything.

the intake is stock, but i'm assuming that when you said change it you were talking about the MAF right? just clearing this up..
thanks

 

yeah .. i was just wondering cuz if u had an element on there that u oiled up such as a K and N .. if u oil the crap outta it and stick it back in there with out it properly dried. theoretically it would mess up ur maf.. but your gunna be impressed when u change it

 

i sure hope so!

 

ya look at the maf. you may want to take it into the dealership just to see what they say. it doesn't sound like anything major though if it drives fine while warm.

 

mattj10 - you might try CRC MAF cleaner...$7 instead of $90...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=463385

It's worth a try...please post your results.

 

I did a .org search and dug up this old thread I forgot about.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=447467

 

Thanks for the link to the multimeter test, I'll try that soon. I also saw that thread about the MAF cleaner. I tried looking for some, but only found the electronics cleaner (argued to be similar if not the same). So I got that and I'll give that a shot after multimeter test, possibly a multimeter test after the cleaning if it is noticeably better.

Note: I'm also planning on inspecting/cleaning the TB. wish me well...

 

some_dude -- good luck with the testing!

Why not make the results scientific and record the multimeter readings (as opposed to the "butt-meter" tests that went on in the MAF cleaner thread!):
1) multimeter readings w/MAF in current state
2) multimeter readings after cleaning MAF
3) multimeter readings after cleaning MAF and TB

Please post the results...you might even add them to the bottom of the MAF cleaner thread...

 

i had the same prob on my 00 max it's the MAF sensor and i also get tranny probs 1st to 2nd it always kicks. what could i do ?

 

I had planned on making this a respectable investigation, measurements after each change. never trusted the butt-dyno.

However, I just tried to get an 'as-is' reading of the MAF (per the link provide above) and I must be missing something. The guy just stuck the DMM probe into the connector wire (there's foam stuff surrounding it) and got a reading. I never get a reading, and when I do that with the car on (idle) the revs drop dramatically, then return once I remove the DMM probe. Plus, I go to turn the car off and I've got an SES/SLIP/TCS OFF waiting for me.

So if anyone has any suggestions on getting readings, lemme hear it!

 

ok well tonight i went to auto zone and got the code scanned because the cel went on last night and it said "o2 sensor 1". so i will be replacing that and hopefully the maf soon as well becase it may be a combination of both.
but now since i know i have to replace the o2 sensor which sensor is considdered 'sensor 1' and where is it located? how much to replace? thanks

 

bump......

 

well its either bank 2 sensor one or bank 1 sensor one..so you need to know which one..someone correct me if im wrong...

 

yeah the guy that pulled the code said something about sensor 1 or hwatever but from the diagram of the o2's in the faq there are 2 'o2 sensor type 1's. and 1 type 2.. where on the cali spec theres 2 of each in different places. the problem is all he said was o2 sensor 1 so i dont know which '1' sensor he was talking about.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....21#post3637121

heres the link to the diagram in the faq's...
what do you guys think?

edit>>mine would be like the second pic..the fed-spec

 

well i do know that if its after your cat.. (only 1 in fed-spec) (mayb thats what he meant to tell u cuz theres only one) .. theres probally some underliying factors such as engine problems. plugs? a coil on its way out.. hence the misfires or w/e you had (sputtering).... so the O2 sensor after that cat is telling u that the fuel mix is either really rich or really lean,.. so most likly changing out the sensor will not fix the big problem? and u could have something else going wrong.. funny thing is.. i dont know where to go from there for advice.. because im fed spec also and i have that same exact prob right now myself.. so let me know how it goes for you.. ( changing the sensor is the logical idea.. but if something is wrong its just going to throw a code for it again you know?)

>>> i know ther are people more educated about this then me so someone want to fill in the gaps where i missed

 

he probly meant bank 1, which is the back bank. its not the rear sensor because that only monitors the cat functions so i would guess its the rear bank upper sensor.

 

well i'll try to replace the sensor hooper was talking about because thats the one that i assumed the guy was talking about so i'll go that route but i'll definately let you know how it goes

 

have you fixed your MAF cuz that is your prob.. the sensor is just telling you that something is wrong.. (IE) air fuel ratio...(IE) MAF is not letting enough air.. or reading the air wrong and telling the comp to use a improper amount of fuel..causinf the a/f mix to be off causing the exhaust to be rich (extra gas) or lean(extra air) .. i mean you could have a bad sensor sure.. but if your having idle problems and power losses in the 3-4K range.. u better get a new MAF..just my .02 ,.. im not saying dont change the O2 im saying fix your MAF as well..g/l...im sure you have noticed bad gas MPG no?

 

usually 02 sensor means oxygen sensor, not MAF sensor

 

< was that directed to me?> im aware of that . . . if you look at the OP you can see his symptoms. . . he was having problems in the 3-4K range. . he said at 50mph the tranny didnt want to shift. . .he said the car was sputtering..he said it idled funny... if he has a bad O2 that would not lead to those symptoms.. also he only said sensor one.. which 2 of those exist and different locations so assumptions can be made but thats about it...im just trying to help him out so when he changes the sensor and his car still wont accelerate between 3-4K and he thinks he has "tranny" problems he will know its the MAF .. thats all . .

 

alright thanks guys. i'm getting a new maf as well as an pxygen sensor so thanks for the help!

-matt

 

Ok, so since I never got any clarity/impetus to get a DMM reading on the MAF, I went ahead and cleaned it with the CRC Electronics Cleaner. The wire seemed rather dirty, kinda subjective. I also took a peek at the TB and it looked real good so I didn't touch it. Reassembled and took it for a spin. Felt A LOT better response immediately. It has never driven this well (37k, bought at 24.5k). Since then I have cleaned up the battery connections as well. I've put on 250 miles and it still drives magnificantly, also record highway miles.