Does anybody know what that stuff for cat is? Does it fix anything or just full the O2 sensors? I had my car at Nissan and they said that they checked the cat and the computer and the cat is in fact broken and needs replacing. Not sure how much of that was true, about them actually physically checking the cat, and not just going by the code.

Anyway, I got a similar bottle at StraussAuto. The can just said "Catalytic Converter. Gets rid of the rotten egg smell". My car tech advised me to get this, put in the tank and drive at high revs for about a 100 miles. Then reset the computer by unplugging the battery overnight. Did that, 350 miles later, still no check engine light. I need to get my inspection done before the end of the month, hope that passes.

 

Does the bottle actually "fixes" the Catalytic Converter or just simply hides the problem for future preference?

I fixed my P0430 by replacing the cylinder 3 ignition coil ...

 

I passed the inspection today in NJ. The guy opened the hood and immediately closed it. Wonder what he was looking for.

 

probably the o2 simulators because they are pretty common now. was ur car stock?

 

I've had that code stored ever since I got my car in August (who knows how long before that). The scanner shows "P0430 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (bank 2)". But I don't have the rotten egg smell that I read about. I'm trying to find out if you guys get that smell at all times, only when idling, when moving or if it happens at any other particular moment. Also if you get that smell while inside the car or outside.

 

I don't think that the guy was looking for the o2 sensor, the hood went up and down in a continuous motion, 3 seconds tops. I could have had hamsters in a wheel there in place of the engine, the guy would not notice.

Nelsito, I have not had the smell. Before you shell out $ for new cat or even o2 sensor, try what I did. Get a bottle of Catalytic Converter cleaner (the one I got is sold at StrausAuto, and the bottle didn't even say "cleaner", just mentioned smell. I'm pretty sure any car store has at least one type of cat cleaner fluid). Fill up the car, pour in the bottle, and drive for about 100 miles or so at high RPMs. I drove to work for two days in 3rd gear at 60-70mph. Make sure not to fill up the tank till you're almost empty. When you refuel, disconnect the positive cable from the battery and leave overnight.

Hope that helps, I haven't had the code come back for 500miles so far.

 

I found a recently rear-ended 01 cali spec max at a junk yard (pull-a-part) and pulled the bank 2 precat, and both of the bank 2 o2 sensors. the plan was to replace my bank 2 rear (after cat) o2 sensor, and if that didnt get rid of the code, then to replace the precat. Just replacing the sensor fixed it though. looks like i fixed mine for under $30...sweet.

 

As stated several times throughout the thread, the guy wouldnt be looking for an o2 sensor under your hood, he'd be looking for an o2 SIMULATOR, like the one pictured below...



Also, that cleaner you used was prob just a temporary fix, until the sensor finally gives out.

I replaced mine 14 months ago, installed a Cattman y-pipe (eliminate pre-cat), and cleared the code, and its not been back in well over a year now.

 

I did install a brand new O2 sensor, that's when I started getting P0430. So my sensor is new and working. Does the liquid just generate some gas that fools the sensor.

As far as looking for simulator, I have one (not installed), and it's pretty small. No way he could notice something like that so quick. Anyway, why he opened the hood doesn't matter, so I take my question about it back :-)

 

Look at the picture, you can see it very clearly...

And it only takes a second to find for a mechanic who knows what to look for.

 

You can see it very clearly if you install it right there. You can install it anywhere along the wire between the computer and the actual sensor. I was thinking of installing it somewhere half way down to the sensor, for that same purpose. In any case, hopefully I won't have to, so far no check engine light.

 

I bought a 2001 Nissan Maxima a couple months ago AS IS and I have been having problems with it since I bought it. Now I am due for an inspection and my car won't pass. I went and had a diagnostic and I got a PO430 code and the mechanic wants $2000. I don't have that kind of money... The dealership is saying its my car and its my problem now. I need HELP!!!!

 

Hey all that have had or still have the P0430... I've had this for a long time and have just ignored it since my state doesn't do emission testing any longer. Both last year and this year during the winter, when it first gets down to 0 degrees outside, the MIL/SES turns off.

I've been stumped by this... could be switching from summer to winter fuel blends at the refineries/gas stations... could be the sensors are reading colder and way more oxygen rich air... could be the cold air causing the catalyst to be able store more and thus its more efficient... I'm stumped, but the light is off. I expect it to turn back on once the weather warms up a few degrees again.. curious if anyone else has had this experience?

 

Well, this is an old thread.

I fixed mine by replacing the precat. I have a 2000 cali-spec.

Here's the info about the pre-cat I bought:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...xes-p0430.html

 

Same here (although mine was a P0420). I bought a pair of used pre-cats from a fellow .org member who installed headers on his car at 60k miles. My old pre-cats were definitely coming apart. Not only is the code gone but it appears my old consumption is now less.

 

I have an '01 with CA emissions....I'm in Massachusetts. I got the P0430 code in August and then, after 3-4 weeks, it cleared itself. Of course, it cam back in October. Swapped the O2 sensor ($87)...no fix. Bought the Eastern Catalytic precat from AutopartsWarehouse ($175) but then couldn't get the top bolts off and I snapped one. Brought it to a mechanic I know who spent several hours, and numerous bits, drilling out the old bolts ($450). They become very hardened from the constant heat treatment they receive. Finally, no code. Total repair = $712!!!

 

The DMV in NJ didn't seem to notice my o2 Simulator

 

Spark plug anti-fouler; google it.
If you want fancy, google ebay stainless OhTwo extender.

- Vikas

 

I live in California and I am the original owner of a 2000 SE (purchased in Cali) with 79k miles and just pulled a P0430. Many people seem to have mixed results replacing the oxygen sensors, pre-cat or both. Unfortunately, there does not appear to be a consensus on the fix.

Is there way to diagnose if the pre-cat is bad? I noticed a fairly strong exhaust smell when starting up the car and it has been a bit sluggish recently, which makes me suspect the pre-cat.


Why is the eastern pre-cat (above) not allowed in California? If I have one shipped to my friend in Oregon and then install it in my car, would this part affect its ability to pass a California emissions test (assuming I can also clear the code)?

What is the California alternative? Am I limited to a $400+ Nissan part?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Dave

 

I don't really know how to test a pre-cat.

That's very interesting that it's not allowed. My car is cali-spec. I'm not sure if it would pass in California, I'm not familiar with their emissions guidelines.

 

As if anyone were wondering, I can confirm that simply replacing the bank 2 post-cat sensor is not guaranteed to work.

 

Not sure on the pre-cat testing. Honestly, I don't think there is any physical difference between pre-cats for Cali emissions and ones that cannot be sold in California. It has something to do with the CARB board in Cali. There is probably another manufacturer fee for any manufacture who wants to be "certified" Cali for emissions parts.

F-California...this state is becoming so retarded with all of the regulations; environmental and otherwise. Can't wait to see Brown put this state in a bigger hole than it is already....ugh.

I would suggest you check junkyards to find a used pre-cat. To ride my P0430 I ended up obtaining a used pre-cat...got lucky.

 

The best way to solve the P0430 if you have a Y-Pipe is just to replace the main cat with a $1,000 OEM stock cat not an aftermarket one. You may be able to get a discount through Dave B. I did use an 02 sim for awhile until the cat finally went. Cali is every 2 years for smog and the cat went out in 2010. 10 year cat not bad.

 

Or get an aftermarket one from Eastern or others. I'm running one and don't have an issue. $189 for the precat, main cat is probably 2-300.

 

Same here...I have an aftermarket main cat and I still passed the Cali smog, although by a thread.

 

I just fixed mine. I tried the replacing the O2 sensor trick but it had no effect. Then I tried an Eastern Catalytic Converter but my mechanic couldn't get it to work with the OEM gaskets (this is a long thread somewhere discussing this... I would not suggest getting one!). Instead I got a Bosal from Rock Auto and it worked great with the OEM gaskets. So far, no CEL. I believe the Bosal was $215. Not too bad for non-CA folk.

 

That's because the Eastern has built in permanent gaskets, none are necessary.

 

Thank you so much for this now I don't have to go looking all over the internet for the answer

 

Eastern Cat solved the problem (~185 shipped) and tried to install myself with an impact wrench, pb blaster, etc. Huge issue getting that thing off! Paid $275 to have it drilled out and put on by a shop. A little over $400 total, still less than the >$1000 the shop wanted originally.

 

^^

 

Hey guys, posted on some of the other posts but didnt know the code. Now I do . 2k SE maxima a/t rough idle throwing P0430 code. The rear 02s were replace about a year ago. I had this problem once with another car, ended up gutting the cat and throwing a Sim on, car ran awesome afterwards. So Is there a sticky or post it on which sim to get and how to do the heater core resistor mod.

 

Where'd you get the Eastern Cat? Can I have a link?

 

I got mine from http://www.performancepeddler.com/

Call them and ask for the maxima forum discount.

 

Just dumped the CRC Guaranteed to Pass Emissions Test Formula stuff in my car. No wonder the place I bought it from didn't have the car inspected-although it didn't have any codes when I bought the car and all monitors were ready, but if the car had been inspected, it wouldn't be a big deal. Didn't notice the inspection sticker had expired in December so now it is a big deal. First 250 miles, no codes. Added some Seafoam to the gas tank since I have no idea when that was last done and 100 miles later, P430. Reset it, 50 miles later, same code. Now after checking in the morning, pending P430. If the CRC stuff doesn't work I'll do the spark plug non-fouler trick until I decide whether to replace the pre-cats, gut them and use O2 sims or shell out the $$$ for headers.

 

If CRC does not work, you might want to try Cataclean. Amazon and some NAPA stores carry it. My local NAPA does and when I asked him if it really works, he said he sold many to satisfied customers. Personally, I think it might be snake oil but you might want to give it a shot for the ORG sake :-)

- Vikas

P.S. Who just totaled his Maxima? Wasn't that you? I am confused!

 

My other Maxima was totaled by a repeat drunk driver. He was arrested for DWI-felony repetition, which means he has been convicted at least twice in the past for DWI. Scumbag was at .216 BAC.

 

Sorry about the totaled max.

I haven't tried the snakeoil yet and am leaning toward O2 sim. Anyone have recomendations (pros and cons generally or specifically)?

I am seeing:

http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/mini-cat-cel-fix.html

http://www.o2spacer.com/

http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php?main_page=product_reviews&cPath=1_9&prod ucts_id=9&number_of_uploads=0

The electrical seems a lot more involved (for me anyways).

Thanks.

 

Solve mine by putting two cans of Seafoam in a full tank of Shell Premium. Reset the code after the next time I filled up, it has been 9000 miles now (all with Shell Premium) and no codes, no pending codes.

 

Seems like Seafoam caused my problem. First 250 miles code free, since Seafoam, I can't go 40 without at least a pending code related to either the precat or the secondary O2. Hope once I burn through this tank all the crap is cleaned out and maybe it will all be okay.

 

Anti-fouler is the solution but it is like cheating. Try some snake-oils before resigning and putting anti-fouler. Certainly, do NOT go the way of electrical simulator. That is just retarded given anti-fouler has proven history and is cheaper and dead simple to do. Pick up a stainless steel anti-fouler on ebay.

- Vikas